FROM 

A 
PILGRIM 


MYRA  ALBERT  WIGGINS 


SALEM,  OREGON 


LETTERS  FROM 
A  PILGRIM 


MYRA  ALBERT  WIGGINS 


COPYRIGHT  1904 

STATESMAN  PUBLISHING  Co. 

SALEM,  OREGON 


On  March  8,  1904,  the  North 
German  Lloyd  Steamer  GROSSER 
K.URFURST  steamed  out  of  New 
York  Harbor  carrying  about  830  del- 
egates to  the  World's  Fourth  Sunday 
School  Convention  which  met  in 
Jerusalem,  April  17  to  19. 

The  writer  and  her  friend,  Mrs. 
Charles  A.  Park  of  Salem,  Oregon 
were  among  the  number,  and  the 
following  letters  are  a  part  of  those 
written  to  the  family,  and  published 
in  the  Daily  Oregon  Statesman. 

The  reader's  forbearance  is  craved 
on  account  of  unavoidable  errors  in 
these  hurriedly  written  letters. 

SALEM,  DECEMBER,  1904. 


ON  THE  ATLANTIC 


LETTEB  NO.  1. 


STEAMER  GROSSER  KURFURST,  ONE  DAY  OUT  FROM 
NEW  YORK,  WEDNESDAY,  MARCH  9,  1904. 


E  HAVE  NOT  MISSED  a  meal  yet,  al- 
though we  have  felt  better  in  our  lives, 
but  we  had  a  poor  start  yesterday.  We 
landed  at  the  dock  at  1  o'clock  and  I 
had  to  see  to  my  own  baggage  and  so 
many  other  things  that  it  was  3 
o'clock  before  we  knew  it  and  we  had 
had  nothing  since  breakfast.  Then  our 
friends  began  to  arrive  and  we  soon 
felt  so  faint  that  a  friend  of  Mrs.  Park 
went  ashore  and  bought  us  some  lem- 
ons, oranges,  cheese-crackers,  and  soda 
crackers,  so  about  3:30  I  ate  a  little. 

"The  pier  is  about  three  blocks  long 
and  my  trunk  was  clear  at  the  other 
end  of  it,  and  in  the  rush  every  one 
was  after  the  men  with  hand  trucks. 
The  big  Dutch  baggageman  scolded  me 
because  my  berth  number  wasn't  on 
the  trunk;  however,  he  called  a  man 
to  take  it,  but  the  man  couldn't  find  a 
truck,  then  up  stepped  another  man 
who  had  been  looking  after  me  a  little, 
put  the  trunk  on  his  shoulder  and  car- 
ried it  all  the  way  to  the  stateroom.  I 
woudn't  have  had  my  trunk  if  I  had 
not  gone  for  it,  in  spite  of  the  fact  that 
a  brass-buttoned  man  on  board  told  me 
that  it  would  be  brought  on.  I  heard 
one  lady  say  that  her's  was  left.  Mrs. 


On  th»  Atlantic. 


Park's  friend  attended  to  her  trunk  in 
the  morning. 

"We  have  had  our  supper;  have  first 
sittings  in  the  forward  saloon  and 
everything  is  lovely;  eight  or  nine 
course  dinners,  with  orchestra  accom- 
paniment. 

"Mrs.  Park  and  I  are  writing  in  the 
ladies'  saloon,  which  is  over  the  for- 
ward dining  room,  with  a  large  opening 
in  the  center,  and  the  orchestra  is  right 
at  our  elbows— the  largest  horn  not  two 
feet  from  my  ear.  They  played  a  med- 
ley of  our  national  airs  and  every  one 
applauded.  Tonight  at  supper  just  be- 
fore beginning,  Mr.  Jacobs,  the  singer, 
stepped  forward  and  led  in  the  Doxol- 
ogy  and  everybody  sang;  it  was  beau- 
tiful. The  walls  in  this  room  and  the 
one  below  are  covered  with  tapestry, 
and  the  halls  are  solidly  carved. 

"Mr.  E.  K.  Warren,  the  head  of  the 
cruise,  and  Mr.  Jacobs  (the  singer  who 
was  with  Moody)  sit  at  the  table  next 
to  ours,  so  their  faces  are  very  familiar; 
but  there  are  hundreds  that  we  have 
not  yet  even  seen.  It  is  often  like  a 
mob  in  the  hall  near  the  bulletin  board 
and  mail  boxes.  I  looked  over  the  mail 
again  after  breakfast  and  there  was 
nothing  for  me;  I  went  back  in  an  hour 
and  there  were  three  letters. 

"We  can  scarcely  make  ourselves 
understood  to  the  stewardess  and  minor 
officers  aboard;  they  speak  German 
only. 

"There  are  fifteen  pieces  in  the  or- 
chestra; they  just  now  played  'Swanee 
River'  and  'Old  Black  Joe,'  and  they 
seemed  so  pleased  when  every  one 
fheered. 

' '  Our  steamer  chairs  are  on  the  broad 
upper  promenade  deck.  Our  stateroom 
is  among  the  best;  but  yesterday  they 
pyt  another  lady  in  with  us  and  we 


On  the  Atlantic, 


were  so  disappointed,  foi  we  hoped  we 
would  be  alone. 

"We  just  found  out  today  that  we 
can  send  our  trunks  back  to  New  York 
for  storage,  from.  Villefranche,  and  we 
may  tour  the  continent  with  the  crowd. 
Clark's  man  rather  wanted  us  to  leave 
the  party  at  Rome,  but  I  stuck  to  Ville- 
franche and  he  smiled  and  said  it  was 
all  right.  When  I  was  having  the  argu- 
ment with  him  over  the  Damascus  trip, 
Fan  was  standing  near  with  Lueile  and 
she  whispered  in  my  ear  and  said,  'just 
wait  a  minute,  Myra,  till  we  go  off  in 
a  corner  and  swear  for  you;'  but  I 
gained  my  point  and  so  did  the  next 
pilgrim  who  followed.  We  will  sign 
for  the  Jericho  trip  the  last  of  the 
week. 

"I  forgot  to  tell  you  about  the  crowd 
on  the  end  of  the  pier  when  we  steame.d 
out.  It  was  'enormous'— that  Is  all— 
and  the  crowd  of  visitors  aboard  before 
we  sailed  was  two  or  three  times  the 
number  of  passengers.  I  had  to  go 
ashore  and  stand  to  meet  my  friends, 
then  we  managed  to  get  aboard  and  go 
over  the  boat.  We  have  explored  all 
the  decks,  but  haven't  found  the  aft 
dining  room  yet;  however,  it  is  there 
somewhere. 

' '  We  had  our  salt  water  bath  this 
morning,  and  will  sign  for  one  every 
morning;  we  had  to  take  it  at  6  this 
morning,  then  we  lay  down  and  ate  >.n 
orange  and  dressed  just  in  time  for 
breakfast,  which  was  at  7:30. 

"There  are  very  few  young  people 
on  board  and  a  great  many  old  people — 
some  such  fine  looking  men.  There  is 
one  nice  old  gentleman  at  our  table 
that  Mrs.  Park  and  I  fell  in  love  with 
at  first  sight;  we  always  greet  each 
other,  but  I  haven't  found  out  yet  who 
he  is.  There  are  two  little  boys  on 


On  the  Atlantic. 


board,  and  one  girl  a  little  older.  They 
are  all  the  children  I  have  seen.  , 

"They  have  just  had  a  short  service 
of  song  and  prayer.  There  was  to  have 
been  a  lantern  show  tonight,  but  they 
couldn't  get  ready  for  it.  Everybody 
is  happy;  that  is  almost  everybody.  Of 
course,  a  number  are  sick.  I  must  go 
to  bed  now,  so  will  say  good  night  till 
tomorrow.  There  is  a  gay  crowd  out- 
side singing  all  evening,  and  until  the 
service  a  crowd  in  the  dining  room 
playing  pit,  others  upstairs  here  I  think 
were  playing  'flinch.' 

"We  had  the  opportunity  tonight  (if 
we  understood  the  bulletin  aright)  of 
sending  a  wireless  telegram;  did  not 
inquire  the  expense  as  we  are  headed 
for  Jerusalem  and  must  economize. 

"Friday.— Yesterday  the  sea  was 
quite  rought,  but  we  were  going  with 
the  wind,  which  saved  us,  as  otherwise 
the  waves  would  have  swept  over  the 
deck,  so  the  captain  said.  A  crowd  of 
us  went  out  on  the  point  of  the  ship — 
the  prow — so  that  nothing  was  in  front 
of  us  and  the  sensation  cannot  be  de- 
scribed. We  sank  into  the  hollows  made 
by  the  waves  and  then  rose  up  fully 
twenty  feet  until  the  curved  part  of 
the  vessel  underneath  was  out  of  water. 
I  imagine  T  would  feel  about  the  same 
way  on  a  flying  machine.  We  have 
been  busy  all  day  with  side  trip  tickets. 
The  first  Galilee  and  Samaria  trip  was 
all  taken  before  we  reached  New  York, 
so  we  took  the  one  with  the  Damascus 
rrowd.  Different  people  have  advised 
Mrs.  Park  not  to  try  to  take  it;  so  she 
traded  her  ticket  today  to  a  man  for  a 
Galilee  ticket  (carriage  ride  to  Sea, 
Nazareth,  etc.,  about  four  days,  $30). 
Although  tho  Evangel  published  that 
last  itinerary  for  one  continuous  trip,  I 
have  just  discovered  that  it  will  be  im- 


On  tHe  Atlantic. 


possible  for  me  to  take  any  side  trips 
about  Jerusalem,  including  the  Jericho 
trip,  for  the  Damascus  Galilee  trip 
lands  us  in  Jerusalem  the  day  before 
the  convention,  and  we  all  leave  th« 
day  after  the  convention.  I  saw 
Clark's  man  a  few  minutes  ago  and  he 
said  I  couldn't  take  the  Jericho  trip 
unless  I  went  on  Sunday  and,  of  course, 
I  would  not  do  that,  and  couldn't  be- 
cause it  takes  a  day  and  a  half.  After 
studying  a  little  book  of  side  trips, 
which  is  out  of  print  now,  I  find  that 
this  Galilee  trip,  which  you  did  not 
know  about,  is  almost  as  desirable  as 
the  long  trip,  and  lands  us  in  Jerusalem 
in  time  for  all  side  trips;  but  this  Gal- 
ilee trip  is  all  full,  too,  so  I  have  just 
posted  a  notice  to  trade  the  $60  trip 
for  the  $30  one,  as  Mrs.  Park  did  this 
morning,  and  I  think  I  will  be  able  to 
do  it.  We  have  had  such  a  time  about 
these  side  trips.  We  are  going  to  have 
a  lecture  on  Palestine  tonight  and  they 
are  quiet  now  so  will  close  this  letter. 

"Saturday  evening,  March  12.— I 
have  been  busy  again  offering  my  Sa- 
maria ticket  for  sale.  As  Mrs.  Park 
says,  we  are  becoming  the  most  popular 
ladies  on  board,  judging  from  the  num- 
ber of  gentlemen  callers  we  nave  had. 
I  am  offered  the  trade,  and  a  bonus 
now,  by  one  handsome  young  minister, 
but  as  I  do  not  wish  to  make  anything 
out  of  it  I  will  not  trade  till  I  get  just 
what  I  want.  There  is  a  No.  5  and  No. 
6  short  Galilee  trip  and  Mrs.  Park's  is 
No.  5,  so  although  I  have  had  a  num- 
ber 6  offered  me  I-am  waiting  for  a  No. 

5  so  that  I  may  go  with  Mrs.  Park.   No. 

6  goes  the  next  day,  so  if  I  cannot  do 
better  I  will  take  No.  6.     I  posted  my 
notice  last  evening  and  placed  the  hour 
of  meeting  at  10  this  morning,  but  we 
had  scarcely  reached  our  room  last  eve- 


On  the  .Atlantic. 


ning  when  one  man  came  and  later  an- 
other one;  then  today  I  have  had  four 
more  offers. 

"We  have  met  some  lovely  people; 
we  all  exchanged  cards  at  our  table  to- 
night. 

"I  told  on  Mrs.  Park  today,  so  she 
has  to  teach  a  class  tomorrow,  and  she 
has  been  busy  studying  her  lesson  this 
afternoon. 

"At  2:30  the  Cruise  Chorus  had  a 
practice— and  a  good  one  too— led  by 
Mr.  Jacobs.  He  is  a  very  large  man 
with  a  big  sympathetic  voice,  and  he 
sings  with  so  much  expression  too,  and 
he  believes  in  the  whole  choir  doing 
the  same.  Each  delegate  has  been  pre- 
senttl  with  a  hymn  book  and  Manual 
of  Worship,  with  gilt  edge  and  bound  in 
soft  black  leather,  something  which  we 
may  keep  all  our  lives  as  a  souvenir. 

"We  just  heard  tonight  that  there 
are  804  passengers  on  board  and  385 
persons  running  the  boat,  including  the 
stewards.  You  know,  of  course,  that 
we  have  no  steerage  and  that  accounts 
for  the  printed  statement  that  there 
are  less  than  one-third  the  usual  num- 
ber of  passengers.  They  handle  the 
immense  crowd  perfectly,  and  I  have 
yet  to  hear  the  first  discourteous  word. 

' '  I  loaded  up  my  new  camera  today 
and  am  using  up  a  six-exposure  film 
t--»  try  it.  I  snapped  a  picture  of  Dr. 
Jessup,  an  old  white  haired  man  who 
pave  us  a  beautiful  and  practical  talk 
on  how  to  behave  ourselves  in  the  for- 
oign  countries  to  which  we  are  going. 
He  was  49  years  a  missionary  in  Syria. 
He  is  such  an  interesting  talker.  He 
said,  in  speaking  of  bargaining,  that  if 
the  price  was  $100,  to  offer  $10.  He 
warned  us  while  in  Constantinople  to 
refrain  from  speaking  the  words  'Sul- 
tan,' 'Armenian,'  and  'Macedonia.' 


On  tHe  Atlantic. 


He  said  that  if  we  did  we  would  in  all 
probability  feel  a  policeman's  hand  on 
our  shoulder  the  next  instant.  This  talk 
was  last  evening,  and  we  also  heard 
from  Miss  Jessie  Ackerman  at  the 
same  time;  this  is  her  sixth  trip  around 
the  world.  I  also  met  today  Marion 
Lawrence,  who  writes  fo  the  Evangel 
and  Sunday  School  Times,  and  I  believe 
he  is  now  the  head  of  the  Sunday  School 
movement.  He  has  charge  of  tomor- 
row 's  services.  We  have  prayers  every 
morning  now  in  a  room  in  the  front  of 
the  ship  where  there  is  a  piano.  East- 
man's goods  are  on  sale  In  that  room; 
haven't  found  the  dark-room  yet. 

"I  saw  a  lady  tonight  that  I  had  not 
seen  on  board  before,  or  at  least  I  had 
not  gotten  a  good  look  at  her,  but  to- 
night T  decided  that  I  knew  her,  and 
knew  her  quite  well,  but  I  could  not 
think  in  what  connection.  When  I 
turned  to  speak  to  some  one  else  she 
disappeared.  Well,  I  just  went  to  work 
to  hunt  for  her  and  at  last  found  her 
and  as  T  went  toward  her  she  recog- 
nized me,  and  then  we  sat  there  and 
questioned  each  other  thus:  .'Were  you 
ever  in  Oregon?'  'Yes.'  'In  Salem?' 
'No,  but  in  Newburg  and  Portland.' 
Then  she  said,  'Were  you  ever  in  Yel- 
lowstone Park?'  'No.'  'In  New  Hamp- 
shire?' 'No'  Then  I  said,  'Were  you 
abroad  four  years  ago?'  'Yes.'  ,  'Did 
you  sail  in  the  St.  Paul  or  New  York?' 
'  No. '  Then  she  said,  '  Were  you  at 
Oberamergau  ? '  'No.'  'In  Italy?' 
'No.'  'In  Scotland?'  'No.'  Then  I 
said  that  I  spent  most  of  my  time  at 
The  Hague.  Then  she  said  she  was 
there.  I  mentioned  the  hotel  and  it 
was  the  same  place:!  Then  she  said,  'Oh, 
T  roni ember  yon  now;  you  sketched,' 
and  T  told  her  yes.  She  was  at  the 
hotel  a  long  time  with  me  there;  such 


1O  Oi»  tKe  Atlantic. 

a  sweet  lady!  but  our  meeting  was  so 
funny.  I  kept  saying  'but  I  know 
you,'  then  she  repeated  'but  I  know 
you. '  Her  name  is  Mrs.  Winston.  It 
seemed  so  good  to  see  one  face  in  the 
crowd  that  I  knew.  Did  I  tell  you  that 
Miss  Allen  of  Albany  was  not  aboard! 
At  least  we  could  not  find  her  name. 

"Wednesday,  March  16.— I  have  not 
written  any  since  Saturday.  There  are 
simply  no  end  of  meetings;  all  the 
states  are  organizing.  Then  there  is 
the  chorus  which  practices  every  day, 
Temperance,  Y.  M.  C.  A.,  Bible,  Photog- 
raphy, Y.  P.  S.  C.  E.,  and  other  meet- 
ings— besides  a  lecture  every  evening. 

' '  Mrs.  Park  had  some  celebrated 
pupils  in  her  Sunday  School  class  last 
Sunday— Mr.  E.  K.  Warren  and  others 
—and  it  is  safe  to  say  that  there 
wasn't  a  better  teacher  on  board.  Ma- 
rion Lawrence  was  superintendent — a 
splendid  leader,  quiet,  but  so  impres- 
sive. He  stilled  the  'multitude'  by 
simply  lifting  his  hand.  I  have  an 
order  of  the  service  which  I  will  bring 
or  send  you ;  it  was  as  nearly  as  possible 
like  his  home  Sunday  School,  and  his 
own  pastor  took  the  part  of  pastor. 
There  were  522  enroled  and  the  collec- 
tion was  just  $100.  Speaking  of  col- 
lections; last  night  at  our  lecture  on 
Madeira  a  collection  was  taken  for  the 
missions  there,  amounting  to  over  $100. 
Jusfr  before  it  was  taken,  Mr.  Warren 
stood  before  the  company  and  held  up 
a  $5  bill,  saying  that  it  was  given  him 
by  a  poor  farmer  near  his  home  whose 
income  for  a  whole  years  was  only  two 
or  three  hundred  dollars,  yet  there  was 
not  a  case  of  destitution  within  twenty 
miles  of  his  home  that  had  not  received 
liberal  help  from  him  and  in  one  case 
he  and  his  wife  had  sat  up  all  night 
on  a  train  in  order  to  save  $5  to  give 


Madeira. 11 

to  a  poor  family,  and  just  before  he 
left  he  had  given  Mr.  Warren  his 
money,  saying  that  hie  wished  to  have 
a  part  in  every  collection  that  was 
taken  It  surely  had  its  effect.  That 
Mr  Warren  (of  Three  Oaks,  Mich.,  the 
Featherbone  manufacturer)  is  a  very 
superior  man;  everybody  loves  him; 
he  looks  like  McKinley;  he  is  very 
quiet,  too,  and  has  such  a  nice  family. 
Mr.  Jacobs  asked  nre  to  sing  a  solo  at 
the  vesper  service  Sunday,  so  I  sang 
'Come  Unto  Me'  by  Major  Hilton's 
daughter.  I  have  just  come  from  morn- 
ing worship  now,  where  I  sang  'Saved 
by  Grace,'  and  a  lady  told  me  the  his- 
tory of  the  song  as  told  her  by  San- 
key.  Mrs.  Jessup,  the  wife  of  the  mis- 
sionary I  told  you  about,  played  my 
accompaniment. 

' '  Monday  in  the  afternoon  we  had  a 
talk  by  Jessie  Ackerman  on  Iceland, 
and  a  Spanish  talk  interpreted  by  an 
American  Missionary.  Land  is  in 
sight;  we  are  on  time — or  ahead  of 
time  they  say.  We  explore  Madeira 
today.  We  won't  slide  down  the  moun- 
tain (one  of  the  attractions),  but  we 
want  to  ride1  in  the  ox-carts.  They  tell 
ns  not  to  mail  any  letters  here,  but  wait 
for  Gibraltar. 

' '  Dr.  Jessup  gave  us  another  interest- 
ing talk  Monday  evening  and  Mr. 
Jacobs  a  beautiful  solo. 

"Yesterday  afternoon  we-  had  a 
lecture  on  photography  by  a  minister 
wha  is  also  a  successful  photographer 
commercially.  His  prints  sell  readily. 
After  the  lecture  the  club  organized. 
They  elected  me  'temporary  secretary, 
and  I  was  so  scared  that  I  couldn't 
even  resign,  but  I  did  afterwards,  how- 
ever. The  joke  of  it  was  that  they 
announced  me  thus:  'Mrs.  Wiggins  of 
Texas. '  T  met  Mr.  Wiggins  of  Texas 


12 Madeira. 

on  Sunday  night.  He  said  he  felt  quite 
at  home  whsn  they  announced  that  Mrs. 
Wiggins  would  sing  a  solo.  Evidently 
his  wife  flings  also. 


MADEIRA 

LETTER  NO.  2. 

STEAMER  GROSSER  KURFURST,  ON  THE  ATLANTIC, 

HEARING  GIBRALTAR,  THURSDAY, 

MARCH  17, 1904. 


OW  CAN  I  BE&IN  to  tell  you  of  Pun- 
ch"^], that  interesting  town,  so  quaint  and 
old.  We  were  all  so  happily  disappoint- 
ed in  it  It  is  by  far  the  most  inter- 
esting city  I  lever  was  in,  not  even  ex- 
cepting Holland's  cities,  although  it 
might  not  wear  as  well  as  the  latter. 
I  have  just  been  so  excited  over  it  that 
I  could  not  sleep.  Yesterday  about 
noon  we  cast  anchor  a  little  distance 
out  from  the  pier  and  then  this  im- 
mense crowd  of  800  good-natured  pil- 
grims was  taken  ashore  in  tenders  and 
smaller  boats  holding  from  25  to  50 
persons  each,  so  you  can  imagine  that 
it  took  some  time  for  this.  We  were 
cautioned  not  to  crowd,  but  when  we 
saw  a  little  space  we  slid  into  it — or 
rather  I  did  and  pulled  Mrs.  Park  after 
me — so  we  were  among  the  first  ashore. 
The  strangest  sight  greeted  our  eyes 
upon  landing.  There  stood  rows  and 
rows  of  ox-sleds  on  steel  runners.  1 
wondered  how  the  poor  animals  could 
pull  them  over  the  streets,  all  hills  at 
that,  but  when  I  had  walked  a  block 
myself  I  ceased  to  wonder,  for  I  could 
scarcely  keep  my  feet.  The  streets  are 
paved  with  small  round  stones  such  as 
we  have  at  home,  and  they  are  polished 
by  the  steel  runners  till  they  look  like 
steel  themselves,  and  yet,  strange  to 


14 Madeira. 

say,  the  grass  grows  in  between  the 
stones  so  that  the  streets  have  a  green- 
ish grey  color.  But  before  I  tell  you 
about  the  city  I  want  to  tell  you  now 
we  were  greeted  by  the  populace.  We 
had  not  anchored  till  the  small  boats 
began  to  arrive,  each  containing  one 
man  or  a  boy,  dressed,  and  one  or  two 
small  boys  almost  nude.  The  latter 
would  dive  into  the  deep  cold  water 
for  the  dimes  which  our  people  would 
throw  into  the  sea,  and  they  would  get 
them,  too,  every  time.  Others  would 
climb  up  the  ship's  sides  on  slender 
poles  held  in  the  hands  of  the  man  in 
the  boat.  Then  others  get  aboard  some- 
how and  the  deck  was  covered  with 
their  wares;  our  stateroom  doors  were 
all  locked  and  valuables  hidden.  We 
have  been  a  little  nervous  ever  since. 
Upon  landing  we  refused  the  guides 
which  were  furnished  free,  preferring 
to  see  the  town  by  ourselves  We  went 
first  to  the  Methodist  Mission,  where 
we  were  served  with  a  cup  of  tea  and 
a  piece  of  cake,  and  I  never  tasted  any- 
thing as  good,  as  already  it  was  quite 
warm  and  we  were  pretty  tired.  We 
did  not  care  to  stay  to  the  meeting  and 
it  was  packed  full  anyway,  so  I  hunted 
up  two  people  who  wanted  to  go  for  a 
ride  in  the  ox-sled  (it  is  $1  an  hour 
whether  there  are  two  or  four  persons) 
find  than  a  gentleman  and  his  wife  and 
Mrs.  Park  and  I  started  out  to  see  the 
city— nnd  it  really  was  the  start,  for, 
although  we  had  seen  the  park,  full  of 
tropical  trees  and  palms— like  Honolulu 
Mrs.  Park  saya— and  the  interesting 
buildings  near  the  mission  and  the  mis- 
sion itsolf,  which  had  such  an  interest- 
ing court,  it  was  not  until  we  had  left 
the  main  streets  that  we  came  face  to 
face  with  the  old  town  itself.  Every 
street  was  a  quaint  old  picture  full  of 


Madeira. 13 

color  and  I  wanted  to  take  snap  photos 
at  every  turn.  The  streets  are  very 
narrow  and  crooked,  and  tht  houses 
form  the  walls  of  the  street.  Every 
front  door  opens  directly  on  the  street 
and  in  the  center  of  each  door  is  an 
old-fashioned  knocker.  I  tried  and 
tried  to  buy  one  of  these,  but  failed. 
The  gardens  are  nearly  all  up  above 
your  head  as  you  walk  along  the 
streets,  but  here  and  there  a  wide  door 
opens  into  a  beautiful  court  full  of 
flowers  and  palms.  All  the  people  come 
to  public  fountains  for  water  and  they 
usually  carry  it  on  their  heads  in  such 
fine  old  jugs;  the  men  often  carry  it 
in  barrels  on  their  shoulders.  The  boys 
go  along  ths  streets  with  all  kinds  of 
loads  on  their  heads,  not  touching  them 
with  their  hands,  but  turning  their 
heads  and  laughing  at  us,  or  perhaps 
making  faces.  I  saw  two  women  with 
loads  of  chairs  on  their  heads  and 
backs,  which  would  be  considered  a 
wagon  load  at  honve.  The  markets,  too, 
are  so  interesting  and  one  of  the  great- 
est sights  of  all  is  to  see  the  women 
washing  in  the  creek  on  thB  large 
smooth  rocks.  It  is  a  beautiful  little 
stream  that  runs  through  the  town  and 
is  walled  up  with  stones  on  the  sides, 
with  bridges  across.  I  went  clear  down 
th«  steep  steps  today  to  get  a  picture 
of  the  women  and  the  white  clothes 
spread  on  the  rocks.  I  had  to  jump 
quite  a  good-sized  stream.  It  was  easy 
to  do  it  going  down  and  in  my  excite- 
ment I  had  not  calculated  on  getting 
back,  but  coming  back  I  reached  the 
spot  and  cleared  the  whole  with  one 
jump.  Quite  a  crowd  had  gathered  to 
watch  me,  and  Mrs.  Park  said  they 
w^re  speculating  on  whether  I  could 
do  it  or  not,  so  when  I  reached  the  top 
I  received  congratulations  in  Portu- 


16 Madeira. 

guese  on  all  sides— one  old  lady  almost 
embracing  me.  The  ox-sleds  are  very 
comfortable.  We  took  one  alone  today 
•—got  it  at  a  bargain  for  75c— and  filled 
it  with  our  cameras  and  wraps  and  we 
felt  like  ladies  of  'wealth  and  leisure' 
out  in  our  own  carriage.  Each  sled 
has  a  boy  at  the  heads  of  the  oxen  and 
a  man  to  keep  tire  sled  in  the  middle 
of  the  street.  If  they  meet  another 
sled  in  n  very  narrow  street  they  run 
on?  side  on  to  the  little  walks,  made 
of  the  same  material  as  the  streets, 
only  of  smaller  stones  and  raised  a 
little. 

"A  services  has  been  going  on  below 
me  and  I  could  scarcely  think,  so  fin- 
oily  I  stopped  writing  and  listened  to 
a  talk  on  Mohammedan  women  by  Dr. 
.Tessup;  he  is  always  splendid.  When 
we  went  to  the  island  (Madeira)  yes- 
terday, Mrs.  Park  and  I  took  a  lunch 
so  that  we  did  not  need  to  come  home 
till  after  dinner;  and  we  did  have  such 
a  good  time,  but  we  were  very,  very 
tired  when  we  reached  the  '  Kurf urst ' 
about  dark.  We  visited  the  little  shops 
today,  too — they  are  all  very  small — 
and  bought  a  few  little  things  for 
souvenirs.  I  have  a  postal  which  I  will 
mail  Mildred  at  Gibraltar,  as  we  were 
told  not  to  mail  anything  at  Madeira. 
Everything  in  the  town  had  a  special 
price  today;  even  postage  stamps  were 
higher,  and  we  had  to  star  in  the  dis- 
agreeable business  of  'jewing  down' 
and  even  when  we  thought  we  had 
struck  a  bargain  the  shop  keeper  wore 
a  broad  grin.  No  store  had  more  than 
two  clerks,  including  th«  owner— they 
wouldn't  holfl  :i«  v  more  We  took  -air 
lunch  again  today  and  ate  it  in  the 
park.  Beautiful  flowers  were  all  about 
us— a  whole  hedge  of  heliotrope.  W% 
were  told  to  be  on  board  at  2  o'clock 
and  we  reached  here  about  1:30  One 


Madeira. 17 

man  was  riding  in  a  sled  and  could  not 
get  his  man  to  take  him  toward  the 
pier,  but  for  meanness  or  otherwise  he 
took  him  in  the  wrong  direction  and  he 
had  to  hire  a  boat  and  reached  here  just 
in  time  to  get  aboard  before  we  sailed 
about  3  o'clock.  I  forgot  to  tell  you 
that  I  tried  to  sketch  a  little  this  morn- 
ing too,  and  Mrs.  Park  had  all  the  fun 
watching  me  and  the  crowd  around  and 
above  in  the  windows.  A  man  took  a 
snap  at  us  with  papa's  camera,  but  we 
were  in  the  shade,  so  it  may  not  be 
good.  Eastman  told  me  that  I  could 
get  all  the  films  I  wanted  aboard,  but 
for  fear  that  I  couldn't  I  bought  about 
six  or  seven  rolls  and  it  is  a  good  thing 
that  I  did,  as  I  haven't  been  able  to 
buy  a  single  roll  on  board,  but  can  get 
more  at  Constantinople.  I  want  to  de- 
velop some  tomorrow  to  see  if  my  new 
camera  is  all  right.  I  used  both  at 
Madeira.  Mrs.  Park  has  gone  to  bed 
and  I  must,  too,  so  I  may  mail  this 
without  adding  more  as  we  will  be  so 
busy  tomorrow  getting  ready  for  Gib- 
raltar, so  good  night. 

"Friday  morning,  March  18.— I  am 
going  to  fill  up  this  space  just  because 
postage  is  so  high — ray  letters  are  so 
large  and  fat  that  I  am  afraid  it  will 
break  me  up  to  mail  them.  I  haven't 
told  you  about  a  friend  of  ours  who 
sits  at  our  table— a  Mr.  Ixxrenz  of 
Dayton,  Ohio.  He  is  a  publisher,  just 
music  I  think.  He  is  a  composer  also; 
he  gave  me  some  songs  to  look  over  the 
other  day  and  when  T  get  home  he  is 
going  to  mail  me  some  copies  of  them. 
They  are  very  pretty  and  he  wrote  one 
of  them.  The  wind  is  blowing  a  per- 
fect gale  today  and  one  man  In  cros- 
sing the  low  deck  was  wet  from  head 
to  foot  with  a  wave.  I  forgot  to  tell 
you  about  my  trunk.  The  second  day 


1ft Madeira.         

on  board  I  asked  Mrs.  Park  for  her 
key,  saying  that  perhaps  you  boys  did 
not  press  it  on  the  lock  when  you  tried 
all  those  keys  in  Portland,  and  sure 
enough  it  unlocked  it  the  first  trial. 
Guess  it  just  happened  to  fit. 

"I  have  copied  a  part  of  a  mailing 
slip  which  was  sent  to  each  delegate 
before  he  or  she  left  home.  It  seems 
that  no  mail  is  to  be  sent  to  Ville- 
franche,  only  for  those  who  take 
Clark's  tours  across  the  continent. 
After  Rome,  send  mail  to  Venice,  care 
Thos.  Cook  &  Con.  (We  will  be  there 
about  two  days  I  think),  then  to  Haar- 
lem, Holland,  Paris,  London,  all  care 
of  Thos.  Cook  &  Son.  We  have  booked 
to  sail  for  home  from  Southampton  on 
June  1st  on  the  Kaiser  William  II.  We 
will  take  in  Ireland,  too,  if  possible, 
but  surely  Scotland." 


GIBRALTAR 


LETTER  NO.  3. 


ON  THE  MEDITERRANEAN  BETWEEN   GIBRALTAR  AND 

ALGIERS,  SUNDAY,  11  A.  M.,  MARCH  20,  1904. 


ETTEES  FOB  ALGIEKS  we  are  to 
hand  to  the  purser  between  4  and  5 
o'clock  today,  and,  with  church  and 
Sunday  school,  it  doesn't  leave  much 
time  for  letter  writing,  so  if  this  letter 
is  short  you  will  know  why.  Our  Sun- 
day school  is  at  2:45.  We  have  just 
listened  to  a  good  sermon,  but  not  a 
grand  one  like  we  heard  last  Sabbath. 
"We  arrived  at  Gibraltar  on  sched- 
ule time  yesterday  morning.  It  did  not 
look  as  I  expected  to  see  it— one  lone 
rock — but  connected  with  it  is  a 
stretch  of  level  ground  and  low-lying 
hills,  and  on  the  top  of  one  of  these 
low  hills  is  a  beautiful  little  city,  the 
name  of  which  I  have  forgotten,  but 
the  translation  of  which  means  'the 
Crown  of  the  Pope.'  This,  of  course, 
is  a  Spanish  city  and  there  is  another 
town  still  nearer  Gibraltar.  Between 
this  last  town  and  Gibraltar  lies  a  low 
stretch  of  land  which  is  neutral  ground 
and  not  a  soul  is  allowed  upon  it;  it 
is  guarded  on  one  side  by  the  Spanish 
soldiers  and  on  the  Gibraltar  side  by 
the  English.  Connecting  this  Spanish 


2O  Gibraltar. 

town  and  Gibraltar  is  a  broad  road  over 
which  everybody  must  pass  in  going 
from  one  town  to  another.  Some  of  our 
party  went  over  into  the  dirty  Spanish 
town,  but  the  authorities  would  not  let 
their  drivers  inside  the  gates  of  the 
city.  The  poor  cannot  pass  through 
that  gate  with  a  whole  loaf  of  bread; 
they  must  break  it  up  into  pieces  and 
give  it  to  different  members  of  a  party. 
We  saw  them,  on  our  Gibraltar  ride, 
forming  into  groups,  wrapping  and  un- 
wrapping things  and  hiding  others, 
preparing  to  go  to  the  Spanish  town. 
As  our  driver  said,  'bad  government 
over  there;  very  bad  for  the  poor  peo- 
ple.' But  Gibraltar  itself  is  very 
beautiful,  towering  high  above  every- 
thing and  guarding  the  great  Mediter- 
ranean sea.  It  seemed  almost  alive  to 
me  as  I  thought  of  the  guns  and  ammu- 
nition hidden  within  it,  for  it  was  fair- 
ly peppered  with  little  holes  invisible 
from  the  sea.  The  city  itself  is  built 
at  the  foot  and  partly  up  the  sides  of 
the  rock  and  divided  in  the  middle;  one 
half  contains  only  English  residents 
and  the  other  half  is  cosmopolitan. 
The  market  is  very  interesting;  it  also 
is  divided — the  Moors  selling  mostly 
turkeys,  chickens,  rabbits,  baskets  and 
hens  eggs,  and  the  nationalities  on  the 
other  side  of  the  road  selling  meat, 
fruit,  dates,  nuts,  etc.,  etc.  Donkeys 
are  used  for  everything — mostly  for 
'•oal;  they  go  from  house  to  house  with 
it.  We  saw  one  little  donkey  with  a 
big  load  of  wares  and  right  on  top  of 
the  load  sat  two  men.  The  women  look 
the  funniest;  they  just  sit  on  top  of 
the  load  so  comfortably.  We  were  for- 
bidden to  take  pictures  of  the  rock  it- 
self and  the  galleries,  but  I  was  so 
afraid  of  pointing  it  toward  Gibraltar 


Gibraltar. 21 

that  I  only  took  a  few  pictures  of  don- 
keys, etc.,  and  the  people  got  in  the 
way  so  dreadfully  that  I  am  afraid  the 
pictures  won't  amount  to  much.  This 
reminds  me  of  a  good  joke  on  a  member 
of  our  party.  She  met  another  membei 
of  the  cruise  on  the  streets  of  Gibraltar 
yesterday  and  said  to  her:  'I  know 
now  why  we  are  almost  crowded  out  of 
Gibraltar;  it's  the  Jerusalem  crowd 
from  that  boat  yonder  in  the  harbor.' 
You  see  she  did  not  recognize  her  own 
boat  because  she  had  never  noticed  the 
word  Jerusalem  in  large  letters  on  the 
sides,  so  she  supposed  it  was  another 
cruise  going  to  Jerusalem,  and  she  was 
quite  put  out  over  the  crowded  condi- 
tion 01  the  streets.  We  had  a  senseless 
guide  who  walked  us  the  first  thing 
over  half  way  up  the  montain,  for  noth- 
ing in  the  world  but  a  view  of  the 
harbor,  and  that  tired  us  out  for  all 
day.  Mrs.  Park  and  I  went  almost  to 
the  limit  of  our  strength.  We  would 
have  turned  back,  but  did  not  know 
the  way,  so  we  just  had  to  go.  Mrs.  P. 
couldn  't  run  down  hill  (as  it  was  she 
said  the  natives  laugrhed  at  her  all  the 
way  down)  so  at  the  foot  of  the  hill  I 
sat  down  and  waited  for  her;  then,  of 
course,  we  were  lost;  but  the  Ameri- 
cans came  in  view  at  every  turn,  and 
we  met  the  same  lady  and  gentleman 
who  rode  in  the  ox  sled  with  us  in 
Funchal,  so  we  four  bargained  again 
with  a  driver  and  had  a  two  hours' 
ride  over  the  rock  and  on  Spanish 
firround.  We  did  not  see  much  of  the 
fort  itself.  Some  of  our  party  saw 
more  than  we  did,  but  they  were  turned 
back  at  a  certain  point,  and  so  was 
the  Emperor  of  Germany  himself  at  the 
same  point,  for  you  will  see  by  the 
papers  that  he  was  there  with  us  and 
the  city  was  in  gala  dress.  Mrs.  P. 


28 Gibraltar. 

explained  in  her  letter  why  he  did  not 
call  upon  us,  so  I  will  let  that  pass. 
Our  ship  was  decorated  beautifully  in 
his  honor  and  he  was  on  a  sister  ship 
of  ours,  so  the  bulletin  announced.  A 
few  of  our  party  saw  him;  we  saw  his 
vessel  at  anchor. 

"The  first  thing  I  bought  was  a 
pretty  little  brass  bowl,  made  by  the 
Moors,  25  cents.  Mrs.  P.  bought  one, 
too.  We  like  those  kind  of  things  bet- 
ter than  the  laces  and  shawls  which 
were  shown  in  abundance  and  bought 
by  the  dozens  by  our  passengers.  At 
another  store  I  came  across  a  beautiful 
old  Morocco  enameled  bowl  with  part 
of  the  enamel  peeled  off.  Well,  I 
knew  I  would  have  to  have  that  bowl, 
so  I  began  to  bargain  for  it.  I  had  the 
clerk  take  it  down  with  a  lot  of  other 
bowls  so  that  he  wouldn't  know  which 
one  I  wanted,  then  I  asked  the  price  of 
all  of  them;  the  one  that  I  wanted  was 
$1.50.  I  told  him  that  I  would  give 
him  50c,  and  he  withered  me  with  a 
look;  later  I  offered  him  $1,  and  he  said 
no,  but  that  I  could  have  it  for  $1.75.  I 
shook  my  head  and  went  around  look- 
ing at  other  things,  and  he  kept  follow- 
ing me  up,  but  I  wouldn't  offer  any 
more  and  made  believe  I  was  going; 
then  he  ran  to  the  end  of  the  store,  got 
the  bowl  and  commenced  wrapping  it 
up  and  said  I  could  have  it  for  $1.25, 
but  I  said  no,  and  handed  him  just  $1. 
He  took  it  without  any  hesitation.  You 
see  I  knew  just  how  to  go  about  it,  as 
old  Dr.  Jessup,  the  missionary  on  board, 
instructed  us.  1  helped  drive  some  bar- 
pnins  for  Mrs.  Park,  too.  She  bought 
a  bag  for  $1,  and  the  man  asked  $2.50 
in  the  first  place. 

"Yesterday  one  of  our  party  was 
taking  a  snapshot  of  the  street,  and  the 
fort  must  have  been  in  the  background, 


Gibraltar.  29 

for  he  was  immediately  arrested.  I  did 
not  hear  how  it  ended,  but  he  must  be 
on  board.  The  sick  boy  was  left  at 
Gibraltar  at  the  hospital  in  the  care  of 
a  missionary  friend  of  his  father,  who 
came  to  the  dock  to  meet  him,  expect- 
ing to  give  him  a  big  day  of  pleasure, 
but  instead  found  him  very  ill. 

"Mailed  a  postal  to  Mildred  from 
Gibraltar,  also  one  at  Madeira,  and  I 
intend  to  do  the  same  at  every  stop. 

"We  saw  the  new  English  hospital 
on  the  Eock  of  Gibraltar  above  the 
English  quarters,  also  on  one  ot  the 
highest  points  a  signal  station.  We 
were  just  leaving  yesterday  when  they 
signaled  that  some  of  our  passengers 
were  left.  We  waited  until  their  boat 
overtook  us.  You  know  we  had  to  land 
in  large  tenders.  There  were  ammuni- 
tion stations,  too,  at  the  top  of  the 
rock,  and  boxes  of  it  were  going  up  all 
the  time  on  cables  overhead.  We  saw 
the  immense  dry  dock  (in  building)  em- 
ploying 2000  men  for  six  years  already, 
and  not  finished  yet.  I  did  not  realize 
before  the  importance  of  Gibraltar — it 
is  said  if  England  should  lose  it,  it 
would  plunge  the  whole  world  into  war. 
We  got  some  splendid  views  of  it  in 
riding  around,  but  I  did  not  dare  take 
a  picture  of  it  from  land,  as  the  soldiers 
were  as  thick  as  bees. 

"We  expect  to  be  in  Algiers  all  day 
tomorrow.  We  heard  about  it  in  sev- 
eral talks  last  evening.  Dr.  Jessup  told 
the  thrilling  incident  of  the  massacre 
of  the  Christians  at  Damascus  and  the 
Algerian  general,  Prince  Abdul  Kadir, 
living  there,  who  came  to  the  rescue. 
He  again  cautioned  us  to  be  careful  on 
all  foreign  ground,  especially  in  the 
mosques.  When  we  enter  them  we  will 
either  have  to  remove  our  shoes  or  put 
something  over  them  which  will  be 


84- Gibraltar. 

provided.  He  says  that  the  beautiful 
gheen  so  much  desired  on  their  fine  ruga 
is  a  kind  of  polish  made  by  the  bare 
feet.  No  shoe  ever  touches  them,  and 
if  one  even  mentions  a  shoe  he  apolo- 
gizes for  it.  Dr.  Jessup  is  a  very  inter- 
esting old  gentleman.  , 

"Well,  I  must  go  up  to  Sunday  school 
now  or  I  won't  get  a  seat.  I  will  add 
a  line  afterwards. 

"We  have  only  seen  one  automobile 
since  leaving  New  York,  and  where  do 
you  think  that  was?  Funchal,  that 
quaint  old  town.  It  looked  decidedly 
out  of  place.  I  could  not  tell  the  make, 
but  it  was  a  big  white  one. 

"We  had  a  large  Sunday  school  to- 
day and  a  fine  one,  too.  Mr.  Pearce,  of 
Chicago,  (secretary  of  the  national 
teachers  training  work)  was  superinten- 
dent; attendance  588;  collection  $61.06. 
Mrs.  Park  had  a  full  class  again, 
mostly  her  pupils  of  last  week,  Mr.  and 
Mrs.  Warren  among  them.  In  teachers' 
meeting  last  night  Mr.  W.  wanted  to 
know  if  they  couldn't  go  to  their  same 
classes,  saying,  'I  love  my  Sunday 
school  teacher.'  He  is  such  a  nice  man; 
however,  I  think  you  had  better  inform 
Mr.  Park. 

"I  must  close  now  and  take  this  to 
the  purser  to  mail  in  the  morning  at 
Algiers." 


ALGIERS 


LETTER  NO.  4. 


STEAMER  GROSSER  KURFURST.  ON  THE  MEDITER- 
RANEAN, BETWEEN  ALGIERS  AND  MALTA, 
TUESDAY  EVENING,  MARCH  22,  1904. 


ESTERDAY  morning  early  we  arrived 
at  Algiers,  the  French  capital  of  Al- 
geria. The  night  before  in  a  lecture  we 
heard  about  its  pirates  who  lived  there; 
they  held  sway  for  centuries.  The  in- 
habitants are  the  greatest  conglomera- 
tion of  nations  that  you  ever  can  im- 
agine; nearly  every  head  is  turbanned 
or  fezzed  and  hundreds  of  the  women 
are  veiled,  with  only  the  eyes  visible, 
costume  in  cream  color,  so  that  it  looks 
like  a  "sheet  and  pillow  case  party" 
everywhere.  The  population  is  com- 
posed  of  Arabs,  Turks,  Moors,  Be- 
douins, Negroes,  Maltese,  French  and 
Europeans  in  their  national  costumes. 
Some  of  the  natives  are  as  white  as  we 
are  and  others  are  blacker  than  the 
blackest  man  you  ever  saw,  at  least 
they  appear  so  in  contrast  with  their 
white  turbans  and  drapery.  Most  of 
them  are  very  superstitious  about  hav- 
ing their  pictures  taken  and  it  is  really 
dangerous  to  attempt  it  sometimes.  I 
tried  it  on  one  big  fellow  yesterday, 
then  immediately  turned  the  camera  on 
our  ship  lying  in  the  harbor  and  made 
it  click  as  if  it  went  off,  but  he  eyed 


26 Algiers. 

me  with  suspicion  until  I  was  out  of 
sight.  Upon  landing,  the  whole  800  of 
us  went  for  our  ride  in  open  carriages 
or  cabs  (holding  four  persons  and  driv- 
er). Where  they  got  all  the  cabs  is 
more  than  I  can  tell;  they  must  have 
scoured  the  country  all  around  for  them. 
But  it  is  a  large  city  of  70,000  inhab- 
itants. It  is  divided  into  the  old  town 
(the  Arab  quarter)  and  the  new  town 
(French).  We  were  driven  first  through 
the  streets  seeing  strange  sights  at 
every  turn,  then  to  the  beautiful  coun- 
try, a  sort  of  continuous  park  and  veg- 
etable garden  on  the  high  hills  back  of 
the  city;  we  went  to  the  very  top  and 
then  descended  by  another  road.  Wild 
flowers  bloomed  all  the  way  up.  we 
picked  some  to  press.  The  beautiful 
villas  we  passed  on  our  way  down  and 
into  the  city  were  nearly  all  named, 
either  on  the  front  doors  or  on  the  high 
gate-posts.  The  houses  are  all  tile- 
roofed  and  are  so  picturesque.  We 
stopped  at  the  Governor's  palace  and 
walked  about  the  grounds,  which  were 
very  beautiful.  The  high  walls  which 
surround  nearly  every  house  or  villa  are 
usually  made  of  cement,  and  stuck  in 
thick  on  the  top  are  pieces  of  broken 
bottles  and  glass.  We  saw  this  also  at 
Gibraltar  and  Funchal.  The  stores  are 
all  quite  small,  even  in  the  French 
quarter,  but  the  buildings  are  large, 
with  colonades,  and  blocks  in  length. 
It  is  a  great  temptation  to  buy  things; 
everything  is  so  interesting  and  cheap, 
or  it  seeme  so  to  us.  At  the  end  of 
our  drive  we  were  left  in  the  old  Arab 
quarter  among  the  cathedrals  and 
mosques.  We  went  into  one  of  the  lat- 
ter with  a  guide.  There  were  no  seats 
inside,  but  the  floor  was  covered  en- 
tirely (except  a  piece  at  the  back  where 
we  all  stood)  with  strips  of  velvet  car- 


Algiers.  27 

pet.  The  Arabs  nut  over  our  shoes,  san- 
dals or  wooden  slippers  (the  latter  just 
a  board  with  one  strap)  and  we  went 
forward  only  about  four  at  a  time  and 
it  was  too  funny  to  see  them  skating 
slowly  along,  for  we  did  not  dare  go 
very  fast  for  fear  of  stepping  out  of 
them.  This  happened  in  several  cases 
and  when  it  did  an  Arab  would  go 
"Shee-e-cee"  and  skate  over  to  the 
victim  and  with  gesticulations  replace 
the  slipper  immediately.  Away  up  in 
one  of  the  front  corners  of  the  building 
about  twenty  Arabs  squatted  upon  the 
floor;  it  was  a  class  with  a  teacher 
studying  the  Koran.  We  then  went  to 
the  market,  a  very  dirty  but  interesting 
place.  There  we  left  our  guide,  and 
Mrs.  Park  and  I  went  back  to  some  of 
the  stores  we  had  seen  in  the  old  Arab 
quarter.  Of  course,  they  were  regular 
junk  shops,  and  the  things  I  wanted 
were  antique  and  too  expensive,  so,  as 
we  couldn't  strike  a  bargain,  we 
thought  that  we  would  try  and  find  the 
French  quarter  by  going  through  the 
<rold  town"  which  resulted  in  our  get- 
ting lost.  I  could  not  think  of  the 
French  word  for  stores  to  save  me  and 
we  tried  every  way  to  make  the  na- 
tives understand,  when  finally  the  word 
came  to  me  like  a  flash  and  we  were 
sent  on  our  way,  and  only  about  a 
block  further  on  we  found  the  French 
store.  Near  there  was  a  park,  where 
we  sat  down  and  ate  our  lunch  which 
we  had  brought  with  us,  then  we  wan- 
dered again  down  to  the  old  stores  and 
this  time  struck  a  bargain,  surrounded 
by  about  twenty  natives.  Mrs.  Park 
and  I  ench  bought  an  old  brass  hanging 
"lantern"— they  called  it— for  about 
50  cents  each;  in  the  first  place  he 
Msked  $1.20  for  mine  and  60  cents  for 
Mrs.  Park's.  They  don't  drop  in  their 


28 


prices  like  the  other  places  we  have 
visited.  I  then  tried  to  take  a  few  pic- 
tures of  the  interesting  natives,  but 
without  much  success,  as  the  beggars 
were  so  "bothersome"  and  the  boys 
so  mean.  We  then  went  on  the  search 
of  some  green  jugs  which  I  saw  when 
we  were  driving  in  the  morning,  and 
we  walked  and  walked  till  we  nearly 
dropped  we  were  so  tired,  and  only 
found  one  quite  large  one;  it  was  heavy 
too,  but  I  wasn't  going  without  so  I 
bought  it  anyway  for  25  cents  and  it 
did  me  good  service  in  developing  to- 
day. Our  room  is  looking  just  like  a 
junk  shop  already,  but  I  have  made  up 
my  mind  to  buy  some  little  things  for 
my  collection  at  every  stop  and  I  will 
never  be  sorry  for  it,  as  it  will  always 
be  such  a  pleasure  to  possess  them.  I 
was  poing  to  buy  an  evening  waist 
there  (which  I  need  very  much  on  the 
boat  as  they  always  dress  for  dinner), 
but  there  was  nothing  fit,  only  very 
expensive  embroidered  ones.  The  weath- 
er has  been  simply  perfect—  at  every 
stop  and  on  board,  too;  it  has  only 
rained  a  little  in  the  night  several 
times.  This  is  our  daily  program  when 
on  board.  Bath  at  6:20;  breakfast, 
7:30;  just  a  few  minutes  in  our  rooms 
or  a  short  walk,  then  morning  prayers 
at  9;  then  a  -little  mending  or  writing, 
and  now  a  "deep  breathing"  class  at 
10:15  taught  by  Jessie  Ackerman; 
luncheon,  11:30  to  12:30.  It  takes  a 
long  time  to  eat,  as  everything  is  served 
in  courses.  The  triangle  is  sounded  at 
the  end  of  each  course  and  everything 
goes  off  like  clock  work.  We  usually 
take  a  nap  after  luncheon  as  we  don't 
get  enough  sleep  at  night  (set  watches 
forward  one-half  hour  every  night),  but 
today  I  hurried  to  my  room  to  develop 
films  BO  that  I  could  finish  by  2:30,  when 


Algiers.  29 

we  have  choir  practice.  I  developed 
two  rolls  of  film  and  was  just  five  min- 
utes late  to  practice.  Then  afterwards 
I  went  back  and  tended  to  the  nega- 
tives which  were  soaking;  had  about 
20  minutes'  rest  before  the  first  bugle 
call  for  dinner.  Got  up  'and  dressed, 
then  ate  dinner  from  5:30  to  6:30; 
went  right  up  stairs  and  began  writing 
this.  Now  the  second  sitting  is  through 
and  I  had  to  come  down  into  the  main 
dining  room  again  as  soon  as  it  was 
cleared,  to  hold  my  seat  in  the  choir,  as 
we  have  to  be  here  five  minutes  before 
time.  There  is  always  a  lecture  of  some 
kind  every  evening,  and  we  do  not  get 
to  bed  till  after  11  o'clock,  so  now  you 
know  how  busy  we  are,  but  it  makes  the 
time  pass  very  quicly.  From  now  on  we 
will  be  sight  seeing  more  than  ever, 
and  I  will  have  a  hard  time  finding  a 
few  moments  in  which  to  write. 

Mr.  Jacobs  was  planning  today  for 
the  choir  at  Mars  Hill,  Athens. 

Oh,  yes,  we  had  a  grand  reception 
last  evening;  that  is  we  all  wore  our 
"glad  clothes,"  passed  before  the  cen- 
tral committee  and  wives,  also  the  cap- 
tain of  the  boat,  shook  hands  with  all, 
announcing  our  name  and  state  and 
then  received  our  convention  badge — a 
small  neat  button  or  pin.  Mrs.  Park 
and  I  were  amony  the  first  100,  so  we 
sat  down  and  watched  all  the  rest  pass 
in  their  "glad"  clothes  and  there  was 
a  steady  stream  until  about  10:30 — and 
they  began  at  8:45,  so  perhaps  now  you 
can  imagine  what  a  crowd  we  are.  We 
had  some  witty  speeches  by  the  com- 
mittee and  others  at  the  close  and  a  lit- 
tle music.  We  are  truly  having  a  fine 
time  and  such  a  lovely  good  natured 
crowd  to  travel  with.  , 

My  films  did  not  turn  out  very  well 
today;  as  I  expected,  it  was  too  dark  in 


3O Algiers. 

the  narrow  streets  and  the  focus  on  my 
new  camera  bothers  me.  , 

I  must  close  now  so  that  I  may  mail 
this  in  the  morning  at  Malta.  We  will 
cable  tomorrow.  It  seems  just  dreadful 
not  to  hear  from  home  when  we  have 
been  gone  so  long. 

I  wish  you  could  have  seen  us  yester- 
day wandering  alone  through  the  streets 
of  Algiers  with  the  natives,  and  I 
would  have  given  a  good  deal  for  a  pic- 
ture of  Mrs.  Park  as  she  sat  on  a  bench 
in  the  park  where  I  left  her  when.  I 
wandered  in  the  square  to  take  pic- 
tures; on  the  same  bench  with  her  were 
Arabs,  negroes,  Turks,  and  regular 
tramps,  but  it  was  in  the  shade  and  I 
couldn't  take  the  picture;  however,  I 
had  a  good  laugh  at  her. 


MALTA 

LETTER  NO.  5. 

STEAMER    GROSSER   KURFURST,    LEAVING  MALTA, 
WEDNESDAY,  MARCH  2.?,  1904. 


D 


HIS  IS  THE  EVENING  of  our  day  of 
sight  seeing  at  Valetta,  Malta  (or 
M(|lita).  We  anchored  in  the  harbor 
early  this  morning  with  our  minds  full 
of  the  history  of  the  island,  having 
heard  it  last  evening  from  several  good 
speakers.  But  for  all  this  preparation 
we  were  delightfuly  surprised  witb  the 
beautiful  and  interesting  cities,  for  we 
took  the  train  to  Citta  Vecchia  (pro- 
nounced Chitta  Veckia)  really  a  con- 
tinuation of  Valetta.  The  country  be- 
tween these  two  cities  is  filled  with 
thousands  of  stone  walls  dividing  the 
land  up  into  small  bits  of  every  shape 
and  design,  like  a  crazy  quilt;  one  patch 
will  be  probably  a  foot  or  two  lower 
than  the  patch  next  to  it,  and  the  vari- 
ous colors  make  it  all  the  more  like  a 
patch-work  quilt  —  purple,  yellow, 
brown,  light  and  dark  green,  etc.  Where 
these  patches  are  uncultivated  the  large 
leaf  cactus,  like  that  of  California, 
grows  rank,  often  to  the  top  of  a  one- 
story  house.  The  buildings  are  all 
built  of  the  same  material  as  the  walls 
— a  kind  of  cream  color  stone,  which  I 
think  hardens  when  exposed  to  the  air. 
We  took  the  train  the  first  thing  for 
Citta  Vecchia,  but  there  were  so  many 
delays  that  we  did  not  reach  there  till 


32 Malta. 

after  10  o'clock,  so  we  took  a  carriage 
—Mrs.  Park,  Mr.  Lorenz  and  myself— 
and  were  driven  up  a  steep  hill  through 
the  little  old  town  to  the  great  cathed- 
ral there.  Service  was  going  on  and  the 
organ  thundered  an  "Amen"  now  and 
then.  The  cathedral  was  beautifully 
decorated  with  paintings,  etc.;  the 
chanting  was  all  in  monotone.  From 
there  we  drove  a  short  distance  to  the 
catacombs  where  Christians  are  buried. 
These  catacombs  are  more  -extensive 
than  those  of  Rome,  but  less  interesting 
because  there  are  no  decorations  or  in- 
scriptions. They  have  not  been  fully 
excavated  yet,  so  the  full  extent  of 
them  is  unknown.  The  guide  gave  us 
each  a  lighted  candle,  then  taking  one 
himself  he  led  the  way  into  the  narrow 
subterranean  passages;  we  had  to  stoop 
many  times  on  account  of  the  low  ceil- 
ings. We  saw  the  shelves  where  a 
single  corpse  had  lain,  then  a  large  fam- 
ily vault;  another  showed  a  wide  bed 
for  sleeping  on,  on  one  side  the  narrow 
rnissaee.  and  on  th«  other  a  shelf  which 
held  three  bodies — a  man  woman  and 
child;  in  another  room  was  a  baptismal 
font.  The  bodies  have  been  removed 
to  museums.  We  were  glad  to  come 
out  into  the  beautiful  daylight  again, 
for  we  were  favored  with  another  pleas- 
ant day  for  our  sight-seeing.  We  then 
drove  to  the  small  museum,  where  col- 
umns, vases  and  mural  decorations 
which  had  been  unearthed  were  shown. 
Tli is  nnrt  nf  Melita  is  th*>  old  part,  and 
is  full  of  the  history  of  the  early 
Christians,  the  knights  of  the  eight 
pointed  cross,  the  Maltese  cross.  After 
taking  a  few  snap  shots  under  great 
difficulties,  on  account  of  the  "Jerusa- 
lem" crowd  and  begging  natives,  we 
drove  to  the  station  and  reached  Va- 


Malta. OS 

letta  past  noon;  had  a  hard  time  get- 
ting something  to  eat  at  a  crowded  res- 
taurant, but  we  finally  succeeded  in 
getting  a  cup  of  good  chocolate  and 
bread  and  butter;  then  with  Mr.  Lo- 
renz's  help  we  found  the  cable  office, 
sent  our  cablegram  (the  address  and 
one  word  for  8  shillings,  $2);  then 
visited  the  shops.  Mrs.  Park  bought 
a  number  of  things  at  the  jewelry 
stores,  but  I  wandered  up  and  down 
hunting  a  ' '  junk  shop ; "  at  last  I 
found  what  I  wanted,  but  alas!  it  was 
an  auction  store  and  the  man  wouldn't 
sell  me  anything  until  the  auction  be- 
gan which  made  it  too  late  for  me, 
so  I  went  clear  to  the  other  end  of  the 
street  and  there  right  near  Thos. 
Cook's  office,  where  I  was  to  meet  Mrs. 
Park,  I  found  a  store.  I  invested  60 
cents  after  a  great  deal  of  bargaining 
and  bought  an  embroidered  table  doiley 
in  dark  rich  blues  and  a  little  brass 
cup;  also  to  get  rid  of  me  (so  Mrs. 
Park  said)  the  man  gave  me  a  pretty 
little  fan  for  an  American  nickel — but 
they  always  smile  in  the  end. 

Last  night  at  the  table  I  heard  Mr. 
Warren  give  his  experience  in  trying  to 
buy  a  carved  ivory  elephant  for  $5;  the 
man  asked  $50  for  it  in  the  first  place, 
he  said  he  could  have  {rotten  it  for  $10. 

Thursday,  24th.— Just  before  leaving 
the  city  for  the  steamer  Mrs.  Park  and 
I  visited  the  old  church  of  the  skulls 
where  the  walls  of  a  building  (now 
crumbling)  are  lined  with  the  bones  and 
skulls  of  the  early  Christians.  Along 
the  dock  the  harbor  was  literally  filled 
with  small  row  boats  something  like 
gondolas,  flying  the  American  flag  or  a 
flag  with  one  star  upon  it;  these  were 
the  boats  which  took  our  passengers 

ack    and    forth,    and    in    the    morning 


&4 Malta. 

when  we  went  over  we  just  happened 
to  be  in  the  handsomest  row  boat  in  the 
harbor— thev  told  us— beautifully 
carved  and  bearing  the  coat  of  arms  of 
somebody.  We  reached  the  steamer  in 
time  to  lie  down  a  few  minutes  before 
dinner  and  T  tell  you  we  were  tired 
and  hungry.  We  coaled  at  Malta  and  I 
watched  tire  men  unload  the  great 
barges  of  it  carrying  all  of  it  in  large 
baskets  on  their  backs  up  the  gang 
Dlanks  into  the  hold.  They  said  that 
there  were  forty-six  of  the  barges. 

When  we  Ifcft  Malta  the  captain  very 
kindly  went  back  several  miles  to  St. 
Paul's  Bay,  where  the  Apostle  Paul  was 
shipwrecked.  We  passed  it  so  early 
that  morning  that  scarcely  anvbody 
saw  it.  Today  I  read  the  description  in 
Acts  27th  and  28th  Chapters  and  it  fit.s 
the  spot  exactly — where  the  two  seas 
mpt.  There  is  a  statue  of  St.  Paul  just 
above  the  bay.  The  waves  dashing  on 
the  shore  were  noticeably  larger  than 
nt  any  other  nlace,  probably  on  account 
of  two  opposing  currents. 

Tt  does  not  seem  nossible  that  oui 
next  stop  will  bo  Athens— earlv  to- 
morrow morning— and  we  will  bp  thpro 
two  days  and  a  half.  Malta  as  you 
know  brlonfs  to  England  but  it  is  very 
hard  to  find  nnvonp  who  speaks  English, 
«»jnpfial1v  <  -  the  strppts,  the  language 
is  Mnltpso,  a  mixture  of  the  Venetian 
and  Arabic.  Wtt  made  a  mistake  in  not 
"•pttinpf  a  supply  of  foreign  money  be- 
fore lp;iving  New  York;  they  do  not 
readilv  take  our  American  money  and 
"Cooks"  at  Malta  would  not  take 
Amprican  gol-1.  French  and  English 
money  is  nst»d  mostlv.  Thp  carriages  at 
M.nltn  .nil  have  rounded  square  tops  with 
curtains  draped  at  the  four  posts  and 
thw  nre  all  of  alight  yellow  color;  that 


Malta 35 

is  the  carriages  are;  the  curtains  range 
from  white  to  a  dark  color. 

I  want  to  tell  Mildred  about  the  kind 
of  milk  the  little  children  in  this  coun- 
try drink  and  how  they  get  it.  Every 
now  and  then  in  the  narrow  crowded 
streets  one  sees  a  small  herd  of  goats 
— about  a  dozen  in  a  bunch,  led  by  a 
boy,  girl  or  ragged  man  or  woman;  the 
goats  do  not  get  lost  in  the  crowd,  for 
the  leader  keeps  saying  "hike-hike- 
hike"  to  them;  then  if  a  little  girl 
wants  a  drink  of  milk  she  runs  to  the 
door,  which  opens  right  on  the  street, 
and  holds  her  cup  or  glass  while  the 
goat  is  milked.  It  is  a  funny  sight. 
Sometimes  just  one  or  two  goats  are  led 
by  a  man.  I  saw  one  sign  in  Malta 
which  read:  "Cow's  milk  for  sale 
here." 

I  am  afraid  that  the  last  part  of  our 
trip  will  seem  tame  to  us  after  the  in- 
teresting" sights  we  are  seeing  now.  All 
of  it,  so  far,  surpasses  my  fondest 
dreams.  Just  to  look  at  Malta  from  the 
harbor,  carries  one  back  centuries  upon 
centuries,  for  it  was  founded  B.  C.  It 
looks  like  a  continuous  castle  in  a  semi- 
circle around  the  harbor,  high  towers 
and  forts  all  of  stone.  We  passed  over 
;i  draw-bridge  too,  in  the  main  street. 
The  island  of  Malta  was  given  by 
Charles  I.  of  France  to  the  knights  of 
the  eight  pointed  star,  who  were  driven 
from  their  own  country,  Tripoli,  by  the 
Turks. 

We  had  a  talk  this  morning  on  what 
to  wear  in  Palestine  for  our  side  trips, 
by  Mrs.  Warren,  who  was  there  about 
this  time  last  year.  We  will  have  to 
buy  hats  and  a  kind  of  handkerchief  to 
wear  over  them  to  keep  the  sun  off 
our  necks;  also  dark  glasses.  Every- 
body, nearly,  complains  of  his  or  her 


36  Malta       

eyea;  mine  have  hurt  a  great  deal— es- 
pecially on  shore. 

The  Mediterranean  is  as  smooth  as  a 
river  and  haa  been  so  ever  since  we 
struck  it.  The  captain  said  that  we 
could  take  this  trip  forty  times  and 
never  find  it  like  this— so  delightful,  we 
scarcely  rock  at  all. 

I  forgot  to  tell  you  how  the  Maltese 
women  dress;  always  in  black,  with  a 
large  black  piece  like  an  apron  over 
their  heads.  On  one  side  of  the  head 
this  is  stiffened  and  stands  out  as  if 
filled  with  wind.  They  always  hold  it 
with  one  hand  and  it  is  a  wonder  to  me 
how  they  keep  it  on  in  a  gale,  for  they 
do  not  have  hat  pins.  Little  girls  wear 
this  costume,  too. 

It  is  nearly  dinner  time  now  and  I 
must  close  and  take  this  to  the  purser 
before  6  o'clock.  He  mails  and  stamps 
them  for  1  cent  extra  and  it  is  worth  it, 
for  it  is  often  a  trouble  to  find  the  post- 
office.  After  choir  practice  this  after- 
noon we  had  a  fine  talk  on  Palestine  by 
Dr.  Jessup.  Last  night,  too,  he  gave  us 
a  splendid  talk  on  "  Forty-eight  Years 
a  Missionary  in  Syria."  How  1  wish 
that  I  could  remember  everything  he 
says.  I  tried  to  take  a  few  notes. 

In  changing  our  trip  the  only  things 
we  hate  to  miss  are  Jacob's  well  and 
Samaria.  If  I  feel  equal  to  it  and  it  is 
not  too  warm,  I  may  try  to  go  there 
from  Jerusalem,  as  we  will  have  some 
extra  time  there;  but  it  will  take  two 
days  anyway.  You  have  our  cablegram 
by  this  time  and  you  know  that  we  are 
well  and  happy.  We  do  not  dare 
hope  for  mail  at  Athens.  I  will  write 
you  a  letter  after  every  stop,  so  if  you 
miss  one  you  will  know  that  it  is  lost. 


ATHENS 


LETTER  NO.   6. 


HOTEL    GRANDE-BRETAGNE,    PROPS.    E.    LAMPSA 

ATHENES,   LE  26TH  MARCH,   1904. 


HAVE  SEEN  THE  ACROPOLIS!  It 
ia  too  wonderful  for  description — 
the  temples  are  all  so  much 
larger  than  I  supposed.  The  hill 
stands  at  one  end  of  the  city  of  Athens 
and  those  wonderful  temples  in  ruins 
are  on  the  top;  the  columns  are  all 
immense — not  so  small  as  they  appear 
in  pictures.  Of  course,  the  Parthenon 
is  the  gem.  Its  majesty  is  indescrib- 
able, even  in  ruins,  and  what  must  it 
have  been  in  all  its  glory!  No  wonder 
that  Phidias  was  inspired  in  its  dec- 
orations. A  very  few  of  these  decora- 
tions remain  upon  the  building,  some 
are  in  the  museums  here,  but  most  of 
them  were  removed  to  London  by  Lord 
Elgin.  I  saw  the  original  marble  of 
the  "Sandal  Victory,"  a  copy  of  which 
I  have  at  home.  It  is  in  the  museum 
at  the  Acropolis  and  I  tried  to  take  a 
picture  of  it.  I  am  over  at  Athens 
alone  today,  (you  know  we  have  to 
take  tuo  train  from  Piraeus,  where  our 
boat  is  anchored.)  I  got  off  at  the 
first  station,  climoed  up  over  Mars 
Hill  (quite  a  mountain  from  the  Ath- 
ens side)  and  then  up  to  the  Acropolis. 


3ft  Athena 

This  is  a  short  cut  but  a  pretty  hard 
climb.  I  have  been  wandering  all 
morning  over  the  ruins  taking  snap 
sbots,  which  is  very  difficult  to  do  suc- 
cessfully with  the  small  cameras,  as 
neither  of  them  has  a  sliding  lens  board, 
therefore  I  have  to  tip  them  up  a  lit- 
tle to  get  the  high  columns.  While 
sitting  in  the  little  "Victory"  temple 
resting,  I  saw  a  touching  sight.  Mrs. 
Hartshorn  is  an  invalid,  can  only  walk 
a  few  steps  at  a  time,  and  I  looked 
down  and  saw  Mr.  Hartshorn,  Mr. 
Jacobs,  and  a  guide  carrying  her  up 
the  long  marble  steps  of  the  Acropolis 
in  a  chair.  They  finally  reached  the 
top  and  when  they  had  set  the  chair 
down  Mr.  Hartshorn  leaned  over  and 
kissed  her  so  tenderly,  saying  "There, 
'mother,'  just  look  around  you!" 

The  temple  of  Jupiter  Olympus,  too, 
is  magnificent;  it  stands  alone  on  the 
level  ground  below  the  Acropolis;  on 
the  other  side  of  Mars  Hill  and  below 
it,  is  the  Theseum  Temple,  the  most  per- 
fectly preserved  of  all  the  ruins. 

Sunday  evening,  March  27.  Aboard 
Str.  Grosser  Kurfurst. — The  above 
was  written  while  sitting  in  the  hotel 
at  Athens  waiting  for  dinner,  and  there 
was  such  a  din  in  my  ears  that  I  could 
scarcely  think.  The  first  day  in 
Athens,  (Friday),  we  were  driven  in 
carriages  to  the  principal  points  of  in- 
terest. Had  the  same  carriage  in  the 
i'.ftcrnoon.  We  reached  "home"  very 
tired,  but  filled  with  the  grandeur  and 
beauty  of  what  we  had  seen.  My  study 
•  if  the  Acropolis  two  years  ago  was 
wonderfully  helpful  to  me,  and,  of 
course,  made  the  temples  doubly  inter- 
esting. 

I  took  my  own  measurement  of  one 
of  the  Parthenon  columns  today;  with 
both  arms  outstretched  it  took  four  of 


Athens 39 

these  measurements  to  reach  around 
the  column,  so  you  can  guess  a  little 
at  their  size.  They  are  the  fluted 
Doric  columns,  the  simplest  of  all,  and 
to  me  the  most  beautiful.  On  the 
Acropolis  are  examples  of  all  three — 
Doric,  Ionic  and  Corinthian.  The  or- 
chestra is  playing  the  most  beautiful 
music  in  my  ears  and  it  is  so  hard  to 
write,  as  I  want  to  listen;  it  has  just 
finished  "The  Palms,"  this  being 
Palm  Sunday. 

Now  I  must  tell  you  about  our  im- 
pressive service  on  Mars  Hill  this  morn- 
ing. We  went  in  "droves"  from  8 
o'clock  till  10.  As  we  arrived  among 
the  first  we  had  choice  seats  upon  the 
ground.  It  was  a  very  beautiful  morn- 
ing, but  the  wind  blew  pretty  hard, 
so  we  sat  on  the  east  side  of  the  rock 
where  we  were  somewhat  sheltered 
from  it.  While  we  were  waiting,  the 
most  of  us  read  the  account  of  Paul 
at  Athens,  and  then  we  sang  a  few 
hymns  before  church  began.  I  think 
it  was  "America"  with  which  the  ser- 
vice opened,  and  all  who  had  flags 
waved  them,  then  Dr.  Potts  of  Canada, 
"stood  in  the  midst"  bare  headed,  and 
preached  one  of  the  most  beautiful 
sermons  I  ever  heard,  on  "Jesus  Christ 
and  the  Eesurrection, "  pure  and  sim- 
ple. Rev.  Pierce,  the  great  Sunday 
school  man,  sat  near  me,  and  the  tears 
streamed  down  his  cheeks  as  that  ven- 
erable ,  gray-haired  man  gave  utterance 
to  such  beautiful  truths.  Dr.  Potts 
only  referred  to  Paul  a  few  times,  but 
I  forgot  to  say  that  just  before  he 
began  the  whole  congregation  read  the 
17th  chapter  of  Acts  and  then  he  took 
for  his  text  the  18th  verse. 

Mrs.  Park  went  right  home  after 
church  with  the  rest  of  the  crowd,  but 
1  went  to  the  Acropolis  for  the  last 


4-O  Athens 

time  and  wandered  amid  the  ruins  for 
an  hour,  but  I  finally  tore  myself  away 
and  ran  down  the  marble  steps,  climb- 
ed Mars  Hill  and  down  the  other  side 
to  the  station,  running  a  good  deal  of 
the  way;  just  caught  the  train,  and  then 
the  tug  at  the  landing  here;  reached 
the  shij.,  ran  all  the  way  to  the  dining 
room  and  was  just  in  time  for  the  sec- 
ond course  of  the  first  sitting— a  little 
after  1  o'clock,  and  Mrs.  Park  miss- 
ed the  first  course,  too,  and  she  took 
the  train  ahead  of  me,  but  met  with 
delays  at  every  turn. 

we  were  both  so  tired  out  that  we 
went  to  bed  right  after  dinner;  had  a 
good  nap  and  rest  and  now  feel  almost 
as  good  as  new. 

We  have  had  breakfast  at  6:30  for 
the  past  two  mornings. 

We  are  to  listen  to  a  talk  by  some 
missionaries  in  a  few  minutes,  but  I 
tiunk  we  will  not  stay  through  it  all 
:is  we  want  to  get  a  good  rest  for  Con- 
stantinople, tomorrow.  Our  pass-ports 
did  not  arrive  at  Athens,  but  Mr.  Clark 
says  that  we  will  get  them  at  Constan- 
tinople. 1  hope  so,  as  we  cannot  land 
in  Palestine  without  the  Turkish  tez- 
kera  which  we  bought  in  New  York, 
i iiit  it  had  to  oe  sent  to  Washington 
tirst. 

The  shops  were  not  attractive  at 
Athens,  so  I  only  bought  two  little 
trinkets  at  the  Parthenon  and  a  photo 
of  the  parthenon  in  town.  I  wanted 
one  of  the  very  large  photos  of  it,  and 
pprhaps  I  will  be  sorry  that  I  did  not 
tfct  one;,  out,  of  course,  I  must  think 
of  the  expense  still  before  me.  The 
hills  and  the  Acropolis  in  the  distance 
wrre  very  beautiful  as  we  drew  out  of 
the  harbor  this  afternoon.  I  climbed 
down  out  of  mv  berth  to  see  it,  stuck 
my  head  out  of  the  port  hole  in  our 


AtHens  4-1 

room,  and  got  a  good  dose  of  white 
paint  from  the  outside  of  the  ship, 
.mey  painted  it  ^esterday. 

I  have  just  teen  told  that  it  is  the 
14th  of  March  in  Athens  today,  but  I 
do  not  understand  it. 

They  have  some  paper  money  about  2 
xl  %  inches.  We  each  have  two  or  three 
of  their  small  coins  left,  worth  in  all 
only  about  8  cents  in  our  money.  We 
are  getting  to  be  experts  in  counting 
the  coins  of  the  different  countries.  One 
man  came  to  the  table  the  other  day 
and  announced  that  he  was  two  hours 
counting  his  change,  and  he  had  in  all 
just  $2.50.  It  is  a  common  sight  to  see 
a  passenger  in  deep  study  over  a  hand- 
ful of  coppers  and  small  coins.  We  have 
already  had  Grecian,  English,  French, 
Moorish,  Spanish,  American,  Canadian 
and  other  coins.  The  lecture  is  in  pro- 
gress now  and  I  must  close. 


ATHENS 

LETTER  JMO.  7. 

STEAMER  GROSSER  KURFURST,  NEARING  CON- 
STANTINOPLE, MARCH  28,  1904. 


HIS  morning  early  we  passed  the 
site  of  'ancient  Troy,  and  a  little  this 
side  of  there  while  we  were  at  break- 
fast we  stood  still  for  about  half  an 
hour  waiting  for  a  permit  to  enter  the 
Turkish  domains,  I  suppose.  A  Mrs. 
Grant  at  our  table— a  pleasant  travel- 
ing companion — is  going  to  treat  our 
table  to  a  day's  ride  in  Constantinople 
with  a  private  guide.  We  can  see  so 
much  more  that  way  as  one  guide  has  to 
go  a  long  way  in  this  crowd  of  800.  It 
seems  to  me  that  each  place  has  been 
more  interesting  than  the  one  preced- 
ing it — especially  Athens,  with  those 
wonderful  old  templesi  and  sculpture, 
and,  above  all,  the  Parthenon  tliere. 

The  first  day  in  Athens  we  had  the 
privilege  of  seeing  a  Greek  funeral. 
The  procession  passed  our  hotel  at 
noon.  The  body  is  always  carried  in 
the  coffin  by  men  walking,  but  the  lid 
of  the  casket  is  taken  off  and  carried 
by  a  man  in  the  very  front  of  the  pro- 
cession. The  head  is  raised  above  the 
top  of  the  coffin  and  exposed,  so  that 
every  one  may  see  it  as  it  is  carried 
through  the  streets.  The  mourners 
walk  behind  the  corpse,  and  then  follow 
the  empty  hearse  and  carriages.  The 
lic:irs('  is  used  simply  as  a  marks  of 


4-4  Athens ^ 

respect  by  the  wealthy;  the  poor  never 
use  one.  The  carriages  are  taken  along 
do  that  the  mourners  mav  ride  home. 
It  was  a  fearful  sight  to  see  that  dead 
face  turned  up  to  the  light— the  face 
ox  a  woman. 

There  has  been  a  great  change  in 
the  weather  the  past  24  hours,  it  is  so 
cold  that  we  are  all  going  around  with 
our  wraps  and  hats  on.  The  wind  ia 
so  piercing  that  it  has  given  me  neu- 
ralgia. Nearly  everybody  has  a  cold. 
1  warded  off  two  or  three  but  finally 
took  one  at  Athens — getting  overheat- 
ed; it  is  very  hard  to  keep  from  it 
while  traveling. 

We  have  just  listened  to  a  talk  by 
two  missionaries  of  Turkey  who  board- 
ed our  ship  at  Athens.  After  the  lec- 
ture they  placed  on  sale  a  lot  of  needle- 
work done  by  native  women,  mostly 
widows  of  massacred  husbands,  and 
they  were  simply  snatched  up;  not  a 
piece  was  left.  It  beat  any  "sale"  I 
ever  saw.  Mrs.  Park  managed  to  get 
Ji  few  pieces;  it  is  beautiiul  work.  I 
was  twenty  feet  from  the  nearest  dis- 
play and  1  knew  that  taere  was  no  use 
even  trying  to  see  it. 

The  other  evening,  as  I  was  leaving 
the  room  at  a  lecture  on  board,  a  lady 
left  at  the  same  time  and  when  we 
reached  the  hall  she  spoke  to  me,  asking 
me  if  I  did  not  have  a  brother  abroad 
four  years  ago.  She  said  that  she  could- 
n't remember  his  name  but  that  I  was 
so  much  like  him  and  that  he  was  from 
Oregon  and  his  name  was  George. 
Thinking  that  she  had  confused  George 
with  Joe,  I  told  her  when  Joe  was  there, 
for  she  said  that  it  was  at  The  Hague 
she  met  him,  and  I  found  that  it  was  in 
August,  before  Joe  sailed,  that  she  met 
the  gentleman.  Then  she  said  "There 
is  something  very  familiar  about  your 


Athens  4-3 

face;   did   I  not  meet  you   in  Paris?" 

..en  when  I  mentioned  the  name  of 
Ihe  Hotel  at  The  Hague  she  said: 
"Why,  it  was  you  who  sent  me  there; 
i  met  you  at  Paris;  you  were  with 
\  our  father  and  had  your  wheels,  and 
I  went  to  the  hotel  you  told  me  about 
and  rested  there  three  weeks,  and  that 
was  where  I  met  the  young  man  who 
reminded  me  of  you.'  But  it  was  not 
Joe.  Now,  wasn't  that  strange?  She  is 
the  second  one  on  this  trip  who  met 
me  aoroad  four  years  ago. 

We  have  a  very  comfortable  state- 
room and  our  room-mate  is  a  very  nice 
middle-aged  lady.  She  has  a  grand- 
daughter named  Mildred  and  speaks 
of  her  often.  I  have  not  seen  any  rugs 
yet  that  I  would  want  to  buy  but  prob- 
aoly  will  at  Beyrout,  as  Mrs.  Jessup 
^wife  of  Dr.  Jessup,  who  has  been  a 
missionary  there  -or  48  years  and  who, 
at  the  age  of  72,  is  going  back  to  the 
field  now)  told  me  that  Damascus  was 
the  best  place  and  .beyrout  next,  so 
as  we  are  not  going  to  Damascus  ($30 
extra)  I  will  likelv  buy  one  at  Bey- 
rout. 

i  wish  you  could  hear  the  music  that 
we  have  every  evening  at  dinner.  Of 
course,  the  musicians  are  all  German, 
and  they  do  play  beautifully.  The 
program  is  printed  every  evening  on 
the  back  of  the  menu  card  and  it  is 
repented  at  the  second  sitting.  We 
have  first  sittings  at  5:30. 

Mrs.  Park  let  me  buy  one  of  her 
little  doilies  and  I  will  enclose  it  in 
tins  for  your  birthday  as  it  is  so  light 
in  weight;  it  is  all  made  by  hand  with 
simply  a  needle  and  a  spool  of  thread 
—  a  doily  from  Turkey. 


LETTER  NO.  8. 

ON  BOARD  THE  GROSSER  KURFURST,  AEGEAN  SEA, 
THURSDAY,  MARCH  31,  1904. 


T  SEEMS  a  week  since  I  last  wrote 
you,  so  much  has  been  crowded  into 
a  few  days. 

We  finished  Athens,  or  rather  it  fin- 
ished me,  Sunday  at  noon.  However,  I 
think  I  told  you  all  about  that  day. 
Then  we  had  a  day  on  the  boat,  but  no 
rest,  for  there  were  meetings  and  many 
things  to  attend  to  before  we  reached 
Constantinople.  This  great  capital  is 
really  a  beautiful  city,  with  its  tower- 
ing minarets  and  round  domes  of  the 
mosques,  which  alone  uistinguish  it 
from  other  cities.  Of  course,  the  popu- 
lation is  unknown  as  it  is  forbidden  to 
take  a  census,  but  whatever  it  is,  just 
multiply  it  by  four  and  you  will  have 
the  number  of  dogs  which  it  contains. 
1  never  saw  anything  like  it;  they  sleep 
all  day  and  bark  and  howl  all  night,  be- 
ginning their  concert  at  12  o'clock 
midnight— and  this  is  the  truth.  We 
saw  hundreds  upon  hundreds  of  dogs — 
nearly  all  ugly  yellow  ones — and  I 
think  they  subsist  upon  the  garbage 
which  is  thrown  into  the  streets.  They 
take  up  nearly  all  the  sidewalks,  nap- 
ping in  the  day  time  while  the  people 
walk  in  the  streets;  and  these  people 


•4-ft  Constantinople. 

are  a  strange  sight.  Imagine  a  great 
throng  of  men  with  every  head  topped 
with  a  red  fez  and  you  have  the  pic- 
ture, for  there  are  scarcely  any  women 
on  the  streets  and  every  man,  hardly 
without  exception,  wears  a  fez,  although 
nearly  all  wear  the  European  dress,  so 
that  when  a  number  of  our  men  and 
boys  aboard  adopted  the  Turkish  head- 
dress we  could  not  tell  them  from  the 
Turks,  for  the  latter  are  not  darker 
than  the  average  man  we  see  on  our 
streets  at  home.  However,  some  of  the 
Arabs  and  men  of  other  nationalities 
who  wear  the  fez  are  quite  dark;  they 
are  Turks,  too,  but  not  Moslems.  There 
are  a  great  many  Turkish  Jews,  too. 
The  best  known  man  of  the  latter  class 
is  "Far-away  Moses"  who  has  a  store 
at  the  Bazaar  where  all  tourists  go  to 
shop. 

To  return  to  the  dogs.  The  Turks  are 
superstitious  about  them  and  will  never 
kill  one.  I  believe  the  penalty  for  do- 
ing so  is  two  years  imprisonment,  BO 
that  as  we  were  warned  before  hand,  we 
were  over  kind  to  the  dogs;  but  acci- 
dents will  happen,  and  last  night  one  of 
our  preachers  and  three  young  men 
went  after  dark  to  town  and  they  had 
not  gone  far  till  they  noticed  quite  a 
stir,  but  had  no  idea  that  they  were  the 
cause  of  it  until  they  saw  that  they 
were  almost  closed  in  upon  by  soldiers 
who  were  watching  them  suspiciously. 
They  then  decided  to  return  to  the  boat 
and  in  their  haste  one  of  them  stepped 
on  a  dog;  it  howled,  and  immediately  a 
soldier  drew  a  knife  and  held  it  over 
his  head.  The  young  man  ran  and  so 
did  the  other  three  as  hard  as  they 
could,  till  they  reached  the  boat.  When 
some  one  asked  the  young  man  why 
he  ran,  he  said  because  he  couldn't 


Constantinople. 


fly.  The  Turks  are  very  suspicious, 
but  otherwise  we  found  them  very  kind 
and  polite.  However,  there  is  not  a 
man  among  them  who  will  not  cheat  an 
American  at  every  opportunity,  and 
Turkish  money  is  so  hard  to  understand. 
The  first  morning  we  were  all  in  a 
"muddle."  In  some  way  the  first  car- 
riages did  not  understand  the  orders  of 
guides,  and  for  about  two  hours  we 
scarcely  moved.  We  were  in  carriages 
and  they  stood  in  double  line  in  the 
narrow  streets,  so,  of  course,  none  could 
move  till  they  all  moved.  Guides  were 
scarce  and  the  drivers  might  have  been 
deaf,  dumb  and  blind  for  all  they  could 
understand.  No;  I  will  take  it  back, 
not  dumb,  for  of  all  noises,  the  native 
tongues  of  the  places  we  have  visited 
are  most  fearful.  The  drivers  stand 
up  and  fairly  yell  volleys  of  the  most 
awful  sounding  language  at  one  an- 
other till  it  seems  that  a  fist  fight  is 
imminent,  but  when  they  are  through, 
they  calmly  sit  down  till  another  man 
appears  and  then  they  are  at  it  again.  It 
keeps  one  on  the  verge  of  nervous  ex- 
haustion, not  knowing  whether  it  means 
murder  or  theft  or  only  admonition. 
Miss  Ackerman  told  us  the  other  day 
that  she  was  afraid  to  ask  a  man  a  cer- 
tain question  twice,  because  it  sounded 
like  he  was  swearing  at  her. 

Well,  after  the  carriages  got  started, 
we  were  told  to  get  out  and  climb  a 
high  stone  tower  not  far  from  the 
wharf.  No  one  could  tell  us  what  we 
would  see,  so,  leaving  Mrs.  Park  at  the 
foot,  up  I  went,  up  and  up  the  winding 
stairs,  meeting  at  every  platform  the 
down  coming  pilgrims  all  saying  the 
same  thing:  "It  doesn't  pay,"  "look 
out  for  the  fresh  paint  up  there;"  but 
I  was  like  everybody  else  and  went  to 


SO Constantinople. 

the  top;  there  was  a  fine  view,  but  I 
was  so  provoked  with  myself  for  com- 
ing that  I  didn  't  enjoy  it,  for  I  saw  that 
it  didn't  pay,  and  I  also  saw  the  fresh 
yellow  paint  with  which  hundreds     of 
our   pilgrims   were    branded       It     was 
really  very  funny  after  it  was  all  over, 
—our  doing  the  "fire"  tower.  We  then 
visited    the    museum    without    a    guide, 
but  there  happened  to  be  a  lady  in  our 
party,  a  teacher  at  the  American  Col- 
lege  at    Constantinople,   who     told      us 
about  the  interesting  things  at  the  mu- 
seum, the  greatest     treasure     being     a 
sarcophagus,  supposed     to     have     been 
made  by  the  Greeks  for  Alexander     the 
Great;  it  was  found  at  Sidon — I  believe 
by  a  missionary.     It  is  very  large  and 
T  think,  is  marble.     The   design   repre- 
sents a  war  scene  of  Alexander's  time, 
and  the  figures  are  very,  very  beautiful. 
It  is  in  almost  perfect  condition  and  is 
colored  a  little;  that  is,  tinted  in  colors. 
We  then  drove  to  the  treasury  and  pub- 
lic buildings,  in  one  of  which  we  were 
all  treated  to  coffee  and  rose-leaf  jam. 
The  former  is  served  in  tiny  cups  with- 
out  cream,  but   sweetened   till   it   is   a 
syrup.     The  latter  is     made     of     rose 
leaves  and    looks   and   tastes  just   like 
jelly  without  the  flavor  of  a  fruit.     It 
is  put  into  a  small  dish  in  the  center  of 
a  large  tray;  tiny  spoons  are  arranged 
around  it  and     the     remainder     of     the 
tray  is  filled  with  tumblers  of  cold  wa- 
ter.    There  are  two  ways  of  eating  . 
one  is  to  dip  your  rfpoon  into  the  jam, 
take  a  taste  of  it,  then  a  swallow  of 
water  and  so  on.     The  other  way  is  to 
take  a  spoonful  of  the  jam  and  stir     it 
into  the  glass  of  water  and  then  drink 
it.     We   tried   the  second  method,  but 
we  will  never  tell  how  much  we  drank, 


Constantinople.  51 

and,  strange  to  say,  neither  of  us  asked 
for  a  second  cup  of  coffee. 

After  refreshments  we  crossed  a 
small  court,  went  up  some  stone  steps, 
passed  a  large  basin  of  water  with  a 
fountain  high  above  the  ground,  and 
entered  a  most  beautifnl  room  with  a 
round  dome  like  a  mosque.  Here  the  Sul- 
tan comes  about  twice  a  year  to  read 
the  Koran.  The  embroidery,  rugs,  etc., 
are  beautiful,  thp  walls  are  all  blue 
tiling  and  there  is  a  beautiful  bay 
window  and  an  immense  fire  place  in 
the  room.  We  then  crossed  the  court 
again  and,  after  standing  for  a  long 
time  in  groups  of  50,  we  finally  entered 
the  treasury.  In  this  building  we  saw 
everything  that  could  be  jeweled,  from 
two  beautiful  thrones  to  pistols  and 
vases.  You  know  the  Turks  sit  on  the 
floor,  so  these  thrones  are  different 
from  anything  that  1  evei  saw  in  their 
line.  They  are  shaped  something  like  a 
horse-shoe  and  from  a  distance  looked 
a  little  like  a  sofa;  but  it  is  really  a 
padded  floor  surrounded  by  what  would 
be  the  back  and  sides  of  an  old-fashion- 
ed sofa,  and  the  whole  of  it  is  complete- 
ly covered  with  pearis  and  rubies  and 
other  jewels,  as  is  also  the  heavy  satin 
pillow  at  the  back  and  the  step  or  foot- 
stool in  front  of  the  opening.  T  tell 
you  it  is  gorgeous — one  is  red,  with  ru- 
bies, the  other  blue,  with  turquoise. 

We  then  drove  directly  to  the  boat, 
too  late  for  the  first  sitting,  and  you 
can't  imagine  what  it  means  to  land 
several  hundred  people  on  a  boat,  too 
late  for  dinner;  but  the  deck  stewards 
did  their  best  and  by  using  each  others 
forks  and  knives  and  even  plates,  and 
drinking  our  soup  out  of  cups,  we  man- 
aged to  get  a  pretty  good  luncheon.  Of 
course  we  were  late  starting  out  again; 


,52  Constantinople. ^ 

but  we  kept  the  same  driver  and  went 
the  rounds  independent  of  any  guich, 
and  we  got  along  much  better,  for  near- 
ly every  place  we  v-sited  we  met  a 
party  with  a  guide,  anil  tagged  along. 
We  went  to  the  palace  of  the  former 
Sultan;  gorgeous  beyond  description  is 
the  throne  room,  from  the  floor  of  inlaid 
hard  wood  to  the  high  dome.  Nothing 
that  I  saw  in  Paris  could  compare  wilh 
its  decoration,  which  is  exceedingly 
showy— ana  gorgeous  is  the  only  word 
that  describes  it. 

We  then  drove  across  the  bridge 
again  and  visited  two  Mosques,  the 
most  noted  of  which  is  St.  Sophia  (pro- 
nounced So-fee-yah)  and  we  just  hap- 
pened to  be  there  during  service,  which 
made  it  very  interesting.  They  allowed 
us  to  go  into  the  galleries  and  look  on. 
When  they  prostrate  themselves,  they 
first  get  on  their  knees,  then  place  the 
palms  of  their  hands  flat  on  the  floor 
in  front  of  them,  bending  forward  till 
their  foreheads  touch  the  floor.  They  re- 
main in  this  position  till  the  high  priest 
calls  again,  they  then  kneel  or  stand 
and  always  all  together.  They  never 
make  a  mistake  through  it  all;  they 
are  so  very,  very  graceful  in  all  their 
movements  and  it  is  very  interesting  to 
watch  them,  but  the  heart  of  a  Chris- 
tian looking  on  is  filled  with  pity  for 
them.  The  mosque  is  beautiful  and  so 
old.  Outside  of  every  mosque  are  nu- 
merous places  for  performing  their  ab- 
lutions before  prayer,  which  you  know 
is  a  part  of  their  ceremony. 

It  is  late,  and  I  must  tell  you  about 
the  Bazaars  in  another  letter,  for  we 
breakfast  at  6  in  the  morning  and  visit 
Ephesus  and  Smyrna  both  in  one  day 
nnd  sail  again  tomorrow  night,  the  first 
change  in  our  program. 


CONSTANTIOPLE 


LETTER  NO.   9. 


STEAMER  GROSSER  KURFURST  ON  THE  MEDITER- 
RANEAN NEAR  RHODES,  SATURDAY  EVENING, 
APRIL  2,  1904. 


N  MY  last  letter  T  did  not  tell  about 
the  Bazaars  at  Constantinople.  They 
are  one  of  the  sights  of  the  city  and 
were  not  included  in  the  regular  carri- 
age drives.  An  American  could  not  go 
there  alone,  especially  a  lady,  so  on 
Wednesday,  our  last  day  in  the  city, 
Mrs.  Park  and  I  concluded  to  take  a 
carriage  with  a  driver  who  could  speak 
a  little  English,  if  possible.  So  while 
we  were  hunting  him,  guides  came  up 
and  offered  their  services,  which,  of 
course,  we  refused,  thinking  that  we 
could  not  afford  both,  but  in  the  con- 
fusion one  man  offered  his  services, 
saying  that  he  was  one  of  "Clark's" 
guides  and  that  it  would  cost  us 
nothing,  so  we  gladly  accepted  his 
offer  and  went  in  great  style  in 
a  swell  carriage  with  coachman  and 
guide.  We  first  drove  to  the  kodak 
shop  where  I  bought  14  rolls  of  film 
paying  about  10  cents  more  a  roll  than 
at  New  York,  the  regular  price  being 
about  15  cents  more.  T  gave  the  man 
$20  ari3  such  a  time  as  I  had  getting 
the  right  change;  the  guide  stood  in 
with  the  man  and  I  stood  for  myself 


54-  Constantinople 

and  stuck  to  it.  The  men  I  think  were 
honest,  but  did  not  understand  the 
value  of  their  money  in  English  or 
American  coin.  It  happened  to  be  next 
door  to  "Cook's,"  so  we  waited  till 
they  opened  (about  half  an  hour)  as 
the  shopkeeper  was  willing  to  let 
Cook's  man  settle  the  question.  It  paid 
to  wait  even  if  we  did  have  to  pay 
carriage  hire,  as  I  gained  nearly  $3  by 
it.  After  purchasing  the  films,  which, 
by  the  way,  I  was  so  glad  to  get,  as  it 
was  impossible  to  buy  them  on  board 
and  I  had  just  about  run  out,  with 
practically  all  my  trip  before  me,  we 
drove  about  two  miles  to  the  Bazaars. 
These  we  found  to  be  numerous  little 
shops  in  narrow  alleys  with  a  great 
deal  of  goods  displayed  outside.  The 
shopkeepers  would  almost  pull  us  into 
their  stores  and  our  guide  was  quite 
necessary  here;  he  thought  that  he  was 
all  important.  We  had  a  fine  time, 
and  I  bought  a  beautiful  rug— Turk- 
ish, of  course,  I  think  Saraband.  I 
had  had  a  little  experience  in  rug- 
bargaining  the  evening  before  on  board. 
A  merchant  had  his  rugs  on  the  upper 
promenade  deck  and  I  had  spied  two 
rugs  that  I  wanted.  Of  course,  he  had 
them  on  display  for  me,  when  along 
came  a  man  (with  a  hint  from  Mr. 
Clark,  the  tourist  man)  and  he  offered 
more  than  I  did  and  got  one  rug;  it  was 
a  beauty.  The  other  was  too  high  for 
me.  Before  I  left  the  deck  I  got  pret- 
ty well  acquainted  with  the  rug  man- 
in  fact,  we  were  good  friends— so  the 
next  day  when  I  returned  to  the  boat 
I  told  him  that  I  had  bought  a  rug  in 
town.  Of  course,  he  wanted  to  see  it 
so  I  told  him  all  right,  to  come  down 
stairs  and  I  woul'd  show  it  to  him.  Be- 
fore opening  it  I  made  him  promise 


Constantinople  55 

that  he  would  honestly  tell  me  the 
truth  about  it.  So,  telling  him  what  I 
paid  for  it,  I  opened  it  and  spread  it 
on  the  floor.  "Well,"  he  said,  "that's 
not  bad,  not  bad,"  in  a  very  thought- 
ful manner  examining  it,  and  I  was  very 
well  satisfied,  for  I  thought  that  was  a 
good  deal  for  one  dealer  to  say  about 
another  dealer's  goods.  The  man  I 
bought  it  of  was  a  ' '  one-price ' '  man, 
for  a  wonder,  so  that  it  was  very  hard 
to  bargain  with  him  but  I  finally  did 
get  it  $3  cheaper  than  his  price.  Mrs. 
Park  said  that  "nobody  could  have 
done  it  but  Mrs.  Wiggins."  The  rug 
man  on  board  told  me  the  last  day  that 
the  rug  that  J  wanted  of  his  was  bet- 
ter than  any  of  the  others,  so  you  se« 
I  have  developed  into  a  rug  connois- 
seur. Then,  of  course,  1  know  when  the 
colors  please  me.  I  never  wish  to  be 
wealthy  so  much  in  my  life  as  when  I 
see  such  things.  I  hope  that  I  will  not 
have  to  pay  duty.  We  bought  a  few 
things  on  boarti,  the  same  evening — 
beautiful  work  by  students  at  the 
American  College. 

Wednesday  afternoon,  as  I  had  prom- 
ised beforehand,  I  went  with  about  70 
of  the  chorus  to  the  American  College, 
where  they  had  a  program — a  splendid 
one,  too — and  the  chorus  took  part; 
they  then  treated  us  to  refreshments 
and  we  took  the  5  o'clock  boat  back  to 
Constantinople  reaching  the  Kurfurst 
just  in  time  for  supper.  The  college  is 
for  girls  only,  and  they  are  fine-looking 
girls  of  almost  every  nationality.  Ev- 
ery once  in  a  while  the  Sultan  issues 
an  edict  forbidding  M&slem  girls  to  at- 
tend. They  disappear  for  a  few 
weeks  or  months  then  return  till  he 
issues  another  edict,  when  they  leave 
again  for  a  short  time.  A  number  of 


•5O  Constantinople 

our  party  visited  the  boys'  college  in 
the  morning  but  we  took  the  bazaars 
instead,  and  it  was  a  good  thing  for  us 
that  we  did,  for  some  of  our  party  were 
used  up  climbing  the  high  hill  to  the 
building;  our  roommate  has  been  sick 
ever  since. 

We  left  Constantinople  early  the 
next  morning  instead  of  12  o'clock 
and  we  were  all  out  on  deck  as  we 
steamed  past  the  interesting  sights  up 
into  the  Black  sea.  At  the  narrowest 
part  of  the  Bosphorus  are  the  ruins  of 
a  beautiful  old  fort  with  towers  and 
turrets.  It  was  built  by  the  first  Sul- 
tan who  defended  the  Bosphorus.  There 
also  was  where  Darius  had  his  fleet,  if  I 
am  not  mistaken.  Constantinople,  too, 
looked  beautiful  in  the  hazy  morning 
light  and  I  tried  to  take  a  few  snap 
shots  of  it,  but  it  was  a  little  dark  I 
think. 

In  Constantinople  we  had  our  first 
rain,  but  it  was  very  little. 

The  next  morning  we  were  called  at 
5:20  o'clock;  had  breakfast  at  6,  but 
did  not  land  at  Smyrna  till  about  8 
o'clock.  It  was  raining,  and  everybody 
looked  discouraged,  especially  those 
holding  Ephesus  side  trip  tickets,  as  we 
had  been  warned  the  evening  before  by 
Mr.  Warren  that  it  would  be  a  very 
hard  trip;  about  five  miles  of  walking 
after  we  reached  there,  and  the  pro- 
gram had  been  changed  so  that  the 
Ephesus  crowd  would  miss  all  of  Smyr- 
na except  about  one  or  two  hours  on 
their  return,  as  we  sailed  the  same1 
night.  Some  sold  their  Ephesus  tick- 
ets cheap;  others  stayed  home  and 
couldn't  sell  theirs,  but  Mrs.  Park  and 
I,  with  two  or  three  hundred  others, 
decided  to  "do  or  die"  and  how  glad 
we  wore,  for  Smyrna  proved  to  be  very 


uninteresting.  But  Ephesus;  it  is 
»rand!  and  we  did  not  take  the  long 
walk  out  to  the  temple  either,  but  we 
walked  about  half  a  mile  through  the 
most  interesting  old  ruins  all  about  us, 
to  the  ruins  of  St.  John's  church  where 
St.  John  preached  for  three  years — the 
church  mentioned  in  Revelation.  There 
is  really  nothing  of  it  remaining  ex- 
cept the  fallen  walls  with  decorations 
and  inscriptions  on  some  of  the  pieces, 
but  the  great  arched  gate  leading  to  it 
is  very  beautiful  and  interesting.  A 
caravan  of  camels  was  in  Ephesus  that 
day  and  I  got  some  of  them  to 
pose  for  me.  I  wandered  off  into  a 
field  where  |hey  were — set  ut»  my  cam- 
era on  a  tripod  (for  it  was  a  dark 
day)  and  took  portraits  of  the  camels. 
Mrs.  Park  said  they  actually  looked 
like  they  were  posing  for  me.  Twice 
they  thought  that  I  got  a  little  too 
close,  and  took  after  me.  Of  course 
I  yelled,  grabbed  my  camera  and  ran, 
greatly  to  the  amusement  of  a  group 
of  Arabs,  the  owners  of  the  animals; 
they  laughed  and  laughed;  they 
thought  it  was  so  funny,  but  it  was  no 
fun  running,  for  the  ground  was  cov- 
ered completely  with  squares  of  marble 
and  stone.  A  most  interesting  sight,  too, 
were  the  storks'  nests  on  top  of  nearly 
every  column  of  the  aqueduct,  also  on 
towers  and  grass-covered  domes  of  the 
old  mosques  or  monasteries.  A  few 
people  live  there  in  thatched-roofed 
huts — most  miserable  affairs.  I  wan- 
dered among  them  alone,  when  all  of 
our  crowd  had  started  for  the  station, 
and  got  along  all  right  till  I  took  a 
picture  of  a  hut,  when  a  youngster 
picked  up  a  big  rock  and  threatened 
me.  I  motioned  to  him  that  the  girl  hud 
given  me  permission.  I  threw  him  a 


58 


penny  then  retraced  my  steps  because 
I  was  afraid  to  go  on.  It  was  well  that 
I  did  for  when  I  -was  almost  at  the  top 
of  the  hill  above  the  Huts  nearly  all  the 
inhabitants  began  yelling  at  me  and 
wanted  money.  I  hurried  on  to  the 
church  of  St.  John  and  there  the  don- 
keys and  I  had  it  all  to  ourselves. 

I  do  hope  some  of  the  time  pictures 
will  be  good  for  I  couldn't  take  snap- 
shots. 

Before  I  reached  tne  station  a  very 
hard  s-torm  overtook  me.  I  crouched 
down  behind  a  stone  wall  and  held  my 
umbrella  close  over  me  so  I  did  not  get 
very  wet,  but  some  of  our  party,  who 
were  a  mile  or  two  out  from  the  station, 
were  simply  soaked.  Mrs.  Park  was 
safe  and  dry  at  the  station.  When  I 
told  her  my  experience  with  the  na- 
tives she  said  I  could  never  get  rid  of 
her  again,  for  she  saw  that  she  must 
take  care  of  me,  but  I  told  her  that  1 
could  run  and  climb  as  fast  as  any  of 
them.  However,  I  shall  not  do  it  again 
as  I  was  a  little  frightened,  for  they 
did  not  look  pleasant  at  me. 

£  can  never  forget  Ephesus  and  how 
much  more  interesting  hereafter  it  will 
be  to  read  Paul's  epistle  to  the  Ephe- 
sians.  The  theatre  in  which  he  stood, 
when  there  was  such  an  uproar,  was 
visited  by  most  of  the  crowd,  but  we 
were  so  worn  out  that  we  did  not  dare 
attempt  the  walk.  We  saw  the  site  of 
it  in  tue  distance,  and  then  I  could  not 
have  taken  so  many  pictures  if  I  had 
gone  with  the  large  crowd. 

We  reached  Smyrna  (52  miles  from 
Ephcsus)  about  4  o'clock  in  the  after- 
noon; went  directly  to  the  postoffice; 
lost  track  of  our  guide  there,  so  we 
wandered  down  the  street  and  found 
the  Bazaars  alone.  We  thought  them 


Smyrna  59 

uninteresting  so  wandered  back  to  the 
dock  where  we  each  bought  a  box  of 
Smyrna  figs  (bought  mine  for  less  than 

5  cents).     I  could  not  even  find  an  in- 
teresting  jug  there,    but   at   Ephesus   I 
bought   two  little  objects  found  in  the 
ruins — small  earthen  lamp  and  jug. 

Easter  Sunday,  April  3.— We  will 
have  dinner  in  a  few  minutes  and  I 
must  try  and  leave  this  with  the  purser 
before  then.  This  has  been  a  full  day 
—a  beautiful  Easter  Sunday.  Break- 
fast, prayers,  church  (Dr.  Lawrence  of 
our  table  preached"),  lunch,  Sunday 
school  (attendance  557)  and  now  it  is 
almost  our  dinner  time  5:30.  Tonight  we 
have  services  on  'leek.  It  is  quite 
warm  again;  at  Constantinople  it  was 
so  cold.  We  are  traveling  very  slowly 
to  save  coal  and  although  we  left 
Smyrna  almost  a  day  ahead  of  time  we 
will  not  reach  Beyrout  till  in  the  morn- 
ing. 

Everyone  is  busy  now  planning  for 
the  side  trips.  We  are  now  both  on  No. 

6  and  leave     Wednesday     morning     by 
carriage — a  three  or  four   days  trip;  it 
is  really  the  overflow  of  No.  5  and  goes 
a   day   later.     We     have     been   sailing 
close  to  the  island  of  Cyprus  nearly  all 
day. 

We  had  a  good  talk  on  Baalbec, 
Damascus  and  Beyrout  last  night.  •  I 
only  heard  part  of  it  as  I  was  writing 
this  letter.  I  may  not  write  again  for 
a  week  as  we  wilT  be  so  constantly  on 
the  go. 


BEYROUT 


LETTER  NO.  10. 


HAIFA,  SYRIA,  APRIL  5,  TUESDAY,  i:is  P.  A\. 


HILE  WE  are  waiting  for  the 
carriages  I  will  write  a  letter,  for 
I  will  have  no  other  opportun- 
ity of  doing  so  till  next  Saturday, 
and  probably  not  then,  for  we  will  be 
getting  ready  for  Jerusalem.  This  isaa 
beautiful  little  citv,  of  about  4^0<xf 
population  they  say.  It  is  right  on  the 
border  of  the  sea  and  about  18  of  us 
are  at  a  fine  new  hotel  overlooking  the 
sea  and  in  plain  view  of  Mt.  Carmel ; 
we  start  for  there  in  a  few  minutes.  We 
are  so  fortunate  to  be  in  party  No.  6, 
us  No.  5  was  so  crowded,  and  we  have 
the  best  conductor  of  all,  they  say.  I 
may  as  well  mention  his  name  now — Mr. 
Homstein.  We  have  just  bad  a  nice 
dinner;  how  1  wish  that  mamma  could 
eat  some  of  the  fine  oranges  they  grow 
here;  they  are  so  sweet  and  nothing  but 
juice.  The  people  of  this  country  use 
them  so  much  for  dessert;  they  call 
tlii'?!'.  "dessert"  on  the  bill  of  fare. 

I  want  to  tell  you  about  Beyrout; 
what  a  lovely  time  we  had  there.  \Y<- 
went  ashore  in  small  boats  (or  rather 
they  were  very  large  row  boats)  early  in 
urning.  The  sea  looked  very  calm, 
but  there  were  such  swells  that  when 
we  were  in  the  row  boat  one  of  the 


62  Beyroxit  

swells  would  completely  hide  the  other 
boats,  just  the  neads  of  the  people  in 
them  being  visible.  It  was  lovely  and 
did  not  make  us  one  bit  sea  sick.  I 
think  we  were  about  15  minutes  reach- 
ing shore.  As  soon  as  we  landed,  our 
tczkeras  (Turkish  passports;  were  de- 
manded of  us  and  then  we  all  scrambled 
for  a  carriage.  We  were  driven  to  the 
American  college,  went  through  the 
grounds  and  some  of  the  buildings — 
which  are  all  very  fine  and  made  of 
stone — then  into  the  large  chapel  or 
church  seating  700  people,  where  a  meet- 
ing was  held  and  splendid  speeches  were 
made,  by  the  founder,  Daniel  Bliss,  (an 
old  man  over  80  years  of  age),  by  his 
son,  the  president,  and  then  followed 
speeches  by  Dr.  Jessup  (as  Mr.  Warren 
says,  the  "Grand  Old  Man  of  the 
East"),  his  brother  Samuel  Jessup, 
teacher  at  the  college,  Dr.  Potts  of 
Canada,  Mr.  Warren,  McCrellis,  Harts- 
horn, etc.  It  was  such  an  enthusiastic 
meeting.  There  are  over  700  boys  of  all 
nationalities  in  the  college  and  they  are 
doing  a  great  work,  for,  of  course,  all 
the  teachers  are  Christian  men.  After 
the  meeting  Mrs.  Park  introduced  herself 
to  Mr.  Day,  a  professor  in  the  college 
and  the  organist;  he  is  a  friend  and 
teacher  of  Mr.  McElfresh.  He  married 
a  daughter  of  Dr.  Jessup,  and  the  presi- 
dent said  in  his  speech  that  he  had  a 
young  son,  Henry  Jessup  Day  (named 
for  the  doctor),  almost  a  year  old.  Mr. 
!!:iy  insisted  upon  our  sroing  home  with 
him,  saying  that  his  wife  had  told  him 
to  bring  some  people  home  to  dinner.  Of 
course,  we  were  delighted  at  the  pros- 
i •(•<•!,  for  otherwise  we  would  have  had  a 
cold  lunch  in  the  college  grounds,  and 
,  we  were  just  waiting  for  a 
to  P7;tor  a  typical  home.  The 
house  is  only  a  short  distance  from 


Beyrovzt  63 

the  college  grounds,  so  we  walked, 
and  soon  came  to  a  high  closed 
gate  in  one  of  the  stone  walls,  higher 
than  a  person's  head.  Mr.  Day  took 
out  his  keys  and  unlocked  the  door  or 
gate,  and  what  a  beautiful  sight  greeted 
our  eyes!  Green  trees,  flowers,  and  a 
fountain,  orange  and  lemon  trees  with 
fruit  and  blossoms  both  together,  the 
most  beautiful  Marachal  Niel  and  other 
roses,  geraniums  and  many  odd  flowers 
that  we  did  not  know,  also  a  Loquot 
tree  with  ripe  fruit.  We  walked  up  a 
short  flight  of  stone  steps,  a  bower  of 
roses  overhead,  and  entered  a  very  large 
high  hall  and  living  room.  The  end  we 
entered  is  all  glass,  set  in  designs,  clear 
up  to  the  very  high  ceiling,  giving  the 
room  the  appearance  of  being  out  of 
doors.  The  white  marble  floor  was 
covered  with  Turkish  rugs.  From  the 
sides  of  this  great  room  open  the  par- 
lor, bed-room,  and  dining-room.  You 
c:in  imagine  our  surprise  when  we  found 
there  before  us  (also  invited  to  dinner) 
Dr.  Jessup,  his  wife,  daughter,  and 
brother,  Mrs.  Barnes,  (at  the  head  of 
the  Primary  Sunday  ?chool  work  for  the 
world),  a  lady  missionary  from  Persia, 
another  one  from  Africa,  and  Mr.  Harts- 
horn, wife  and  daughter.  We  had  to 
wait  about  half  an  hour  for  dinner  so 
we  made  friends  with  the  baby  and  his 
pretty  little  native  nurse  and  then  went 
into  the  garden  and  wandered  about 
picking  the  flowers  and  enjoying  the 
sunshine.  We  had  a  very  nice  dinner 
and  such  a  pleasant  time.  Mrs.  Harts- 
horn, although  an  invalid,  seems  to  en- 
joy everything.  She  can  only  say  the 
words  yea  and  no,  but  the  variety  of 
expression  she  can  put  into  them!  I 
think  her  trouble  is  paralysis.  We  had 
to  leave  soon  after  dinner  to  do  our 
shopping;  postals,  and  some  sort  of  a 


64- Haifa 

souvenir  from  each  place,  we  always  try 
to  purchase,  so  Mr.  Day  went  with  us 
and  we  took  a  carriage  to  a  reliable 
bazaar.  Mrs.  Park  and  I  each  bought 
a  brass  tray  and  a  "puggerie"  such  as 
the  natives  wear  to  keep  the  sun  off 
the  head  and  shoulders— a  sort  of  hand- 
kerchief with  numerous  silk  tassels.  We 
also  sent  postals  from  here.  Beyrout  is 
such  a  beautiful  little  city,  situated  as 
it  is  on  the  low  hills  and  running  right 
down  to  the  sea,  and  then  on  one  side 
the  snow-capped  range  of  the  Lebanon 
mountains — it  looked  so  beautiful  as  we 
rowed  to  our  ship  in  the  twilight. 

The  next  morning  (today)  we  were 
at  Haifa  and  were  called  at  5:15.  No. 
4  (the  overland  horseback  to  Jerusa- 
lem) landed  first,  then  No.  5  (the  car- 
riage Galilee  trip)  and  then  oar  party, 
No.  6,  the  same  as  No.  5.  We  sat  on 
our  baggage  when  we  reached  shore 
(about  a  mile  from  our  boat)  and 
watched  the  others  start,  then  we  were 
taken  to  our  hotels  and  were  very  glad 
of  the  rest. 

Saturday,  April  9th. — I  will  take  up 
the  tale  where  I  left  off,  for  if  I  do  not 
am  afraid  I  will  never  get  back  to  it 
again,  for  we  have  had  such  an  inter- 
esting trip  into  Galilee.  Tuesday  morn- 
ing we  rested,  then  right  after  dinner 
the  carriages  came  and  took  us  up  to 
Mt.  Carmel,  overlooking  the  sea,  where 
Elijah  prayed  for  rain.  There  is  a 
monastery  built  there  over  a  cave  where 
Elijah  is  said  to  have  dwelt.  In  the 
same  range  of  mountains  farther  back 
is  where  Elijah  met  the  prophets  of 
Baal.  A  monastery  is  built  there  also. 
It  is  the  hirli-  -•!  ;  oint  in  the  range  and 
slopes  gradually  to  the  valloys  below. 
It  was  in  plain  view  almost  all  the  way 
to  the  Sea  of  Galilee  In  our  hack,  there 
were  three  young  ladies,  a  minister,  and 


To  Galilee Jx5 

myself,  and  coming  back  one  lady  pre- 
ferred to  walk,  so  one  of  our  young 
guides,  a  graduate  of  the  Jerusalem 
school,  took  her  place.  The  driver,  to 
our  great  surprise,  offered  to  take  us 
for  a  free  drive  to  the  postoffice  and 
then  to  the  beach,  so  we  thankfully  ac- 
cepted. The  view  of  Haifa  and  the 
land  lying  between  it  and  Mt.  Carmel, 
about  two  miles  down  the  coast,  was 
most  beautiful.  The  broad  Mediterra- 
nean, the  palm  trees  in  the  distance, 
the  stone  houses  gleaming  in  the  sun, 
the  fields,  some  just  plowed,  some  green, 
and  others  yellow  being  harvested 
by  hand— and  then  all  the  way  up  the 
mountain,  the  wild  red  poppies  and 
several  varieties  of  pink  and  yellow 
flowers.  We  uttered  exclamation  after 
exclamation  at  its  beauty. 

It  seems  to  me  that  I  have  used  up 
all  my  adjectives  and  have  nothing  left 
wherewith  to  describe  the  Galilee  trip, 
the  finest  of  all.  How  can  people  take 
such  a  trip  and  then  advise  us  never  to 
take  it  for  fear  of  being  disillusioned? 
To  me  it  has  been  one  of  the  greatest 
blessings  of  my  life,  to  visit  the  land 
of  the  Savior,  to  sleep  in  the  beautiful 
little  city  of  Nazareth  where  He  was 
raised,  to  waken  and  look  upon  the  same 
hills  that  His  eyes  looked  upon  —for 
those  mountains  surrounding  the  city 
never  change — and  then  to  go  to  the 
Sea  of  Galilee  and  ride  upon  the  water? 
that  He  calmed  so  long  ago,  so  beauti- 
ful— with  the  same  mountains  surround- 
ing it,  some  snow-capped  and  rugged, 
others  rising  gradually  from  the  sea 
and  carpeted  with  beautiful  flowers. 
Hereafter  everything  that  T  read  or 
hear  upon  the  subject  will  be  like  a 
new  revelation.  As  we  rode  along  I 
tried  to  write  down  a  word  now  and 
then  to  help  my  memory,  so  T  had  bet- 


66  To  Galilee 

ter  just  take  those  notes  and  tell  you 
about  it  as  it  happened.  We  were  called 
at  5  o'clock  again  and  were  on  our  way 
before  6.  In  my  search  for  a  carriage 
or  hack  with  a  comfortable  back,  on  my 
account,  and  for  one  with  a  *ow  step  on 
Mrs.  Park's  account,  we  lost  our  chance 
of  riding  together,  so  Mrs.  Park  went 
with  three  strangers,  one  couple  a  man 
and  wife;  and  I  rode  with  three  gentle- 
men, Canadians,  all  strangers  to  me. 
We  soon  became  acquainted  however 
and  I  was  in  good  hands.  Mr.  Hornstein 
tried  to  make  a  change  at  the  first  stop 
and  put  me  in  a  carriage  with  a  better 
back,  but  it  was  impossible  to  do  so  and 
we  rode  as  we  started  all  the  way  to 
Galilee  and  back.  But  to  begin  with 
my  notes;  we  were  held  up  by  a  soldier 
with  a  gun  at  the  gate  of  Haifa.  Excite- 
ment reigned  and  speculation  was  rife, 
for  our  conductor  was  in  the  rear  and 
no  one  but  the  drivers  could  understand 
the  language  of  the  soldier.  However, 
as  the  thermometer  of  language  heat 
dropped  lower  and  lower  we  felt  easier 
and  at  the  end  of  half  an  hour,  moved 
on,  a  cavalcade  of  23  carriages  accom- 
panied by  the  fierce  soldier  on  horse- 
back. Tt  seems  that  he  was  to  be  our 
body  guard  and  he  would  not  start  till 
he  had  rounded  us  all  up.  Our  carriage 
was  fourth  in  line  and  Mrs.  Park's 
third,  and  we  kept  about  this  position 
through  the  whole  trip,  as  the  drivers 
are  all  very  jealous  of  their  place  in 
the  line.  The  morning  was  beautiful, 
the  air  very  cold,  but  we  were  prepared 
and  were  warmly  dressed.  While  we 
were  rounding  up  at  Haifa  we  happened 
to  be  in  a  kind  of  an  open  space  or 
sq»;ire,  where  the  market  is  held  each 
morning,  and  at  that  early  hour  the  don- 
keys were  arriving  laden  with  potatoes, 
onions,  greens,  artichokes,  green  peas, 


eggs,  etc.    Each  load  was  laid  in  a  little 
pile  by  itself  right  on  the  dirty  ground 
and  when  all  had  arrived— in  about  halt' 
an    hour— the     auction    began.     Ever-"- 
thing  ig  auctioned  off  and  this  was     in 
progress  when   we  left,  the  auctioneer 
being  the  largest,  fleshiest  man  present 
Children,  donkeys  and  vegetables  were 
pretty  well   mixed,     and     the     cry     of 
"Back-sheesh"   (I  don't  know  how  to 
spell  it  in  our  language)  ranf  above  the 
thundering  tones  of  the  auctioneer.  The 
cry  means  "money,"  "a  present."  and 
is  always     accompanied     by     the     out- 
stretched  hand.     Young   and   old    alike 
cry  it  and  when  a  swarm  of  them  close 
in  about  you,  all  crying  the  same  thing, 
it's  hard   to  refrain  from   giving  th^m 
a    good   thrashing   with   vour   umbrella. 
When  we  got  out  into  the  countrv  we 
began  to  pass  long  lines  of  camels,  all 
laden,     tied     together     single  file,     and 
flocks  of  sheep  or  black  goats  following 
their  shepherds.     As  we  neared  a   well, 
numbers  of  women  would   pass  us  bal- 
ancing the  large  earthen  water  bottleo 
upon  their  heads.     They  carry  the  bot- 
tles for  miles  in  this  way  without  lift- 
ing their  hands;   and   dressed   as     thev 
always  are  in  their  native  costume  they 
are  very  picturesque.     The  bottles     nre 
about  a  foot  or  more  in  diameter     and 
about  two  feet  high,  with  a  small  mouth, 
so  von  can  see  that  they  are  very  heavv. 
Before  lifting    one     to    her     head     sh« 
makes  a  "hollow  coil  of  a  large  handker- 
chief— usually  a  filthy  rag — puts  this  on 
top  of  her  head  and  thou  thrt  bottle  on 
it.     Thev  carrv  everything  in  this  wnv. 
We  saw  them  going  to     work  on     the 
roads  each  carrying  a  large  basket   on 
her  head  and   in   it  from   one   to   three 
heavy  iron     pick     axes     with     handles 
nearly  three  feet  long.     In  contrast  to 
this  we  saw  them  going  to  market,  each 


66 TojOa  in  ee 

carrying  on  her  head  one  tiny  bread 
cake  only  a  half  inch  thick,  and  the 
greatest  feat  of  all — to  a  modern  mother 
—was  the  sight  of  a  woman  with  a  very 
large  basket  of  eggs  on  her  head  and  a 
good-sized  baby  in  one  arm  resting  on 
her  hip,  and  even  then  she  did  not  have 
her  "hands  full."  Beautiful  flowers 
lined  all  our  way  and  I  mieht  sav  here 
that  T  had  more  than  my  share  of  them, 
with  four  men  to  pick  them  for  me,  for 
our  driver  was  not  going  to  be  outdone 
and  every  little  while  he  would  present 
"Madame"  with  a  bouquet.  I  wore 
them  in  my  hat,  on  my  coat,  and  deco- 
rated the  hack  with  them.  We  had  not 
gone  far  till  we  saw  one  of  those  old 
primitive  plows  made  of  a  crooked 
stick  and  pulled  by  two  oxen.  I  was 
not  going  to  miss  my  chance,  so  I  grab- 
bed my  camera,  sprang  out  of  the  hack 
while  it  was  going,  ran  to  the  field,  took 
a  snap  shot,  and  was  returning  on  the 
run,  when  the  man  at  the  plow  took  af- 
ter me  for  "Back-sheesh."  Well,  I 
have  never  heard  the  last  of  it,  for,  of 
course,  the  whole  cavalcade  witnessed  it 
and  several  of  them  said  that  they 
would  give  a  good  deal  for  a  picture  of 
me  with  my  coat  flying  out  behind  and 
the  man  after  me.  I  returned  to  the 
hack,  jumped  in  while  it  was  going,  as 
T  did  not  want  to  stop  the  whole  line, 
and  was  greeted  by  one  of  my  friends 
thus:  "Well  you're  a  brick,  you're 
worth  a  whole  dozen  of  them. ' '  I 
thought  T  might  as  well  confess  now  as 
you  might  hear  it  from  somebody  else. 
At  the  end  of  our  journey  he  uttered  the 
same  exclamation  with  the  word  "thou- 
sand" in  the  place  of  "dozen"  but  that 
was  after  I  had  passed  through  a 
whole  morning  of  sickness  in  the  bot- 
tom of  the  hack,  and  he,  Mr.  Johnson, 
had  been  my  doctor.  I  shall  never  for- 


To  Galilee  69 

get  his  kindness  to  me.  We  went  out 
of  our  way  a  few  rods  to  water  our 
horses  at  the  first  well  we  passed;  there 
were  a  number  of  girls  there  getting 
water  and  I  tried  to  get  a  picture  of 
them.  It  looked  just  like  an  ordinary 
well,  except  that  there  was  a  stone  wall 
built  around  it  and  stone  steps  up  the 
front;  the  water  was  near  the  surface 
so  did  not  have  to  be  drawn.  The  next 
well  we  passed  was  below  us  and  re- 
minded me  of  the  story  of  Jacob,  for 
there  were  the  maidens  and  the  flocks 
and  herds — such  fine  cattle  all  through 
the  country;  they  look  like  the  Kansas 
cattle.  Yesterday  morning  on  our  way 
home  we  saw  a  half  dozen  herds,  some 
with  over  a  hundred  in  them,  in  one 
locality,  being  driven  to  water.  The 
people  are  all  in  villages  and  I  think 
it  is  on  account  of  the  water.  It  is  so 
scarce.  We  passed  a  very  old  town — 
not  much  left  of  it — a  place  mentioned 
in  the  Old  Te&tament,  Asharosheth 
(Judges  4).  We  stopped  for  half  an 
hour  in  a  beautiful  spot  about  10 
o'clock  in  the  morning  to  eat  our  or- 
anges and  crackers.  We  had  flowers  for 
a  carpet  and  fig  and  olive  and  other 
trees  for  shade.  As  we  went  along  we 
passed  a  few  large  orchards  of  mulber- 
ry trees  with  vegetable  gardens  between 
and  the  women  were  doing  all  the  wa- 
tering by  hand.  We  descended  into  a 
valley  and  then  climbed  a  very  high 
mountain  where  we  all  stopped  and 
the  guide  pointed  out  the  interesting 
sights  to  us.  I  can  never  describe  the 
view  from  this  point,  the  beauty  of  the 
cultivated  valleys  and  the  barren  moun- 
tains. That  beautiful  view  away  over 
in  Polk  county  (Oregon)  from  the  top 
of  the  hill,  comes  the  nearest  to  it 
of  anything  I  have  ever  seen,  but,  of 
course,  it  has  not  the  historic  interest 


7O  To  Galilee 

added.  At  our  feet  lay  the  plain  of 
Jezreel;  the  city,  at  the  foot  of  the  hills 
across  from  us,  where  Ahab  and  Jeze- 
bel dwelt;  the  brook  Kishon  still  run- 
ning near  it,  -where  the  prophets  were 
slain;  above  it  Mt.  Carmel  where  Elijah 
offered  the  sacrific;  at  the  right  of  us 
Mt.  Tabor;  away  off  in  the  distance  the 
two  mountains.  Ebal  and  Gerizim,  so 
close  together  that  the  people  shouted 
back  and  forth  to  one  another  ,and,  had 
it  been  clear  we  could  have  seen  the 
snow-capped  Mt.  Hermon  above  the  sea 
of  Galilee.  Isn't  that  a  wonderful  pan- 
orama? Oh,  yes,  and  I  left  out  Mt.  Gil- 
boa — right  in  front  of  us.  Saul  and 
Jonathan  were  slain  there.  We  had 
music  in  our  hack  as  we  went  along, 
usually  suggested  by  the  scenes  around 
us.  Many  of  the  old  towns  that  we 
passed  looked  as  ancient  as  the  stone 
of  which  they  were  made.  As  the  houses 
all  hnve  flat  roofs,  whole  towns  are  cov- 
ered with  frrass,  for  it  is  regular  sod  on 
top  of  the  stone  roof,  just  like  the  hills, 
but  not  a  blade  of  it  grows  under  foot 
in  the  villaeres,  and  signs  of  life  appear 
only  as  we  draw  near,  and  then  the  road 
is  lined  with  the  natives  calling  for 
"Back-sheesh."  Tell  Mildred  that  the 
children  have  swings  here,  too.  As  we 
drove  along  T  looked  ahead  and  snw 
n  parly  two  dozen  children  gathered 
about  a  swing  near  the  road.  I  wanted 
to  get  their  picture,  so  T  jumped  out  of 
the  hack  and  ran  along  with  the 
hack  in  front  of  us,  so  that  they  would 
not  see  me,  then  stepped  to  the  side  of 
the  road  and  took  a  snap  shot  of  them; 
but  I'm  afraid  the  swing  itself  did  not 
show  so  I'll  tell  you  about  it.  It  was 
a  double  rope  stretched  between  two 
trees  about  as  far  apart  as  we  would 
swing  a  hammock,  the  ropes  came  to- 
gether in  the  center,  then  spread  apart, 


NazaretH  71 

making  a  suspended  swing  a 'foot  or 
two  wide,  where  two  children  sat;  they 
were  having  great  fun.  The  children 
all  seemed  to  be  happy. 

As  we  reached  the  top  of  a  high  hill, 
suddenly  Nazareth  burst  into  view  and 
how  beautiful  it  looked.  As  we  de- 
scended into  the  city  where  our  Lord 
was  "brought  up"  we  were  busy  with 
our  own  thoughts  and  it  was  a  silent 
but  happy  party  that  alighted  at  the 
different  hotels  and  convents.  We  were 
tired  and  hungry  too,  so  did  not  wait 
for  the  second  call  when  luncheon  was 
announced  soon  after  our  arrival.  In 
the  afternoon  we  walked  about  the 
town,  visiting  the  churches  and  other 
sights,  including  the  supposed  place 
where  the  maddened  populace  tried  to 
throw  Christ  down  the  side  of  the  moun- 
tain, but  the  most  interesting  ol  all  was 
Mary's  well  which  furnishes  water  to 
almost  the  entire  population  of  about 
35,000,  as  there  is  only  one  other  well 
in  the  city.  i'rom  sunrise  to  sunset, 
there  are  a  dozen  or  more  young  girls 
from  12  to  15  years  of  age  at  the  foun- 
tain or  well,  getting  water,  and  I  am 
sorry  to  relate  that  they  are  usually 
quarreling  over  their  turn,  for  only 
about  two  can  get  water  at  the  same 
time.  They  are  all  dressed  in  the  cost- 
ume of  the  country  and  that  is  usually 
various  colored  rags,  but  now  and  then 
a  bride  dressed  in  silk  and  velvet  will 
come  to  the  well  and  mingle  with  the 
rags.  We  saw  one  poor  girl  break  down 
and  cry  because  the  girls  would  not  let 
her  have  her  turn.  Isn  t  it  strange  to 
think  that  this  well  has  been  there  and 
sustained  the  life  of  that  city  for  cen- 
turies upon  centuries  and  Mary  must 
have  carried  water  from  this  well  day 
after  day.  We  who  have  an  abundant 
supply  of  water  cannot  imagine  what  a 


72  Tiberias 

serious  question  it  is  to  every  home- 
buikler  in  this  country,  for  if  he  keeps 
flocks  and  herds  he  must  ue  near  a 
well.  When  the  women  wash,  they  take 
the  clothes  to  the  well  and  beat  them 
with  a  club  on  the  rocks;  we  saw  them 
doing  that  at  Cana.  Soon  after  the 
sun  set  over  the  hills  at  Nazareth,  we 
went  to  bed,  lor  we  had  to  prepare 
again  for  an  early  start  the  next 
morning.  We  had  another  lovely  dawn 
and  we  rode  over  the  beautiful  moun- 
tains and  plains  until  about  11  o'clock, 
when  we  halted  on  the  top  of  one  of 
the  high  mountains  overlooking  the 
sea  of  Galilee.  On  the  west  side  and 
right  at  our  feet,  at  the  water's  edge, 
lay  Tiberias.  We  all  climbed  out  and 
gathered  about  our  guide  while  he 
pointed  out  to  us  the  interesting  sights. 
Close  to  our  left  was  the  mount  of  Beat- 
itudes, a  little  further  on  all  that  is  left 
of  the  city  of  Bethsaida,  still  further  on 
also  at  the  water's  edge  the  site  of 
Capernaum,  marked  by  a  monastery, 
then  just  by  the  side  of  it  the  Jordan 
emptying  into  the  sea.  Back  of  it  was 
the  beautiful  snow-capped  Mt.  Hermon, 
the  supposed  mount  of  transfiguration. 
Across  the  lake  from  us,  here  about 
seven  miles  wide,  is  the  country  of  the 
Gadarenes  (Mark  5,  1-20).  It  is  very  no- 
ticeable as  it  seems  to  slope  right  into 
the  sea.  On  the  mountain  on  which  we 
were  standing  grew  only  grass,  flowers 
and  low  thorn  bushes,  the  latter  having 
both  dry  thorns  and  green  leaves.  We 
hurried  on  down  to  Tiberias,  where  we 
met  crowd  No.  5  preparing  to  return  to 
Xa/.nroth.  As  soon  as  they  were  off 
we  had  luncheon,  then,  leaving  Mrs. 
Park  taking  a  nap,  1  took  my  camera 
and  went  out  ;<t  !!;<•  side  of  the  hotel  to 
take  a  picture  of  an  old  arch  in  ruins. 
The  sun  \v:is  not  out  just  then,  so  I 


Sea  of  Galilee  73 


engaged  in  conversation  with  some  na- 
tive boys.  Of  course,  it  was  all  sign 
language  at  iirst,  then  I  began  to  teach 
them  the  name  of  colors  in  English. 
This  pleased  them  so  much,  and  also  the 
by-standers,  that  I  soon  had  six  or  eight 
Arab  men  in  my  audience,  and  when  I 
spied  a  cat  and  meowed  like  one,  their 
delight  knew  no  bounds  and  one  old 
Arab  insisted  upon  showing  me  through 
the  old  mosque  near  by.  I  refused  and 
went  back  to  the  hotel,  but,  before  this, 
three  Turkish  women,  closely  veiled, 
came  up  to  me,  and  one  of  them  caress- 
ea  my  cheeks  with  her  hand  and  smooth- 
ed the  back  of  my  hah,  (the  wrong 
way),  all  of  which  I  endured  with  a 
smile.  She  invited  me  by  signs  to  her 
house  but  I  was  forced  to  refuse.  When 
I  reached  the  front  door  of  the  hotel  it 
was  locked,  so  I  pounded  and  waited  but 
no  one  came;  nnally  one  of  the  cooks 
c.Hiu!  iii  from  the  kitchen,  which  was  in 
the  back  yard,  and  I  called  to  him  and 
he  let  me  in.  I  found  Mrs.  Park  asleep, 
and  such  a  silence  reigned  in  tiic  hotel 
that  I  became  alarmed  with  the  thought 
that  they  had  all  gone  in  the  boats  on 
the  sea  of  Galilee.  1  soon  found  out  by 
signs  from  one  of  the  servants  that 
such  was  the  case,  and  calling  Mrs. 
,  I  told  the  servant  to  escort  her, 
and  1  ran  with  cloaks  and  wraps  on  my 
arm,  in  the  direction  of  the  sea,  down 
some  dirty  narrow  streets  win  rr  I  innl 
never  been,  asking  one  woman  on  the 
way  if  I  was  going  in  the  right  direc- 
tion. Well,  I  came  suddenly  upon  the 
shore  just  as  Mr.  Hornstein  was  push- 
ing out  from  shore  in  the  last  boat.  I 
"yelled,"  you  may  believe,  and  he 
wailed  till  Mrs.  Park  arrived,  puffing 
and  steaming,  for  it  was  a  \vniin  day. 
After  all  it  turned  out  the  very  best 
Cor  •>',  for  we  \vere  alone  \vith  two 


7-4-  Sea  of  Galilee 

guides  and  the  oarsmen,  and  our  boat 
landed  right  at  the  site  of  Capernaum, 
while  nearly  all  the  others  landed  about 
a  mile  away,  because  it  was  so  rough, 
and,  of  course,  the  people  had  to  walk. 
We  landed  easily,  too,  while  they  had 
to  be  carried  to  shore  by  the  oarsmen, 
who  shed  most  of  their  clothes  before 
the  undertaking.  I  shall  never  forget 
that  sail  on  the  sea  of  Galilee,  and  it 
was  just  stormy  enough  before  we  re- 
turnell  to  be  exciting.  We  were  a  little 
wet  from  the  waves,  but  on^  of  our 
guides  was  drenched  and  took  cold  rid- 
iug  so  long  in  his  wet  clothes.  There  is 
nothing  left  at  Capernaum  but  a  few 
pieces  of  the  temple,  and  at  Bethsaida 
we  did  not  even  land.  Both  places  are 
mni'lied  by  a  monastery.  We  were  about 
live  hours  on  the  water,  sailing  very 
lust,  so  you  can  imagine  the  great  dis- 
tance although  it  seems  so  near.  It  was 
nearly  dark  when  we  reached  Tiberias 
and  we  needed  every  wrap  we  took 
along.  The  boatmen  raced  with  one 
another  nearly  all  the  way,  and  when 
we  beat  several  boats  our  oarsmen 
would  say  to  us  "Good!  Madam?"  and 
we  would  answer  "Good."  We  had  to 
give  "Baek-sheesh"  when  we  landed, 
and  one  bout  would  not  land  passengers 
till  they  had  taken  up  what  they  con- 
sidered a  sum'cient  collection.  The  fur- 
ther inland  we  got,  the  worse  the  table 
fare,  and  1  was  so  turned  against  the 
food  that  1  ate  something  that  did  not 
agree  with  me.  I  did  it  out  of  pity  for 
the  waiters,  too,  for  1  saw  that  the  peo- 
ple were  not  taking  any  of  the  dish. 
Tho  result  was  that  1  got  up  the  next 
ruoiuing,  sick.  Well,  I  held  my  head  up 
for  about  two  miles  out  of  Tiberias, 
then  I  sat  down  on  some  blankets  in 
the  bottom  of  the  hack  and  laid  my 


Sea  of  Galilee  75 

head  on  a  pillow  which  Mr.  Hornstein 
very  kindly  got  for  me  at  Nazareth,  on 
our . way  the  first  day.  My  friend,  Mr. 
Johnson,  offered  me  some  medicine  that 
he  had  cured  a  man  with  the  day  be- 
fore in  our  party,  but  1  refused,  think- 
ing the  pain  would  leave  me;  but  it 
grew  so  bad  that  I  begged  for  a  good 
strong  dose  and  then  later  on  a  second 
one,  so  by  the  time  I  reached  Nazareth 
at  noon,  I  could  sit  up.  Fortunately  we 
remained  till  the  next  morning,  so  1 
lay  down  on  the  bed  and  stayed  there, 
and  at  4  o'clock  the  next  morning  when 
we  were  called,  I  had  entirely  recovered, 
except  that  I  was  a  little  weak.  1  can 
never  forget  the  kindness  of  my  three 
friends  and  the  driver  also,  for  the  lat- 
ter refrained  from  smoking  cigarettes 
on  my  account  and  gave  me  some  native 
medicine  which  I  pretended  to  take  but 
threw  away;  it  looked  and  smelled  like 
sage.  We  reached  the  boat  about  10:iiU 
that  morning — which  was  the  day  be- 
fore yesterday,  Saturday— and  when  i 
went  up  to  luncheon  there  stood  Mrs. 
Park  with  two  letters  and  a  postal  for 
me.  If  they  had  dropped  from  the  sky 
I  could  not  have  been  more  surprised 
for  no  one  was  getting  mail  there.  The 
letter  sent  to  Constantinople  I  did  not 
receive;  these  were  two,  sent  to  Bey- 
rout  It  was  such  a  comfort  to  hear 
from  home,  the  first  for  a  month. 

Sunday  morning  we  were  saddened 
by  the  news  of  the  death  of  one  of  our 
passengers,  a  Mrs.  Brown  of  Marshall- 
town,  iowa.  She  had  heart  trouble  and 
was  very  sick  on  the  No.  5  Galilee  trip, 
and  was  really  dying  when  she  reached 
the  boat  Saturday  morning.  Her  hus- 
band was  with  her,  and  one  adopted 
grown  son  is  at  home.  Her  body  is  in 
a  metallic  casket  on  board  and  will 
probably  be  shipped  to  America.  She 


76    Joppa 

was  such  a  pleasant  lady,  and  often 
paused  at  our  table  to  say  ' '  Good  morn- 
ing."  One  lady  on  board  called  her 
the  "Good  morning  lady"  because  she 
was  always  so  pleasant.  I  think  Mr. 
Brown  will  go  on  to  Jerusalem  with  the 
cruise. 

Well,  I  am  actually  caught  up  with 
today,  Monday.  It  hasn't  been  a 
pleasant  day  at  all,  in  one  sense,  for 
there  has  been  a  rough  sea  on,  ever 
since  we  left  Haifa  early  this  morning, 
and  it  is  all  Mrs.  Park  and  I  can  do  to 
keep  our  heads  level,  our  feet  steady 
and  our  stomachs  under  control,  and 
there  are  many  in  the  same  condition. 
We  have  our  taggage  packed  ready  for 
Jerusalem  and  we  have  been  anchored 
here  at  Joppa  for  about  six  hours.  This 
is  the  most  difficult  landing  of  all,  and 
the  condition  of  things  you  will  under- 
stand from  the  following  conversation 
which  took  place  between  Mr.  Warren 
and  the  captain: 

' '  Captain,  are  we  going  to  land  pret- 
ty soon?" 

"I  don't  care  to  go  ashore,  do  you?" 

"But  captain,  do  you  think  it  advisa- 
ble to  land?" 

"Do  you  see  any  boats  coming,  Mr. 
Warren?.' 

We  may  stav  here  for  days  for  all 
we  know.  It  is  pleasant  weather 
but  there  is  a  strong  wind  and  the  fpray 
is  dashing  very  high  at  the  landing. 

I'arties  No.  7  and  8  went  ashore  yes- 
terday at  Haifa  to  start  on  the  Galilee 
trip  today.  It  is  dangerous  to  drink 
any  water  on  that  trip  unless  it  is  boil- 
ed and  several  of  our  party  were  sick 
from  doing  it.  We  ate  oranges  instead, 
mid  drank  lemonade.  A  number  on  the 
overland  horseback  trip,  like  the  one  we 
were  first  booked  for,  gave  out  and  had 
to  return  in  carriages.  We  are  so  thank- 


Joppa 

ful  to  think  that  we  did  not  try  it,  and 
how  we  pitied  the  poor  things  when  we 
met  them  on  the  way,  some  of  them 
miles  apart.  Our  party  was  the  best 
organized  of  all;  we  were  the  only  ones 
that  kept  together.  Mr.  ±iornstein,  to 
whom  the  credit  is  due,  goes  to  Jerusa- 
lem with  us,  and  on  side-trips  from 
there. 

I  forgot  to  say  that  we  had  a  splendid 
sermon  yesterday  by  a  missionary  from 
Beyrout.  We  had  a  very  good  Sunday 
school,  too,  considering  the  number  on 
board,  and  how  tired  they  were. 

There  are  no  signs  of  landing  yet,  so 
I  will  close  this  and  write  to  London. 
Am  so  thankful  for  a  little  time  that  I 
don't  mind  the  delay. 


JERUSALEM 

LETTER  NO.  11. 

JERUSALEM,  THURSDAY,  APRIL  14,  1904. 


T  IS  ALREADY  late,  so  I  can  only 
start  a  letter  tonight.  There  is  so  much 
to  tell  and  so  little  time  in  which  to  tell 
it,  for  it  is  almost  impossible  to  find 
time  to  write. 

We  are  here  at  the  Notre  Dime  and 
consider  ourselves  fortunate  to  have  a 
room  on  the  ground  floor.  Tourists  are 
everywhere,  especially  outside  the  walls 
and  going  on  trips.  This  place  (a  mon- 
astery) and  the  Hotel  du  Pare,  where 
most  of  us  are  stowed  away,  are  outside 
the  old  walls.  T  was  counting  the  peo- 
ple in  our  dining  room  tonight;  there 
were  about  350  seated,  and  then  there 
is  a  smaller  dining  room,  seating,  I  im- 
agine, about  200.  Tonight  at  the  close  of 
dinner  the  electric  lights  were  suddenly 
turned  6ff  and  a  large  cross  of  275  elec- 
tric lights  burned  at  one  end  of  the 
room.  We  sunv  "Tn  the  Cross  of  Christ 
I  Glory,''  led  by  Mr.  Jacobs,  then 
"Nearer  My  God  to  Thee"  and  the 
larro  hplls  fairly  rang  with  the  swoet 
music.  The  cross  was  made  for  the 
Spanish  pilgrims  who  were  here  last 
week;  there  were  thousands  of  Russian 
pilgrims  here,  tor ;  we  passed  train- 


6O  Joppa 

loads  of  them  going  to  Joppa.  Poor,  is 
no  name  for  them;  thev  were  in  rags, 
l>nt  their  devotion  puts  us  to  shame. 

Friday  noon,  April  15th.— I  have  just 
returned  from  my  donkey  ride  around 
the  walls  of  Jerusalem,  but  I  have  not 
yet  told  you  about  landing  at  Joppa,  so 
[  will  begin  there.  As  you  know,  we 
could  not  land  Monday— it  was  too 
rough — so,  in  obedience  to  a  signal  from 
shore,  we  were  called  the  next  morning 
before  daybreak.  Had  breakfast  at 
4:30  and  then  went  up  on  deck  to  wait 
for  the  boats.  Tt  was  nearly  an  hour 
before  they  came  and  as  we  sav  them 
coming  our  hearts  sank  within  us,  for 
they  fairly  stood  up  on  end;  and  poor 
Mrs.  Park,  she  didn  't  look  at  all  happy. 
I  saw  that  the  sea  was  gettirg  rougher 
every  moment,  so  made  up  my  mind  if 
possible  to  be  in  the  first  boat.  They 
loaded  about  50  pieces  of  baggage  into 
it  (saw  mine  safely  thrown  in,  but  some- 
body's suit  case  floated  in  the  briny 
deep  several  moments  before  it  was 
rescued)  then  they  called  for  passen- 
gers. I  made  my  way  to  the  front,  pull- 
ing Mrs.  Park  after  me;  had  hold  of  her 
arm  and  wouldn't  let  go.  Well  it  was 
too  funny  getting  into  that  boat!  Two 
men  lifted  each  person  and  it  was  a 
queer  sensation,  being  borne  through 
the  air  feeling  with  your  feet  for  some- 
thing to  stand  on  and  finding  nothing.  I 
was  landed  safely,  however,  in  the  mid- 
dle of  the  boat  and  while  I  was  busy 
gathering  myself  together,  a  shout  rent 
the  air,  and  looking  up  I  saw  Mrs.  Park 
going  through  space;  she  was  more  than 
they  calculated  on,  but  she  lit  safely 
just  in  front  of  me.  I  was  sorry  I 
missed  part  of  the  show,  for  it  seemed 
to  stir  the  crowd  to  the  depths.  Get- 
ting out  it  was  even  worse,  and  she  was 
a  sight  when  she  landed,  with  her  hat 


Jerusalem  61 

on  one  ear  and  her  veil  down  around 
her  neck,  her  arms  hanging  limp  at  .her 
side,  almost  pulled  out  of  their  sockets. 
I  have  just  had  another  laugh  at  the 
recollection,  till  the  tears  fairly  rolled 
down  my  cheeks;  it  was  so  funny.  She 
is  thinking  of  starting  from  here  Tues- 
day to  avoid  the  crowd  and  to  get  land- 
ed safely  on  the  boat,  as  it  is  so  much 
harder  when  they  hurry  you  so.  That 
landing  was  an  experience  that  1  shall 
never  forget.  We  were  in  the  largest 
row-boat  I  ever  saw,  but  even  then  we 
pitched  and  rolled  dreadfully.  We  met 
hundreds  of  Russian  Pilgrims  in  small 
boats,  praying  for  their  lives  on  the  way 
out,  and  we  heard  that  one  boat  load 
was  swamped  in  the  breakers  and  one 
or  two  persons  drowned.  Our  ship's 
doctor  said  the  sea  was  very  rough  that 
morning  and  I  think  they  would  not 
have  landed  us  if  the  boat  had  not  had 
to  go  back  to  Haifa  for  the  other  crowd. 
We  walked  a  few  blocks  through 
Joppa  then  took  carriages  to  the  sta- 
tion. We  were  fortunate  enough  to  get 
seats  in  the  first  train  to  Jerusalem,  the 
special  starting  about  an  hour  later. 
Joppa  is  celebrated  for  its  oranges,  and 
the  sweet  scent  from  the  groves  was 
very  noticeable  on  the  Kurfurst,  an- 
chored about  two  miles  from  shore.  We 
passed  many  points  of  interest  on  the 
way  and  all  got  out  and  ran  down  to 
the  brook  for  stones,  when  we 
passed  the  mountain  where  David  killed 
Goliath.  We  also  saw  Samson 's  cave 
in  the  very  top  of  a  mountain.  The 
sceneo-y  all  through  the  mountains  is 
much  like  the  Denver  &  Eio  Grande. 
However,  near  Jerusalem  all  the  availa- 
ble flat  land  is  cultivated,  each  tiny 
piece  bounded  on  all  sides  by  a  stone 
wall  and  these  are  evenly  terraced 
clear  back  to  the  mountains.  Suddenly 


82  Jerusalem 

the  walls  of  Jerusalem  hurst  into  view 
and   the   first   building     we   recognized 
was  the  mosque  of  Omar,  the  site   of 
Solomon's  temple.     Jerusalem  certainly 
is  not  at  all  as  T  imagined  it— so  much 
larger  in  every  way,  and  the  mountains 
i round  the  city  are  higher  and  the  view 
from  almost  anv  point  is  a  jrrnnd  one; 
but  inside  the  walls,  so  far  as  we  have 
seen  it,  it  is  a   compact  mass  of  filthv 
hnmanitv,  impossible  for  a  lady  to  walk 
the  streets  alone.     In  the  Jewish  Quar- 
ter there  is  no  vacant  space  whatever  in 
the  street,  we  did  not  go  there  but  just 
looked.     We  arrived  at  our  hotel  at     1 
o'clock  and  heard  that  a  party  would 
start   for  Jericho   and   Jordan   at   2:30, 
and    tired  as     we  were,  we  decided  to 
take  it  that  dav  if  we  could  get  hold  of 
our  baggage;  so  after  luncheon  we  hur- 
ried down  to  Clark's  office  for  mail  and 
T  was  so  happy  to  hear  from  home.  Mrs. 
Park  also  received  letters,  but  we  could 
not  read  them  then,  for  we  had  to  look 
up  our  baggage.     As  we  left  the  office 
thev  were  unloading  it  right  there,  so 
we  picked  out  ours,  paid  a  man  to  carrv 
it   to   our  room,   and   almost  before  we 
knew  it.  we  were  in  a  carriage  on  our 
wav  to  Jericho.    We  saw  nothing  as  we 
left  Jerusalem,  for  we  were  buried   in 
our  letters— but   when    we    dirl    lift    ovr 
eyes,  we  were  in  the  wilderness,  and  a 
wilderness  of  hifrh     mountains  it  was: 
it's  no  wonder  that  that  poor  man  fell 
among  thieves  on   his  way  to   Jericho. 
The  roads  are  very  fine,  but  the  drivers 
are    reckless.    We    were    fortunate    in 
having  a  careful  one,  however:  he  had 
three  horses  s».nd  would  only  take  three 
passengers— a  Mr.  Pomeroy  of  Vermont 
and  ourselves.     The  gentleman  proved  a 
very  good  traveling  companion.    He  had 
a. brother  who  worked   in   the   Reform 
School  at  home,  and  who  died  there  a 


Jericho  83 

number  of  years  ago.  Our  trip  into  Jer- 
icho was  very  pleasant,  but  you  can 
imagine  we  were  very  tired  getting  up 
so  early  that  morning.  We  stopped  at  a 
queer  little  hotel  called  the  Gilgal.  The 
room  was  very  good,  such  as  we  would 
find  in  a  mountain  hotel  at  home,  but 
the  food — well  the  further  inland  we  go 
the  worse  it  gets,  and  it's  dangerous  to 
drink  the  water.  When  we  were  com- 
ing down  into  Jericho  from  the  last 
high  barren  mountain,  after  a  four 
hours'  ride,  the  green  of  the  valley 
looked  so  refreshing;  but  I  never  ex- 
perienced anything  so  deceiving,  for, 
green  as  it  was,  the  trees  were  thorn 
bushes,  and  only  those  through  the 
whole  valley,  except  a  few  banana  and 
other  trees  right  in  the  little  town. 
At  the  supper  table  that  night  they 
announced  that  for  our  good  and  for 
the  good  of  the  crowd  to  come  from 
Jerusalem  the  next  day,  we  would 
be  called  at  4  o'clock  the  next  morning. 
We  are  still  looking  for  the  "good"  it 
did,  for  we  got  Lack  to  that  hotel  from 
our  Dead  Sea  and  Jordan  trip  the  next 
morning  before  9  o  'clock,  and  did  not 
start  for  Jerusalem  till  1  o'clock, 
and  the  Jerusalem  crowd  did  not 
arrive  till  12  o'clock.  Well,  it  was  not 
yet  light  when  we  started  for  the  Dead 
Sea  that  morning  and  those  of  us  with 
cameras  were  worrying  for  fear  that 
there  would  not  be  enough  light  for  a 
picture,  for  the  sea  looked  only  half  a 
mile  away;  but  we  drove  on  and  on  and 
the  sun  rose  over  the  beautiful  moun- 
tains the  other  side  of  the  Jordan  be- 
fore we  were  within  a  mile  or  two  of 
the  sea.  It  is  rightly  named;  it  is  dead, 
dead,  dead,  and  everything  near  it  looks 
dead;  a  few  had  the  ambition  to  take  a 
bath  at  that  early  hour,  and  as  bathing 
suits  were  not  furnished  we  had  to  turn 


&4-  Dead  Sea 

our  backs  and  look  unconcerned.  In  my 
search  for  something  to  take  with  the 
sea,  to  make  a  picture  of  it  interesting, 
a  little  way  up  the  beach  I  spied  a 
kind  of  screen  of  dried  palm  trees,  and 
made  for  it  with  my  camera.  As  I  drew 
quite  near  I  saw  signs  which  made  me 
hesitate  and  I  suddenly  called  out: 
"Oh,  is  that  a  bath  house?  I  was  going 
over  to  the  other  side  to  take  a  picture 
of  it;"  then  as  I  saw  more  "bare" 
signs,  a  voice  from  behind  the  screen 
called  out:  "Oh  no,  don't  take  it  just 
now,  please." 

Our  driver  hurried  us  on  to  the  Jor- 
dan, and  it  is  a  beautiful  spot  there; 
such  fine  foliaged  trees  all  along  its 
banks  and  the  water  is  so  clear.  [  had 
Mr.  Pomeroy  take  ouv  pictures  there. 
Curios  are  for  sale  at  every  place  the 
tourists  visit,  and  I  bought  a  little 
string  of  beads  there,  made  from  a  kind 
of  seed  that  grows  on  the  trees  of  the 
Jordan.  On  our  way  back  to  Jerusalem 
we  passed  the  spot  where  it  is  supposed 
the  Children  of  Israel  set  up  the  twelve 
stones;  it  is  the  site  of  Gilgal,  and  we 
also  visited  old  Jericho,  the  latter  very 
near  the  new  site.  We  got  back  to  the 
hotel  about  9  o'clock  and  had  no  place 
to  go,  for  they  said  the  "corns  were 
made  up  for  the  next  crowd.  Well,  we 
were  just  about  worn  out,  getting  up  so 
early,  so  I  found  a  key  in  another  door 
that  would  fit  our  room — and  the  room 
had  not  been  cleaned  yet,  so  I  got  Mrs. 
Park  and  we  just  rested  there  till  noon, 
and  no  one  was  any  the  wiser  or  worse 
off.  We  starte>l  at  1  o'clock  in  the  ter- 
rible heat  —  for  at  12  it  began  to  get 
very  warm,  the  first  ana  last  hot  day  we 
•  ive  had.  Just  about  a  mile  out  of 
.;»richo  we  camo  to  a  long,  high,  rocky 
hill,  and  the  drivers  all  stopped  for  the 
men  to  walk  up  this  hill.  Before  we 


JericHo  63 

reached  it  Mrs.  Park  said  that  she  was 
going  to  walk  up  because  she  was  so 
heavy  to  pull,  but  I  knew  that  it  would 
almost  kill  her  if  she  did,  in  that  awful 
heat,  and  I  made  up  my  mind  that  she 
shouldn't.  So  when  our  driver  told  her 
to  get  out  at  the  foot  of  the  hill  my 
"dander"  was  up,  for  I  had  not  seen  a 
single  lady  walking.  I  knew  that  it 
would  kill  me,  and  just  because  there 
was  a  little  more  of  her,  I  didn't  see 
why  she  shoud  sacrifice  herself  for  a 
horse,  and  we  had  three  of  them,  while 
the  majority  of  carriages  with  four 
passengers  only  had  two.  While  we 
stood  there  at  the  foot  of  the  hill  we 
almost  came  to  blows.  I  had  to  fight 
Mrs.  Park,  the  driver,  and  the  guide, 
whom  the  latter  had  called  to  his  aid. 
I  held  the  door  stint  with  all  my  might, 
while  Mrs.  Park  tried  with  all  her 
strength  to  open  it,  and  there  we  were; 
finally  the  driver  picked  up  the  lines, 
mumbled  something  and  went  ahead. 
Mrs.  Park  said,  since,  that  I  just  talk- 
ed awfully  cross  to  her,  but  she  needs 
someone  to  watch  out  for  her,  and  I  tell 
her  that  she  hasn't  enough  "cheek"  to 
travel  on  and  that  I  just  have  to  ac- 
quire enough  for  both.  Whenever  she 
wants  to  do  things  beyond  her  strength 
I  just  say  "Remember  Gibraltar;"  we 
climbed  a  hill  there  and  did  not  get 
over  it  for  a  week,  and  the  one  at  Jeri- 
cho was  three  times  as  bad  and  ten 
times  as  hot.  We  reached  Jerusalem 
that  evening,  Wednesday,  in  time  for 
a  late  supper,  but  oh  what  a  long  hot 
drive  it  was;  however,  we  were  very 
glad  that  we  took  it  first,  before  the 
rush.  (This  is  Sunday  evening,  the  17th, 
and  a  lady  sat  by  me  tonight  at  supper 
who  just  returned  from  the  Jericho  trip 
today  noon,  and  she  said  that  one  car- 
riage went  over  a  bank  with  four  peo- 


ft6  Jerusalem 

pie,  but  no  one  seriously  hurt;  on  an- 
other carriage  one  wheel  broke  all  to 
pieces,  and  on  their  carriage  there  were 
three  breaks  about  the  harness,  one  al- 
most resulting  seriously.  You  see  those 
carriages  have  been  going  steadily  now 
for  over  two  weeks  and  they  are  almost 
worn  out  and  the  poor  horses  too). 

The  next  morning — Thursday — we 
started  out  for  the  mosoue  of  Omar, 
walking;  we  stopped  to  buy  something 
from  a  man;  he  could  not  make  chanre, 
and  he  wouldn  't  take  the  articles  back, 
so  we  were  delayed  only  one  minute  but 
our  guide  had  disappeared.  We  did  not 
want  to  go  back,  and  they  said  that  it 
was  a  two  minutes'  walk,  so  we  kept 
on  alone  for  a  block  or  two,  enquiring 
by  signs  if  we  were  going  in  the  right 
direction;  the  streets  were  getting 
narrow  and  dirtier,  and  I  began  to  have 
misgivings,  when  we  met  a.  man  who 
looked  like  an  Englishman;  he  was  a 
native  who  spoke  a  little  English,  and 
the  first  question  he  asked  was:  "How 
did  you  ladies  come  to  be  alone  on  these 
streets?"  and  then  we  explained.  He 
said  that  he  would  take  us  to  the 
mosque,  but  that  no  power  could  get  us 
into  it  unless  our  guide  happened  to  be 
at  the  entrance.  We  wanted  to  go  on, 
so  he  reluctantly  took  us,  but  as  we 
were  so  sure  our  party  would  be  there, 
we  trudged  along  after  him  through  the 
dirty  narrow  streets— getting  worse  at 
every  turn— for  full  15  minutes,  then 
suddenly  came  to  the  gate  of  the 
mosque.  The  guard  stopped  us,  of 
course,  and  he  told  our  escort  that  there 
was  not  a  single  tourist  or  guide  inside. 
I  told  him  that  we  would  just  wait  there 
for  we  knew  that  they  would  come,  but 
our  escort  looked  horrified  and  exclaim- 
ed: "You  cannot,  you  cannot;  this  is 
not  T,nn<lon  or  Paris;  it  is  not  safe." 


Mosque   of  Omar  S7 

While  we  were  debating  what  to  do,  a 
crowd  began  to  gather  and  we  were 
getting  alarmed  when  our  young  man 
sent  a  boy  down  the  street  on  the  run  (I 
presume  to  hunt  our  guide  or  a  police- 
man, or  soldier  rather)  when  we  saw 
our  party  suddenly  turn  a  corner,  and 
we  were  safe.  It  was  careless  of  our 
guide  to  lose  us,  because  we  realiy  could 
not  help  the  delay,  ana  we  were  wait- 
ing for  him  when  we  started  to  make 
our  purchase;  he  passed  us  and  saw 
us,  and  I  had  already  warned  him  not 
to  walk  so  fast  on  Mrs.  Park's  account. 
That  afternoon  we  just  had  to  rest 
and  sleep,  and  then  the  next  morning 
we  started  for  our  donkey  ride;  it  was 
fine,  when  they  went  slowly,  but  when 
they  went  fast — well  I  just  yelled,  and 
my  little  donkey  boy  (about  12  year  a 
old)  would  look  up  at  me  with  a  wicked 
grin  and  say:  "Good!  Madam"  and  I 
would  answer  emphatically:  "No  good, 
very  bad"  for  I  had  one  camera  in  my 
lap,  another  in  my  bag  across  the  sad- 
dle, and  my  umbrella,  so  could  not  ho.d 
on  very  well.  The  first  place  we  stopped 
was  at  Gordon's  Calvary  (very  near  our 
hotel,  by  the  way) ;  it  really  seems  as  if 
it  must  be  the  right  one,  for  it  is  in  the 
side  of  the  hill  called  the  Skull,  but  of 
course  most  of  the  people  believe  that 
the  Church  of  the  Holy  Sepulcher  is 
over  the  tomb,  for  at  that  time  it  was 
outside  the  walls.  But  the  cemeteries 
are  a  sight;  they  cover  hillside  after 
hillside,  ages  old,  stones  all  broken  and 
all  over  the  ground,  and  not  a  tree  in 
sight.  At  our  second  stop  that  morning, 
the  Tombs  of  the  Kings,  Mrs.  Park 
begged  to  be  taken  back  to  the  hotel,  so 
she  paid  her  man  a  quarter  and  he  took 
her  back,  but  not  before  I  had  taken 
some  snap  shots  of  her.  One  woman  I 
saw  tonight  had  her  head  all  tied  up; 


88  Tombs  of  Kings 

her  donkey  had  fallen  with  her.  An- 
other lady  fell  off  twice  but  was  unhurt. 
Oh,  this  is  a  wild  life  we  are  leading. 
When  we  arrived  at  the  Tombs  of  the 
Kings,  I  first  ran  up  the  road  to  take  a 
picture  of  Borne  camels,  then  caught 
up  with  the  party  in  time  to  light  my 
candle  and  descend  into  the  tombs, 
(sort  of  catacombs).  I  left  them  in 
there  and  came  out,  took  a  snap  of  the 
entrance,  then  went  up  above  and  sat 
down;  soon  a  man  came  along  and  paid 
a  woman  to  grind  meal  so  that  he  could 
see  the  operation.  I  took  a  picture  of 
her  and  the  hand  mill,  and  a  little  later 
snapped  her  cooking  at  the  fire  out- 
side. If  they  see  you  taking  a  picture 
of  them  you  can't  get  away  without 
paying  "  Back-sheesh "  and  I  can  fool 
them  nearly  every  time,  for  I  cast  my 
eyes  high  or  to  one  side  till  they  think 
I  am  taking  it  over  their  heads  or  to 
one  side  of  them  and  they  never  know 
it.  When  one  gentleman  from  our  par- 
ty came  up  from  the  Tombs  he  said: 
"Why  you  didn't  see  the  tombs  did 
you?"  I  answered  that  I  did  and  he 
said:  "Why  the  last  I  saw  of  you,  you 
were  chasing  up  the  street  after  cain- 
ela;"  then  he  said:  "See  that  woman, 
she's  going  to  grind  that  wheat;  why 
don't  you  pay  her  and  get  her  pic- 
ture?" I  answered  that  I  already  had 
it  and  then  he  said:  "Well  you  get  more 
out  of  this  trip  than  anybody  I  know 
of."  It's  hard  work  though,  for  if  I 
want  to  get  any  pictures  at  all,  I  have 
to  keep  ahead  of  the  crowd  all  the  time, 
and  I  have  a  favorite  guide  who  lets 
me  do  it — an  old  man  named  Solomon; 
he  is  as  wise  as  his  namesake  too,  for 
when  he  sees  me  snap  right  and  left 
without  attracting  unnecessary  atten- 
tion, he  plods  along  as  if  nothing  had 
happened,  with  only  a  sly  wink  at  me. 


Holy    SepulcHer  69 

Another  guide  would  perhaps  tell  the 
person  in  Arabic  that  he  had  been  pho- 
tographed, or  turn  and  stop  or  attract 
attention  in  many  other  ways.  Joseph 
and  David  are  good  guides  too,  but  Solo- 
mon is  better  and  wiser  than  them  all; 
he  is  not  past  asking  favors  though — 
none  of  them  axe — and  the  other  day 
when  he  met  me  on  the  street  he  said 
that  he  thought  I  ought  to  give  him 
something,  so  I  said:  "All  right,  Solo- 
mon, I'll  give  you  something"  and  gave 
him  the  coveted  "Back-sheesh." 

The  afternoon  of  the  donkey  ride  I 
went  on  foot  with  the  party  to  the 
Church  of  the  Holy  Sepulcher  and  to 
the  Jews  wailing  place.  Friday  is  the 
special  day  for  the  latter  ceremony,  and 
the  narrow  street  wag  so  crowded  wieh 
tourists  that  I  hardly  tbink  I  have 
one  good  picture.  The  men  and  women 
both  go  there,  and  with  their  heads 
bent  against  the  wall,  read  from  the  Old 
Testament  of  the  former  glory  of  their 
nation  and  weep  and  wail  over  tln-ir 
present  condition. 

There  is  so  much  to  tell  about  the 
Mosque  of  Omar  that  you  will  have  to 
wait  for  it  till  we  get  home;  but  in  con- 
nection with  it  one  of  the  most  inter- 
esting things  to  me  is  the  Gate  Beauti- 
ful—the East  gate.  This  gate  is  in  the 
main  city  wall  and  opens  directly  into 
the  Temple  Area,  but  the  opening  is 
walled  up  with  stones  as  tight  as  the 
wall  itself;  this  was  done  by  the  Mos- 
lems, who  have  a  tradition  that  a  great 
king  is  coming  to  conquer  them,  and 
that  he  will  enter  in  through  that  gate, 
so  they  walled  it  up  to  make  it  all  the 
harder  for  him.  Directly  in  front  Ox 
this  gate,  east  of  it,  is  the  Mount  <>!' 
Olives.  Read  in  this  connection  Zacha- 
riah  14:  4,  5  and  Ezekiel  44:  1,  2,  and 
3,  also  the  6th,  7th,  and  8th  verses  of 


9O  BetHleHom 

the  same  chapter  which  I  believe  refer 
to  the  Moslems  who  now  hold  the  place, 
for  their  mosque  is  on  the  site  where  the 
temple  stood  centuries  ago. 

Monday  evening,  April  18th. — I  have 
been  four  days  trying  to  write  this  let- 
ter, and  I  must  finish  it  now  and  go 
right  to  bed,  for  we  will  be  called  at 
5:30  in  the  morning  as  Mrs.  Park  leaves 
for  Joppa  on  the  first  train.  I  do  not 
leave  till  Wednesday  morning,  then  I 
will  go,  also  on  the  first  train  and  have 
a  few  hours  in  Joppa.  Saturday  morn- 
ing we  went  shopping  but  did  not  buy 
much,  only  a  few  little  souvenirs.  I 
bought  $9  worth  of  films  for  papa's 
camera — could  not  get  one  to.  fit  mine, 
they  were  all  taken;  had  to  pay  90 
cents  each  for  all  I  bought,  they  sell 
regularly  at  $1  here.  In  the  afternoon 
we  went  to  Bethlehem  by  carriage— the 
first  disappointing  trip,  for  we  scarcely 
saw  anything  except  the  Church  of  the 
Nativity;  they  did  not  take  us  to  the 
Pools  of  Solomon  either,  which  should 
have  been  included  in  our  ticket.  The 
horses  had  been  there  twice  that  day, 
and  everything  is  just  crowded  out  at 
the  last.  It  was  a  beautiful  sight,  look- 
ing out  over  the  valley  from  the  edge  of 
the  little  town.  The  field  where  "the 
shepherds  watched  their  flocks"  was 
pointed  out,  also  the  field  of  Boaz,  and 
on  our  way  we  passed  the  Field  of 
blood,  or  Potter's  Field,  and  Bachel's 
Tomb.  Sunday  morning  we  attended 
the  opening  session  of  the  convention 
and  heard  the  Bishop  of  London  preach, 
then  at  4  o'clock  in  the  afternoon  a 
special  communion  service  was  held;  it 
was  conducted  by  Dr.  Potts,  and  Dr. 
Monroe  Gibson  of  London  preached.  It 
was  a  beautiful  service  throughout  and 
blessed  to  all.  We  were  so  tired  that 
we  could  not  attend  the  evening  session, 


Olivet 9} 

BO  I  wrote  the  greater  part  of  this  let- 
ter and  Mrs.  Park  spent  the  time  writ- 
ing, too. 

Tuesday  afternoon. — And  still  this 
letter  is  unfinished.  Mrs.  Park  rose 
early  this  morning  but  did  not  get  off 
on  account  of  not  being  able  to  get  a 
carriage  in  the  rush  of  the  "side  trip" 
people.  She  went,  however,  at  noon.  I 
attended  the  convention  this  morning 
and  took  some  pictures.  The  best  ses- 
sion yet,  of  the  convention,  was  yester- 
day morning.  We  learned  so  much 
about  Jerusalem  from  native  pastors 
and  missionaries;  they  are  doing  such  a 
wonderful  work;  it  was  very  interest- 
ing this  morning,  too,  concerning  the 
Jews.  I  believe  great  good  will  result 
from  this  convention  both  in  America 
and  England.  The  tent  is  about  a  mile 
or  more  from  here,  (the  hotel),  and  it  is 
a  hot  dusty  walk.  I  shall  not  attend 
tonight  as  I  must  rest  for  the  trip  to- 
morrow. As  I  came  from  the  conven- 
tion at  noon  today  I  bought  a  dagger 
and  sheath,  mounted  in  brass,  that  had 
seen  much  usage.  Things  are  selling 
cheaper  now  as  this  is  the  last  day,  but 
the  stores  are  almost  cleaned  out  as  it 
is.  We  had  a  nice  meeting  on  the  top 
of  the  Mount  of  Olives  yesterday  after- 
noon. The  drive  is  a  beautiful  one.  We 
saw  the  site  of  Mizpali  and  Jericho,  also 
had  a  fine  view  of  the  Dead  Sea. 


EGYPT 


LETTER  NO.  12. 

CAIRO,   EGYPT,  SATURDAY,  APRIL  23,  1904. 


E  ARE  IN  EGYPT,  in  old  Cairo, 
the  twin  sister  of  gay  Paris.  If  I  had 
been  transported  here,  blindfolded,  I 
should  have  said  that  I  was  in  Paris; 
it  sounds  like  it,  but  to  the  eyes,  the 
red  fezes,  turbaned  heads,  and  long 
robes  of  the  men,  and  the  veiled  women 
tell  a  different  story.  We  reached  Al- 
exandria about  10  a.  m.  Thursday,  and 
for  some  reason,  perhaps  on  account  of 
the  plague,  we  did  not  have  our  drive 
there,  but  immediately  boarded  a  train 
standing  at  the  dock  where  we  sat  in 
the  heat,  from  1  till  3:15  before  start- 
ing, then  followed  a  very  long  hot  dus- 
ty ride,  lasting  until  7  o  'clock,  when  we 
reached  Cairo.  But  it  was  an  interest- 
ing journey  nevertheless,  and  as  we 
sped  along  in  the  really  handsome  cars, 
appropriately  upholstered  in  leather  and 
divided  off  into  compartments,  I  took 
note  of  the  following:  In  contrast  to 
the  Holy  Land,  Egypt  is  flat,  with 
broad  green  fields  of  rice,  lentils,  and 
alfalfa.  There  are  numerous  locust  and 
other  fine-foliaged  trees,  but  of  course 
it  is  the  palm  trees  that  interest  we 
Americans.  These  are  seen  everywhere, 
in  groups  of  a  dozen  or  more,  very  tall, 
with  leaves  only  at  the  top;  they  are 


94- 


the  date  palm.  The  cattle—  and  there 
are  many  of  them  —  are  the  Buffalo  cat- 
tle, such  as  they  have  in  the  Philip- 
pines; they  are  grey  in  color  (just  ex- 
actly like  a  grey-hound)  and  they  have 
such  long  necks  and  pointed  heads,  with 
drooping  horns  and  ears  set  low  on  the 
head;  they  are  used  for  plowing  and  to 
turn  the  numerous  water  wheels  all 
through  the  country.  We  passed  thou- 
sands of  these  wheels;  they  are  set  over 
a  kind  of  well  I  think.  The  ox  is  usual- 
ly blindfolded  and  goes  in  a  circle 
around  this  wheel.  The  water  pours  out 
of  the  top  of  the  wheel  as  it  turns 
around  and  is  carried  all  over  the 
fields,  the  water  usually  standing  in  the 
little  ditches  or  furrows  about  two 
feet  apart,  but  in  many  cases  it  covers 
the  entire  field. 

After  plowing  a  field  with  the  same 
rude  plows  used  in  Palestine,  a  man 
goes  over  the  entire  plowed  part  and 
pounds  up  the  large  clods  with  a  kind 
of  an  iron  hammer;  but  labor  is  cheap 
and  plows  are  high.  All  of  the  land  is 
under  cultivation  and  the  crops  are  all 
gathered  by  hand  —  cut  with  a  sickle. 
There  are  a  few  automobiles  in  town 
(and  their  "chu  chu"  makes  me  so 
homesick)  but  "nary"  a  plow. 

Among  the  first  things  my  eyes  lit 
upon  after  leaving  Alexandria,  were 
boats  apparently  sailing  over  the  land, 
and  immediately  in  thought  I  was 
transported  to  dear  old  Holland.  Canals 
have  a  fascination  for  me,  just  like  old 
jugs.  We  crossed  the  Nile  several 
times  on  well-built  stone  bridges.  We 
soon  began  to  pass  the  little  towns,  and 
what  do  you  suppose  they  were  built 
off  Mud,  entirely  of  mud,  with  scarce- 
ly any  windows  and  no  chimneys;  in 
shape,  square,  like  the  houses  of  Pales- 
tine, but  right  on  the  top  was  a  funny 


Cairo 9.5 

little  ball  of  mud;  there  is  usually  one 
white  building  of  mud  in  each  village 
and  I  think  it  is  the  mosque.  There  is 
also  a  cemetery  at  the  side  of  each 
little  village,  and  the  graves  are  all 
built  up  from  the  ground,  also  of  mud. 
Now  and  then  we  passed  a  large  city 
looking  just  like  any  other  city  except 
for  the  natives  in  their  picturesque  cos- 
tumes and  the  numerous  camels  and 
donkeys  seen  everywhere,  (and  to  think 
that  when  I  left  home  I  was  worrying 
for  fear  these  animals,  especially  the 
former,  would  become  extinct  before  I 
reached  their  native  heath) !  Brick 
making  seems  to  be  one  of  the  chief  in- 
dustries of  the  country.  We  passed  a 
number  of  places  where  they  were 
burning  them. 

It  grew  dark  before  we  had  finished 
our  long  ride  of  133  miles,  but  it  was 
cooler  in  the  twilight,  and  the  green 
country  looked  so  beautiful.  Arriving  at 
Cairo,  all  was  excitement,  for  the  hun- 
dreds of  pieces  of  baggage  had  to  be 
claimed,  and  I  stood  on  top  of  two  suit- 
cases beside  the  freight  car  door,  and 
watched  them  throw  every  piece  out — 
mine  was  almost  the  very  last— suit 
cases  and  bags  in  all  stages  of  dissolu- 
tion, for  you  can  imagine  such  a  num- 
ber could  not  be  handled  carefully.  At 
Jerusalem  two  foolish  persons  had 
strapped  their  umbrellas  to  their  suit 
cases.  I  wish  you  could  have  seen  the 
result.  Truly  the  last  stage  of  those 
umbrellas  was  worse  than  the  first  and 
the  poor  gnarled,  twisted  things  appeal- 
ed to  me— for  it  wasn't  their  fault  and 
they  did  their  best  to  stick  on. 

Sunday  evening,  April  25.— This 
morning  Mrs.  Park  and  I  went  to  the 
service  of  Arabic  at  the  American  Mis- 
sion; following  this  was  a  regular  church 


96 Cairo 

service.  Mrs.  Park  stayed  and  I  came 
home  to  the  hotel  to  rest  and  to  write 
this  letter.  It  has  been  hotter  here  than 
anv  weather  I  ever  experienced,  except 
in  Kansas,  and  I  have  had  to  keep  pret- 
ty quiet,  going  sight  seeing  only  in  the 
morning. 

When  we  arrived  in  Carlo  Thursday 
evening,  we  were  driven  to  the  Grand 
Continental  hotel,  where  all  the  dele- 
gates were  told  to  go  who  had  not  been 
given  rooms,  and  as  we  oooked  so  late 
our  names  as  usual  were  on  that  list. 
So  we  landed  here  with  our  baggage, 
sized  up  the  place  as  being  fit  for  roy- 
alty itself,  pressed  to  the  front  (requir- 
ing some  "cheek")  and  were  among 
the  first  to  inquire  for  rooms.  We  were 
none  too  soon,  as  most  of  the  others, 
tired  as  they  were,  had  to  go  elsewhere, 
and  worse  yet  some  had  not  claimed 
their  baggage.  There  are  some  disad- 
vantages in  traveling  with  such  a  large 
crowd;  it  is  like  moving  a  whole  town 
to  go  from  one  place  to  another.  Mrs. 
Park  and  I  have  single  rooms  adjoin- 
ing, and  I  am  now  sitting  out  on  the 
little  balcony  onto  which  our  rooms 
open;  the  porch  or  balcony  is  furnished 
with  rugs,  table  and  easy  chairs,  and 
looks  out  on  the  main  street,  which  sep- 
arates the  park  from  the  hotel.  Perfect 
streams  of  carriages  and  a  few  autos 
pass  from  early  morning  until  2  or  3 
o'clock  at  night.  I  saw  two  funeral 
processions  and  one  wedding  procession 
pass  today.  It  seems  gayer  than  ever 
today,  because  the  Sabbath  is  used  as  a 
holiday  by  so  many  and  the  left  open- 
air  balcony  of  this  hotel,  on  the  ground 
floor,  is  today  transformed  into  a  fairy- 
land, by  palms,  draperies,  flowers,  rugs, 
and  hundreds  of  lanters  and  mirrors,  all 
ready  for  the  feast  or  banquet  to  be 


Pyramids  97 

given  tonight  by  the  French  to  the 
Italians,  I  believe,  in  honor  ot  the 
French  President's  visit  to  Borne,  they 
say.  They  wear  their  "glad  clothes" 
here  to  dinner.  I  brought  mine  along 
but  they  were  too  warm,  so  I  bought  a 
thin  waist  with  a  silk  net  yoke  and 
you  can  imagine  how  warm  it  is  when 
I  tell  you  that  I  sat  out  of  doors  all 
evening  with  only  that  thin  net  over 
my  neck  and  shoulders.  Friday  morn- 
ing, with  many  misgivings  on  account 
of  the  heat,  we  took  a  carriage  for  the 
Sphinx  and  Pyramids.  What  was  our 
surprise  to  find  that  the  entire  drive 
was  over  a  boulevard,  thickly  lined  on 
both  sides  by  large  locust  trees,  mak- 
ing the  road  shady  al!  the  way,  and  so 
pleasant.  We  soon  caught  sight  of  the 
pyramids  in  the  distance  and  it  seemed 
perfectly  natural  that  they  should  be 
there — three  of  them.  When  we  reneh- 
pd  HIP  bnso  of  the  largest,  che,»ps,  about 
10:30,  the  sun  was  beating  down  on  the 
hot  sands  so  fiercely  that  I  could  not 
even  walk  over  the  hill  to  see  the 
sphinx,  on.lv  a  short  distance.  There 
were  plenty  of  donkeys  and  camels  on 
hand,  but  the  price  had  advanced  to  50 
cents,  to  the  sphinx  and  return;  how- 
ever I  soon  bargained  with  a  donkey 
boy  to  take  me  there  and  back  for  25 
cents,  (the  camel  drivers  wouldn't  come 
down)  so  I  put  up  my  umbrella  and 
took  my  snap-shots  from  the  donkey's 
back,  (the  boy  held  his  lordship 's  ears 
down  so  they  wouldn't  be  in  my  pic- 
tures) then  returned  to  the  pyramid 
without  getting  off  the  donkey.  I  was 
afraid,  too,  that  if  I  dismounted  I 
would  have  to  pay  to  get  on  again.  Mrs. 
Park  said  she  would  not  go  to  see  the 
sphinx  but  afterwards  changed  her 
mind  and  walked,  hiring  a  guide  to 


9ft  Pyramids 

take  her.  There  were  only  a  few  who 
climbed  to  the  top  of  the  pyramids; 
some  of  them  said  that  it  was  terrible, 
while  others  told  another  story.  Each 
person  has  to  have  two  men  to  pull 
him  up  and  each  step  is  so  very  high 
that  it  becomes  a  great  strain.  The 
pyramid  looks  about  as  I  thought  it 
would,  but  the  sphinx  is  much  smaller 
than  I  imagined  it.  There  is  an  en- 
trance to  the  tomb  in  the  center  of  the 
pyramid  near  the  ground;  very  few  at- 
tempted that  I  believe.  They  said  that 
it  was  just  as  hard  to  go  down  tne 
slippery  dark  way  as  it  was  to  climb 
the  outside,  then  there  was  nothing  to 
see  when  one  reached  it.  After  a  little, 
when  the  prices  of  camel  rides  had 
dropped,  I  bargained  with  a  man  to 
ride  a  few  steps  on  his  camel  and  to 
have  somebody  take  my  picture,  all  for 
5  cents.  The  first  man  I  called  to  take 
my  picture,  (with  my  camera)  aimed  it 
at  all  points  of  the  compass,  and  had  me 
wildly  waving  mv  arms  for  10  minutes, 
while  the  camel  driver  was  calling  for 
double  pay  for  taking  his  time,  when 
the  would-be  camera  man  announced 
that  he  "couldn't  see  a  thing"  and 
handed  it  over  to  his  companion.  No. 
2  had  never  taken  any  pictures  but  No. 
1  had;  however,  I  begged  No.  2,  from 
rrrr  height  in  the  broiling  sun,  to  please 
aim  it  at  me  and  snap  it.  He  finally 
did,  then  brought  it  to  me  to  turn  up 
another  film  but  I  couldn't  do  it,  for 
No.  1  in  his  desperation  had  clinched  it 
so  tight  that  it  would  not  work.  Well. 
I  fixed  it  with  my  hat  pin,  then  utterly 
ignoring  No.  1  and  No.  2  I  called  to  a 
man  who  was  passing  with  a  large  cam- 
era and  tripod.  Well,  he  capped  the 
climax,  for,  although  I  showed  him 
where  to  press  the  button,  he  backed  off 


Baznars  99 

with  the  lens  pointed  directl"  up  to  the 
sky  and  tried  to  find  me  in  the  round 
lens  of  the  finder,  and  I  could  not  get 
him  to  turn  it  over,  so  I  begged  him— 
on  my  knees  almost — to  please  bring  me 
the  camera,  but  even  when  he  had 
turned  it  right  side  up,  he  "couldn't 
see  a  thing, "  so  I  told  him  to  simly  aim 
it  and  snap  it,  and  he  did;  but  it  was 
almost  the  end  of  me,  I  was  worn  out. 

Monday  evening,  April  26th. — I  am 
anxious  to  finish  up  Cairo  so  will  at- 
tempt it  now  as  I  have  a  few  minutes 
before  I  dress  for  dinner  which  is  at 
the  fashionable  hour  of  8  o'clock.  Sat- 
urday morning,  right  after  breakfast, 
two  young  lady  missionaries  here,  or 
rather  one  missionary  and  one  teacher, 
lovely  girls  and  sisters,  friends  of  Mrs. 
Park,  took  us  in  a  carriage  to  the 
bazaars.  It  was  an  interesting  morn- 
ing and  we  all  bought  a  few  things, 
and  then  we  went  home  to  dinner 
with  them.  They  are  living  with  Dr. 
and  Mrs.  Watson,  the  missionaries.  We 
had  a  very  nice  dinner,  and  then  we 
were  all  invited  to  take  a  nap,  which  for 
three-fourths  of  an  hour  we  endeavored 
to  do,  but  we  had  brought  home  some 
boarders  with  us  (very  small  animals, 
not  unknown  in  our  country)  and  we 
were  busy  entertaining  them.  At  the 
close  of  the  nap  time  the  dinner  bell 
rang  again  and  we  ate  delicious  ginger 
bread,  ,tea,  and  bread  and  butter.  Then 
we  took  some  pictures  on  the  balcony, 
and  when  it  grew  a  little  cooler  took  a 
carriage  ride  to  get  cooled  off.  Every- 
body was  out  in  carrages;  a  great  num- 
ber of  them  sitting  in  their  carriages 
along  the  banks  of  the  Nile  and  not 
driving.  In  contrast  to  Paris,  two  horses 
are  nearly  always  driven,  and  they  are 
good  horses,  too;  the  carriages  also  are 


1OO  Museum 

handsomer.  I  have  told  you  how  we 
spent  Sunday,  and  the  mission  work 
here  I  will  have  to  tell  you  about  when 
I  get  home,  or  rather  Mrs.  Park  will,  for 
she  went  house-to-house  visiting  this 
morning  with  one  of  t|ie  missionaries.  I 
visited  the  museum  this  morning;  just 
happened  to  get  with  a  pleasant 
party.  Dr.  Murch  (Mrs.  Parks' 
friend)  of  Luxor,  Egypt,  was  their 
guide  and  as  we  had  none,  our  party 
went  along.  He  took  us  only  to  the 
most  interesting  things,  and  here  in  the 
land  of  mummies  you  can  imagine  how 
interesting  they  were.  We  saw  Barneses 
IT.,  his  father,  and  the  Pharaoh  whose 
army  was  drowned  in  the  Dead  Sea.  The 
latter  was  still  enwrapped. 

After  luncheon,  two  gentlemen,  a 
guide  and  myself,  went  to  the  citadel, 
where  a  fine  view  of  the  city  was  ob- 
tained. We  also  visited  near  there  an 
old  mosque  over  500  years  old.  We 
then  drove  through  a  very  old  cemetery 
to  a  mosque  in  the  middle  of  it,  and  as 
we  were  returning,  met  a  funeral  pro- 
cession with  the  hired  mourners  at  the 
head  of  the  procession  crying  and  at 
th3  same  time  grinning  at  us;  but  the 
grief  of  those  following  the  bier  was 
sincere  and  they  cried  very  loudly. 

I  have  just  returned  to  my  room  from 
dinner  and  am  too  happy  for  words  for 
Mr.  Wiggins  of  Texas  brought  me  your 
letter.  T  had  given  ut>  hor»e,  for  I  was 
at  the  office  this  morning.  We  will 
leave  here  tomorrow  right  after  lunch- 
eon, for  Alexandria,  but  as  the  plague  is 
there  we  will  not  get  to  see  the  city  at 
all.  Any  one  of  our  party  who  happens 
to  be  at  all  sick  will  be  left  behind,  (a 
man  and  his  wife  are  to  be  left  here) 
so  Mrs.  Park  and  I  are  fearful  lest  we 
will  be  taken  suddenly  ill  and  be  left. 


Museum  1O1 

The  young  man  who  had  appendicitis 
will  join  us  at  Naples.  We  left  one 
sick  person  at  Jerusalem  and  one  at 
Joppa.  You  see  with  this  big  crowd  it 
would  not  do  to  run  the  risk  of  quar- 
antine. 


BAY  OF  NAPLES 

LETTEE  NO.   12. 

BAY  OF  NAPLES,  FRIDAY,  APRIL  29,  1904. 


E  HAVE  BEEN  anchored  in  the  beau- 
tiful Bay  of  Naples  since  about  11 
o'clock  this  morning.  All  the  battle- 
ships in  the  bay,  of  which  there  are  32, 
(among  them  our  "Kentucky"),  were 
firing  salutes  as  we  entered.  Of  course, 
we  Americans  took  this  honor  unto  our- 
selves, but  I  noticed  that  every  vessel 
was  decorated  with  flags  and  streamers 
and  looking  up  saw  our  own  "jKur- 
furst"  gay  with  colors,  so  upon  inquiry 
I  found  that  the  display  was  in  honor 
of  the  French  President  who  arrived  at 
Naples  this  morning,  also  in  honor  of 
the  visit  of  the  King  and  Queen  of 
Italy.  I  was  on  the  upper  deck,  so  in- 
terested in  the  smoking  Vesuvius  that  I 
did  not  notice  the  bugle  call  for  lunch- 
eon, and  went  down  to  the  dining  room 
just  as  'they  were  serving  the  last 
course.  I  suppose  I  looked  very  hungry, 
for  Fred,  our  good  table  steward,  let 
me  sit  down  and  served  me  separately, 
for  which  I  was  very  thankful,  for  at 
the  close  of  the  first  sitting  all  the 
stewards  and  stewardesses  were  called 
up  on  deck  and  examined  by  health  of- 
csrs  who  came  aboard  here;  then  di- 
rectly afterwards  everybody  on  the 


1O4- Bay  of  Naples 

ship  had  to  pass  single  file  over  the 
bridge  (which  connects  the  front  part 
of  the  ship  with  the  back  part)  for  in- 
spection, so  the  second  sitting  did  not 
have  luncheon  till  nearly  3  o'clock.  We 
were  told  yesterday  that  all  soiled  linen 
must  be  put  into  our  pillow  slips  and 
taken  ashore  to  be  fumigated,  so  you 
can  imagine  that  yesterday  was  a 
great  wash-day  aboard  ship;  stockings, 
especially,  could  be  seen  hanging  all 
over  the  ship  and  handkerchiefs  could 
be  counted  by  the  dozen.  Many  things 
went  overboard  and  trunks  were  locked 
ana  sent  down  into  the  hold,  marked 
"To  be  stored  in  New  York."  Yes,  it 
was  a  great  house-cleaning  day  for  the 
"Kurfurst"  and  the  halls  smell  so  of 
carbolic  acid  this  morning  that  every- 
body is  on  deck.  It  seems  so  strange 
to  have  a  little  spare  time;  it  is  the 
first  time  since  the  week  we  left  New 
York  that  I  have  seen  so  many  sitting 
out  on  deck — we  simply  have  not  had 
time.  The  sea  was  quite  rough  yester- 
day and  a  great  many  people  were  sick, 
including  myself;  however  I  did  not 
miss  or  lose  a  meal.  Two  months  is  a 
long  time  to  live  on  one  ship  ,and  it 
seems  almost  like  home  to  return  to  it 
after  being  away  sight-seeing.  We  are 
always  welcomed  with  smiles  by  the 
crew,  and  the  ship  is  cleaned  from  top 
to  bottom  and  sometimes  painted  in 
places. 

Friday  evening.— Well,  the  day  is 
ending  in  great  excitement,  for  the  cap- 
tain's dinner  is  being  given  tonight. 
The  first  sitting  has  just  finished  and 
the  second  ia  now  beginning.  I  am 
Hitting  in  the  midst  of  the  orchestra  at 
a  writing  desk,  for  I  don't  want  to 
write  in  my  room  for  fear  I  will  miss 
something.  Everv  course  at  dinner  was 


Captatn's   Dinner  1O.5 

decorated  with  some  color.     Some  with 
colored  masts  and  Hags,  others  with  lit- 
tle white  boats,  another  with  the  Ameri- 
can eagle  standing  among  green  leavej, 
and  last  of  all  came  the  ice  cream  in  the 
form  of  a  square,  and  sitting  on  top  of 
it  all,  in  the  cream,  was  a  little  Chinese 
lady  with  a     colored  parasol  over     her. 
When  we  had  reached  the  third  course, 
the  boats  in  the  harbor  fired  the  sunset 
guns.     The  windows  were  open    (I  sit 
next  to  one)  and  we  all  looked  out  at 
the  grand  sight;  the  noise  was  deafen- 
ing, and  simulteneously  with  the  firing, 
all  the  streamers  and  flags  were     low- 
ered.    Sir  Thomas  Lipton's  yacht     was 
the  nearest  boat  to  us — only  a  few  rods 
away.     I  tell  you  it  was  exciting.    Be- 
fore  the   dinner   closed   we   all   partook 
of  the  centerpiece  on  the  table,  of  which 
there  was  one  on  each  table;  it  consist- 
ed of  a  tall  open-work  pyramid  of  cake, 
decorated   with    tiny   flags   of   different 
nations,  and  bonbons,     and  on     the  top 
a  little  statue  of  some  kind.  We  popped 
the  bonbons  and  wore  the  caps     which 
they  contained,  with   one  of  the     flags 
stuck  through  them.   Of   course,  we  all 
wore  our  very  "gladdest  clothes"  and 
the  dining  room  was  brilliant  with  col- 
or.   The  music  too  was  the  very  best.    I 
just  told  the     boy     playing  the     "big 
bass"  at     my  elbow     that  my  brother 
played  the  same  instrument.    I  used  my 
best  German   and   he  understood.  I   of- 
ten think  how  George  would  enjoy     a 
trip  like  this  with  the  Germans.  During 
the  dinner  Mr.  Hartshorn  presented  the 
resolution,   that,    inasmuch      as     Monte 
Carlo  was  known  throughout  the  world 
as  the  worst  kind  of  a  gambling  place, 
that  it  was  re-solved  to  change  the  pro- 
gram; they  took  a  vote  which  was     al- 
most unanimous  for  the  change,  so  thai 


lOfe Mail 

nearly  all  the  party  will  take  the  beau- 
tiful drive,  with  dinner  at  Nice,  instead 
of  at  Monte  Carlo. 

Tonight  at  9  o'clock  in  this  room 
the  captain,  and  1  think  Mr.  Clark  alsc 
will  each  be  presented  with  a  gold 
watch  toward  which  we  all  contributed. 

Late  Wednesday  night,  Fred,  our 
steward,  brought  me  a  letter  from  you 
addressed  to  Alexandria.  I  wish  you 
could  have  seen  it.  1  am  going  to  keep 
the  envelope  for  a  curiosity.  The  au- 
thorities had  evidently  suspicioneu  it, 
and  so  opened  it,  and  all  on  account  of 
Mildred's  innocent  little  drawing  in- 
side. The  opened  end  of  the  envelope 
had  been  pasted  together  again  with  four 
strips  of  paper  tape,  there  was  Arabic 
and  another  language  on  the  back  and 
on  the  front,  the  address  had  been 
crossed  out  and  sent  to  Cairo,  and  at 
the  top  it  was  sent  in  the  care  of  an 
American  line  of  steamers,  and  my  room 
number  was  on  twice.  If  you  have  ad- 
dressed another  one  there,  am  airaid  I 
will  never  get  it.  I  told  Mrs.  Park  that 
your  letters  always  came  in  on  the 
' '  home  stretch, ' '  but  1  always  had  to 
have  a  certain  amount  of  anxiety  over 
them  before  they  reached  me.  The  be- 
lated letter  to  Athens  /arrived  Wednes- 
day morning  and  it  is  also  a,  curiosity 
with  four  colors  of  ink  and  pencil  on 
the  envelope.  It  is  no  sign  of  careless- 
ness to  lose  things  in  this  trip.  I  was 
talking  to  Mrs.  McCrellis  this  morning, 
and  she  told  me  that  Mr.  McCrellis  (a 
member  of  the  Central  Committee)  had 
lost  two  steamer  rugs,  two  umbrellas, 
an  overcoat,  and  about  six  or  seven  oth- 
er articles  which  I  have  forgotten.  Ev- 
ery morning  there  is  put  on  display 
about  100  lost  articles;  besides  these,  in 
the  hold,  where  the  trunks  are  stored, 


_   Lost  Articles  1O7 

there  was  on  display  this  morning  the 
following  lost  articles,  which  I  noted 
down:  A  laundry  bag,  pair  shoes,  sev- 
eral nair  stockings,  a  new  black  dress 
suit  vest,  hot  water  bottle,  garters,  doi- 
ley,  belts,  collars,  mittens,  ribbons^ 
feather  ponpon,  slippers,  new  woolen 
goods,  cord  and  tassel,  photos,  a  bottle 
of  something,  handkerchiefs,  shoe 
strings,  silver  spoon,  clothes  hook, 
books,  saucer,  sword,  basket  of  cotton 
chickens,  and  while  I  sat  there  a  doll's 
shoe  was  added  to  the  collection. 

Sunday  afternoon,  May  1st,  at  Borne. 
— We  are  now  in  this  wonderful  old  city, 
having  arrived  at  midnight  last  night. 
We  attended  church  services  at  the 
Scottish  Presbyterian  church  this  morn- 
ing, went  alone,  and  were  misdirected 
so  had  a  long  walk  of  it.  The  service 
was  very  good  and  the  church  was  more 
than  filled  with  our  people.  We  also 
stayed  to  the  communion  service  at  its 
close.  Mr.  Wiggins,  of  Texas,  sat  with 
me,  so  of  course  I  felt  quite  at  home.  I 
think  that  he  must  be  some  relation  for 
I  feel  as  if  I  had  always  known  him.  I 
reached  our  hotel  just  in  time  for  lunch- 
eon and  have  been  lying  down  taking  a 
good  rest  since. 

As  I  was  writing  the  other  evening,  I 
glanced  out  of  the  window  and  the  bay 
and  city  of  Naples  was  aglow  with 
lights.  I  ran  for  my  camera  and  has- 
tened out  on  deck  and  it  was  one  of 
the  most  beautiful  sights  that  I  ever 
witnessed.  Six  battleships  were  wholly 
outlined  in  electric  lights,  the  whole 
front  of  a  large  building  was  the  Ital- 
ian flag  in  colored  lights,  all  the  vessels 
were  lighted  and  the  city  itself  was 
ablaze  with  colored  lights,  and  almost 
in  full  view  from  our  ship  the  fire- 
works were  displayed;  these  consisted 


1O8  Farw-wells  

•  JJ 

principally  of  large  set  pieces,  and  they 

were  beautiful.  It  was  a  glorious  moon- 
light night,  too— a  sight  never  to  be 
forgotten.  When  the  evening's  exer- 
cises began  I  came  inside  again,  and  the 
service  was  a  fitting  close  to  our  grand 
tour.  The  speeches  were  all  good;  one 
was  given  by  Mr.  Johnson.  A  watch 
was  presented  to  the  captain  and  to 
Mr.  Clark,  and  albums  made  in  Jerusa- 
lem, of  olive  wood,  and  containing  the 
autograph  of  every  member  of  the 
cruise,  were  presented  to  Mr.  Warren, 
Mr.  Hartshorn,  and  Mr.  MeCrellis. 
Their  speeches  of  thanks  were  all 
heartfelt,  and  when  Mr.  Hartshorn  was 
speaking,  the  tears  were  flowing  down 
more  than  one  cheek  for  he  spoke  so 
tenderly  of  his  invalid  wife  and  said 
that  if  we  saw  the  sunlight  in  his  face, 
(which  Mr.  Johnson  had  mentioned  in 
his  presentation  speech)  that  it  was 
because  of  the  little  wife  in  yonder 
room,  she  who  was  deprived  of  many 
things  because  of  God's  great  love — 
and  we  can  readily  see  it,  for  they  have 
both  been  a  benediction  to  every  mem- 
ber of  the  cruise,  brought  about 
through  suffering.  I  was  told  that  Mrs. 
Hartshorn  has  been  an  invalid  for  six- 
teen years.  The  next  day  we  all  separ- 
ated, some  of  us  never  to  meet  again 
on  earth. 

Another  good  man  who  deserves  the 
hearty  thanks  of  every  member  of  the 
cruise,  is  Mr.  W.  J.  Semelroth,  editor 
of  the  World  Evangel  and  secretary  of 
the  convention  committee,  for  in  the 
face  of  the  greatest  difficulties  he  en- 
couraged the  undertaking  in  every  issue 
of  his  paper.  On  board  he  has  been  a 
martyr  to  the  cause  of  the  "kodakers," 
having  personal  charge  of  Eastman's 
goods,  and  through  some  mistake  he 


Naples 1O9 

was  not  supplied  with  the  quantity  of 
films  which  he  ordered.  So  you  can 
imagine  that  his  task  has  been  any- 
thing but  an  easy  one. 

Yesterday  morning  we  had  a  three 
hours  drive  in  Naples,  visited  the  great 
cathedral,  then  the  museum,  where  the 
interest  to  me  all  centered  around  Pom- 
peii, for  we  saw  there  almost  every- 
thing belonging  to  a  house,  from  a  bed 
and  walls,  to  a  flat-iron,  and  also  a  cork 
plan  of  the  city  as  far  as  excavations 
show  it.  It  was  so  full  of  interest,  and 
will  be  such  a  help  when  we  visit  Pom- 
peii itself.  We  also  visited  the  cele- 
brated aquarium  of  Naples,  so  fascinat- 
ing, all  except  the  long  fish  that  looked 
like  snakes.  We  all  went  back  to  the 
boat  for  luncheon  after  which  we  pack- 
ed for  Eome  and  left  for  the  train  about 
3  o  'clock.  Some  of  our  party  went  to 
Pompeii  yesterday;  they  will  visit 
Rome  after  we  leave  and  then  proceed 
across  the  continent.  We  packed  our 
trunks  to  be  sent  back  on  the  "Kur- 
furst"  and  stored  in  New  York;  need- 
less to  say  mine  was  full  of  jugs.  1 
bought  a  good  stout  basket  valise, 
leather  bound,  at  Cairo,  to  take  across 
the  continent  with  me.  We  are  afraid 
to  inquire  when  we  leave  Eome  but 
think  it  will  be  Wednesday.  The  pro- 
gram for  the  next  two  days  is  very 
full,  with  nothing  said  about  Wednes- 
day. 

I  forgot  to  tell  you  about  our  ticket. 
We  bought  it  of  Cook  &  Son  at  Cairo 
from  Nice  to  London;  Nice,  Genoa,  Flor- 
ence, Milan,  Lucerne,  Cologne,  Amster- 
dam, The  Hague,  Paris,  London,  with 
fifteen  nights  at  the  hotels  and  fifteen 
days  of  meal  tickets;  if  we  run  out  of 
the  latter  we  can  renew  at  any  point. 


ROME 


LETTER  NO.  13. 


ON  TRAIN  FROM  ROME  TO  NAPLES,  WEDNESDAY. 
MAY  4,  1904. 


E  AREi  leaving  Rome,  the  city  built 
on  seven  hills,  and  never  in  my  life  have 
I  so  regretted  leaving  a  place.  Only 
three  days  in  Rome!  I  know  you  will 
gasp  at  the  thought,  but  it  could  not  be 
helped.  Perhaps  if  it  were  to  do  over 
again  we  would  have  left  the  party  at 
Rome;  however,  we  have  seen  so  much 
that  we  are  fairly  satiated  with  sight- 
seeing. Monday  and  Tuesday  we  were 
with  our  guides  all  day,  not  even  tak- 
ing time  to  go  to  our  rooms  at  noon  the 
first  day,  and  the  next  day  we  only  had 
about  15  minutes'  rest  after  luncheon. 
Monday  was  at  Clark's  expense,  Tues- 
day our  own.  The  Hotel  Minerva  was 
just  on  the  border  of  a  part  of  the  his- 
torical section,  and  in  plain  view  from 
our  window  was  the  Pantheon,  just  a 
block  away.  (Here  they  would  say  one 
minute;  they  do  not  measure  distances 
by  blocks  or  miles,  but  minutes).  We 
drove  first  to  the  Pincian  Gardens.  This 
is  a  beautiful  park,  the  road  winding 
gradually  up  a  hill,  from  the  top  of 
which  the  finest  view  of  Rome  is  ob- 
tained. The  Seven  Hills  were  pointed 


112  Solpt  Peter's 

out  to  us,  also  other  objects  of  interest, 
but  of  course  St.  Peter's  with  its  great 
dome  loomed  up  above  everything.  We 
then  drove  to  the  Vatican,  where  the 
Pope's  residence  was  pointed  out  to  ITS, 
and  then  we  visited  there  the  Sistine 
Chapel,  the  Museum  of  Sculpture,  and 
room  after  room  containing  fine  old 
paintings,  one  of  which  was  Eaphael's 
"Transfiguration."  But  the  Sistine 
Chapel  was  the  greatest  attraction  to 
me;  it  contains  Michael  Angelo's 
"Last  Judgment"— the  whole  of  the 
end  wall,  and  his  wonderful  ceiling. 
There  are  mural  decorations  by  other 
artists  on  the  side  walls  but  while  the 
guide  was  explaining  them  I  turned 
again  to  the  former  ,and  all  too  soon  he 
called  us  away.  The  library  was  not 
open  while  we  were  in  Bome.  I  was  so 
sorry  for  I  did  want  to  see  it. 

Directly  after  luncheon  we  drove 
back  to  the  same  place  to  visit  St.  Pe- 
ter's church.  The  outer  side  did  not 
impress  me  as  it  should  have,  perhaps, 
but  the  inside  is  beautiful  almost  be- 
yond description.  These  great  cathe- 
drals somehow  strike  one  as  being  so 
cold,  in  more  than  one  sense,  but  St. 
Peter's  less  so  than  any  I  have  visited, 
perhaps  on  account  of  the  great  drap- 
eries of  rich  red  (I  know  they  must 
have  been  100  feet  high)  which  were 
hung  over  all  the  bare  spaces  on  the 
massive  pillars;  the  guide  told  us  that 
they  were  only  used  for  special  occa- 
sions. The  church  is  filled  with  memo- 
rials of  the  Popes  in  beautiful  sculptur- 
ed groups  of  heroic  size,  and  the  body 
of  the  late  Pope  is  there  waiting  for  its 
last  resting  place,  which  is  being  pre- 
pared in  the  church  of  St.  John  in  Lat- 
eran,'  which  we  visited  the  next  day. 
From  the  church  we  drove  to  the  Ko- 


TKe  Coliseum  113 

man  Forum,  a  place  full  of  interest,  es- 
pecially on  account  of  the  recent  exca- 
vations within  the  last  two  years.  The 
work  is  going  on  all  the  time;  modern 
churches  and  houses  are  being  torn 
down.  The  old  Christian  church  dating 
from  the  fifth  century,  recently  exca- 
vated, contained  mural  decorations  of 
the  crucifixion  so  well  preserved;  it  also 
showed  the  altar'  and  baptistry.  I 
planted  my  camera  on  a  rock  to  take  a 
time  picture  of  it  when  a  guard  came 
running  up  to  me  telling  me  by  signs 
that  it  was  forbidden  to  take  pictures 
of  the  place.  I  caught  up  with  the 
guide  and  asked  him  about  it,  and  he 
said  that  it  was  only  the  new  excava- 
tions of  which  photographers  were  for- 
bidden to  take  pictures.  I  took  snap 
shots  of  some  of  the  fine  old  columns 
and  arches  which  are  standing  among 
the  ruins.  The  Coliseum  is  quite  near 
the  Forum  so  we  went  there  next.  It 
is  a  grand  old  ruin;  have  seen  it  so 
many  times  in  pictures  but  it  will  al- 
ways mean  so  much  more  to  me  now. 
We  saw  where  the  animals  were  Tcept, 
where  they  fought  and  devoured  the 
Christians,  where  the  Emperor  and  his 
followers  sat,  the  subterranean  passage 
to  Nero's  palace,  the  caves  where  the 
Christians  were  kept,  and  many  other 
interesting  things  in  connection  with 
the  old  ruins. 

The  next  morning  we  visited  first  the 
iaamertine  prison  where  Peter  is  said 
to  have  been  imprisoned  for  several 
months;  it  is  a  horrible,  damp  place, 
dark  as  night,  with  a  single  round  hole 
in  the  ceiling  through  which  the  prison- 
ers were  let  down.  The  opening  is  in 
the  floor  of  a  prison  cell  above,  and  the 
only  other  outlet  is  an  iron  door  open 
ing  into  the  old  Koinan  sewer  where 


114 Holy   Steps         

dead  bodies  were  thrown,  and  no  one 
was  any  the  wiser.  We  each  carried  a 
candle  and  entered  the  cell  by  a  mod- 
ern stairway.  TMs  prison  is  just  at 
one  end  of  the  Forum,  across  the  street. 

The  next  place  we  visited  was  the 
Basilica  or  church  of  St.  John  in  Later- 
an.  Near  here  are  the  celebrated  Holy 
Steps.  These  steps  were  brought  from 
Pilate's  house  at  Jerusalem  and  they 
claim  that  they  were  the  ones  that 
Christ  ascended,  but  we  know  positive- 
ly that  they  are  the  very  steps  that 
Martin  Luther  was  ascending  on  his 
knees  when  the  light  burst  upon  him 
that  "The  just  shall  live  by  faith." 
We  saw  the  poor  creatures  still  going 
up  on  their  knees  and  the  steps  were 
all  worn  smooth  and  round.  In  St. 
Peter's,  too,  one  foot  of  a  bronze 
statue  of  Peter  was  worn  down  to 
a  smooth  shapeless  mass  by  the  kisses 
nnd  caresses  of  the  people;  we  saw 
dozens  of  them  doing  it  while  we  were 
there. 

Just  a  few  steps  from  St.  John's  is 
the  Basilica  of  St.  Maria  Maggiore,  so 
we  visited  it  next,  the  principal  thing 
of  interest  there  being  the  beautiful 
ceiling  made,  they  say,  with  the  first 
gold  discovered  in  America.  Outside  of 
this  church,  to  the  right,  is  a  piece  of 
the  old  acqueduct  of  Nero. 

The  last  church  we  visited  was  St. 
Peter's  in  Vinculis,  where,  for  a  small 
fee,  the  attendant  opened  the  golden 
doors  of  the  altar  and  we  gazed  upon 
the  old  iron  chains  which  bound  Peter 
and  Paul  at  Rome,  But,  as  our  guide 
said,  "this  is  tradition."  Here  the  won- 
derful "Moses"  of  Michael  Angelo 
was  of  the  greatest  interest  to  me. 

Immediately  after  luncheon  we  start- 
ed on  our  drive  to  the  catacombs,  pass- 


Catacombs  115 

ing  on  our  way  the  theatre  of  Mareello, 
Rienzi's  House,  Temple  of  Vesta,  Tem- 
ple of  Fortune  and  the  Gate  of  St. 
Paul  in  the  old  Roman  wall,  and  near  it 
the  Pyramid  of  Caio  Cestio.  The  guide 
was  going  to  take  us  (a  party  of  three 
carriages)  to  the  Catacombs  of  St.  Se- 
bastian which  are  robbed  of  all  inscrip- 
tions but  visited  by  tourists  generally, 
when,  before  starting,  I  remembered  a 
warning  not  to  go  there,  so  I  stood  for 
my  rights.  One  man  was  with  me,  but 
all  the  others  did  not  know  the  differ- 
ence. I  argued  with  the  guide  until  he 
became  angry  and  said  that  he  would 
follow  his  regular  program  and  visit  St. 
Sebastian,  so  I  was  greatly  surprised 
when  we  drew  up  in  front  of  the  Cata- 
combs of  St.  Domitilla,  the  richest  of 
all  in  inscriptions,  and  we  all  went 
through  them  with  our  lighted  candles. 
One  enthusiast  took  a  flash-light  pic- 
ture of  an  altar  and  the  rest  of  us  with 
hand  cameras  seized  the  opportunity 
and  aimed  too,  but  the  result  depends 
upon  whether  or  not  our  cameras  were 
perfectly  steady.  When  going  through 
those  narrow,  dark  passages  I  could  not 
help  thinking  how  thankful  we  ought 
to  be  for  our  religious  liberty.  From 
there  we  drove  a  short  distance  to  the 
_church  of  St.  Sebastian,  and  through  an 
opening  in  the  church  we  looked  down 
upon  some  of  the  Catacombs,  but  did 
not  go  through  them.  We  then  turned 
our  faces  homeward,  driving  through  a 
most  beautiful  country,  part  of  it  the 
Appian  Way,  passing  now  and  then  old 
ruins.  We  urged  our  driver  on  as  fast 
as  possible,  for  I  had  to  reach  the  bank 
before  6  to  get  my  two  drafts  cashed 
and  you  can  imagine  my  anxiety,  for  we 
did  not  reach  it  till  after  6,  and  we 
were  to  leave  too  early  the  next  morn- 


116  Pompeii 

ing,  but  th'ey  were  still  open,  busy  with 
Clark's  party,  for  Mr.  Clark  had  advis- 
ed me  to  cash  them  at  their  bank,  where 
they  could  identify  me,  and  they  were 
very  kind  and  gave  me  the  money  I 
asked  for,  which  was  French. 

Friday  evening. — This  letter  was  in- 
terrupted near  the  beginning  with  car- 
sickness.  It  was  not,  however,  until  I  had 
eaten  the  cold  lunch  with  which  we 
were  al1  provided,  that  I  was  thorough- 
ly upset,  and  I  kept  perfectly  quiet  all 
the  remainder  of  the  journey.  On  reach- 
ing Naples  about  4  o'clock,  our  two 
sections  were  made  into  one  train,  and 
we  left  directly  for  Pompeii,  which  we 
reached  in  about  half  an  hour.  I 
thought  surely  I  would  feel  better  m 
the  open  air  but  instead  grew  worse 
but  managed  to  miss  none  of  Pompeii. 
We  reached  the  place  quite  late, 
so  I  am  afraid  all  our  snapshots 
are  lost;  however,  I  tried  to  take 
a  few  time  pictures,  resting  my  camera 
on  whatever  I  could  find.  The  city, 
buried  for  18  centuries  in  the  ashes,  is, 
of  course,  exceedingly  interesting;  the 
frescoed  walls,  the  bronze  and  marble 
statues,  the  beautiful  mosaic  floors,  are 
almdst  untouched  by  time.  Some  of 
the  gardens  are  newly  planted  with 
flowers,  and  the  rest  of  the  open  court 
is  just  as  it  was  left  hundreds  of  years 
ago,  with  a  fountain  in  the  center  and 
statuary  all  around  the  sides.  The 
plumbing  of  the  pipes  too  is  wonderful; 
after  all  these  years,  when  the  water  is 
turned  on  it  runs  through  these  same 
pipes  which  have  been  untouched,  and 
plays  at  the  fountain.  The  main  street 
of  the  city  was  very  interesting;  it  was 
paved  with  great  stones,  and  the  char- 
iot wheels  had  worn  grooves  six  inches 
in  width  in  the  hard  rock.  In  the  mu- 
seum there,  we  saw  many  interesting 


objects  taken  from  the  city,  among 
them  the  perfectly  preserved  bodies  of 
the  victims.  Fortunately  for  me,  when 
we  left  the  museum,  we  were  almost  at 
the  station,  and  the  train  was  to 
leave  in  15  minutes — at  7  o'clock — but 
I  waa  growing  so  very  ill  that  I  began 
to  look  for  my  Mr.  Johnson  and  hia 
medicine.  I  found  him,  but  his  medicine 
was  left  in  the  train,  so  I  managed  to 
get  to  the  boat  somehow — went  right 
to  bed,  took  a  dose  of  Mr.  Johnson's 
medicine,  but  was  sick  all  night  and  of 
course  still  in  bed  when  the  party  left 
yesterday  morning  in  a  thunder  storm, 
for  Vesuvius.  I  was  so  disappointed 
not  to  make  the  ascent  but  I  had  not 
bought  my  ticket  yet,  so  T  did  not  lose 
that.  Some  of  the  party  turned  back 
on  account  of  the  storm,  but  those  who 
went,  reported  a  splendid  trip.  The 
crowd  who  started  for  the  island  of 
Capri  at  the  same  time,  were  all  brought 
back  just  after  starting,  as  it  was  too 
dangerous  to  attempt  it  in  a  stormy 
sea.  I  got  up  yesterday  afternoon,  and 
this  morning  Mr.  Lorenz,  Mrs.  Park, 
and  I,  went  for  a  street  car  ride  in  Na- 
ples, just  to  see  the  city;  it  proved 
to  be  a  very  enjoyable  little  trip,  and 
we  reached  our  landing  just  in  time, 
with  a  few  minutes  to  spare,  for  we 
sailed  shortly  after  11.  We  had  such  a 
good  joke  on  Mrs.  Park  that  I  will  have 
to  tell  it.  You  know  Naples  is  noted 
for  its  pickpockets,  several  of  our  peo- 
ple having  their  watches  and  purses 
jerked  off  of  them  in  plain  daylight,  one 
poor  man  being  put  in  jail  for  taking 
after  the  boy  who  robbed  him.  So  we 
feel  that  Mrs.  Park  living  in  this  at- 
mosphere is  not  responsible.  We  had 
barely  started  on  our  ride  when  she 
reached  down  in  her  large  coat  sleeve 
and  picked  up  a  gold  pin,  (a  claw  hold- 


116 Naples 

ing  a  large  pink  coral)  saying:  "Why! 
I  didn't  buy  this,  how  did  it  get  in  my 
fdeeve?"  It  still  had  the  price  mark  on 
it  and  I  guess  it  was  scooped  up  by  the 
open  "bell"  sleeve,  but  we  had  lots  of 
fun  over  it,  and  kept  our  eyes  on  her 
all  the  rest  of  the  trip  pretending  that 
she  had  turned  a  kleptomaniac. 

We  have  been  packing  this  afternoon 
again  and  have  each  sent  another  bun- 
dle into  the  hold  to  be  stored  in  New 
York. 

I  had  to  buy  something  in  Naples,  so 
on  the  way  to  the  station  I  bought  a 
small  water- jug  for  3  cents;  the  boy 
thought  I  wanted  water  in  it  and  made 
me  wait  while  he  went  off  and  filled  it; 
when  he  brought  it  back  I  made  signs 
and  started  to  pour  it  out,  then  he 
made  me  wait  again,  and  went  off  and 
got  a  glass,  supposing  I  wanted  a 
drink.  I  filled  the  glass,  and  walked  off 
with  the  jug,  and  I  wisli  you  could  have 
seen  that  boy's  face;  be  stood  there 
spellbound,  looking  first  at  me  and  then 
at  the  glass  of  water  in  his  band.  When 
we  reached  the  "Kurfurst"  the  steps 
were  surrounded  with  small  boats  full 
of  fruits,  baskets,  corals,  oil  paintings, 
fans,  jewelry,  etc.,  etc.,  and  we  had  to 
run  the  gauntlet;  but  we  landed  at  last 
with  watches  and  pocketbooks  safe,  and 
soon  after  we  sailed. 


NICE 


LETTER  NO.  14. 

NICE,  SUNDAY,  MAY  8, 1904. 


E  ARE  here  in  Nice  and  cannot  leave 
till  tomorrow  morning.  We  wished  very 
much  to  take  the  midnight  train  last 
night,  or  even  tonight,  but  cannot,  be- 
cause we  have  an  order  on  Thos.  Cook 
&  Sons  for  our  hotel  coupons  which  are 
already  paid  for,  but  must  be  secured 
here,  and  as  they  do  not  open  until  to- 
morrow morning  we  must  wait  in  pa- 
tience and  lose  a  day.  Our  plan  was  to 
spend  Sunday  iu  Genoa,  but  now  we 
shall  not  stop  there,  unless  it  is  over 
one  train,  in  order  to  get  our  dinner. 

"VVe  attended  the  Scotch  Presbyterian 
church  here  this  morning,  where  we  met 
about  a  dozen  more  of  the  "Kurfurst" 
tribe  and  you  can  imagine  we  gave 
them  a  warm  handshake,  although  we 
had  been  separated  only  a  few  hours. 
When  one  is  among  strangers  how  good 
it  is  to  see  a  familiar  face.  We  beard 
a  splendid  sermon,  and  I  think  the  min- 
ister must  have  known  we  were  coming 
for  he  offered  a  most  beautiful  prayer 
for  the  President  of  the  United  States 
and  "that  great  people." 

It  was  quite  a  white  after  lunch- 
con  yesterday  wlu-n  v,c  readied  Ville- 


ISO  Comiche  Road 

franehe,  the  last  stop  but  one  on  the 
"Kurfurst"  program.  The  sea  was  so 
rough  that  150  passengers  refused  to 
land  in  the  rowboats  and  were  left  on 
board.  They  missed  it,  for  it  was  the 
most  beautiful  drive  we  had  yet  taken. 
Mrs,  Park  and  I  were  among  the  first 
to  land  at  Villefranche,  and  we  were 
anxious  to  claim  our  baggage,  which  we 
supposed  had  already  reached  shore; 
but  what  was  our  disappointment  to 
learn  that  it  would  not  come  for  two 
hours,  and  that  we  must  wait  for  it  to 
claim  it  from  the  custom  officials  and 
thus  miss  our  drive.  After  almost  an 
hour,  Mr.  Clark  made  arrangements  to 
have  all  the  baggage  sent  to  Nice,  if  we 
would  surrender  our  keys  so  that  it 
could  be  examined.  This  we  gladly  did 
for  we  were  anxious  to  reach  Nice  be- 
fore Cook's  office  closed.  So  we  started 
about  4  o'clock  on  our  beautiful  drive, 
touched  Nice,  and  were  out  of  it  again 
before  we  realized  what  had  happened. 
I  watched  for  some  of  our  party  who 
had  started  early,  to  return  to  Nice 
with  them,  but  not  one  carriage  did  we 
pass — only  a  milk  wagon  or  something 
of  the  kind,  and  the  man  was  so  fiendish 
looking  that  T  was  afraid  to  trust  my- 
self to  him.  On  and  on  we  drove,  over 
the  finest  kind  of  a  macademized  road, 
winding  around  the  high  cliffs  over- 
looking the  Mediterranean  sea.  Now 
and  then  we  caught  glimpses  of  the 
snow-capped  Alps,  and  when  we  sud- 
denly rounded  a  curve  and  caught  sight 
of  the  dear  old  "(Kurfurst"  lying  at 
anchor  many  feet  below  us,  we  rose  to 
our  feet  in  welcome  and  waved  her  a 
last  farewell.  At  about  7  o'clock  we 
reached  a  villa  where  we  were  told  to 
dismount  ami  walk  a  short  distance  to 
get  a  view  of  Monte  Carlo,  and  what  a 
sight  it  was!  A  thousand  feet  below  us 


Nice 121 

we  looked  down  upon  it.  I  imagine  it 
was  more  beautiful  from  the  mountain 
than  from  a  closer  view  point,  for  we 
did  not  see  the  disgusting  part  which  a 
number  of  our  people  reported  who 
went  there.  We  were  almost  frozen,  it 
was  so  cold,  and  I'm  afraid  it  would 
have  been  the  last  of  me  if  I  had  not 
wrapped  up  in  one  of  the  horse's  blank- 
ets, and  opened  my  umbrella,  to  keep 
the  wind  off.  I  also  procured  the  other 
horse  blanket  for  Mrs.  Park,  and  every- 
body laughed  at  us,  for  we  looked  like 
Indians.  It  was  quite  dark  so  that  we 
could  not  enjoy  the  returti  drive  until 
we  came  in  sight  of  Nice,  which  lay 
away  below  us,  a  twinkling  mass  of 
lights,  a  beautiful  sight.  The  return 
was  all  down  grade  and  we  arrived  at 
our  hotel  here.  "The  Terminus,"  about 
9  o  'clock,  where  we  all  had  dinner,  and 
you  can  imagine  what  an  appetite  the 
mountain  air  had  given  us.  The  drive 
was  on  the  upper  Corniche  Eoad, 
considered,  I  believe,  the  most  beauti- 
ful drive  in  the  world.  After  our  din- 
ner I  tried  to  find  some  one  who  knew 
about  the  hotels  where  Cook's  coupons 
were  accepted,  but  could  find  no  one,  so 
presented  my  list  to  the  hotel  clerk  and 
asked  him  which  was  the  nearest  hotel. 
With  fearful  looks  out  into  the  dark- 
ness he  told  me  that  they  were  all  very 
far  away.  I  WHS  not  satisfied  and  later 
on  asked  a  stranger  who  spoke  English 
and  he. took  us  to  one  on  my  list  three 
or  four  doors  from  the  "Terminus,"  so 
you  will  see  the  kind  of  people  we  have 
to  deal  with.  I  have  to  use  my  French 
more  than  I  did  when  with  papa,  for 
then  I  left  it  all  to  him.  I  can  usually 
make  them  understand  me,  but  I  don't 
pretend  to  understand  them.  I  find 
myself  unconsciously  thinking  in 
French,  and  when  Mrs.  Park  suddenly 


122  Genoa 

asks  me  a  question,  I  answer  promptly 
"Oui!  Ouif"  (We  have  the  French 
"shrug"  down  pat). 

Monday,  May  9.— I  am  writing  from 
Genoa  now,  the  birthplace  of  Columbus, 
having  arrived  at  dinnertime  this  even- 
ing, and  we  leave  again  at  11:45  to- 
night for  Florence.  We  only  stopped 
off  in  order  to  get  dinner,  and  to  reach 
Florence  at  a  better  hour — 7:27  in  the 
morning.  We  ate  crackers  and  fruit, 
(nice  ripe  cherries)  at  noon  on  the 
train  and  had  breakfast  at  Nice  before 
we  left.  Keeping  track  of  trains  and 
baggage  is  enough  to  make  one  lose 
one's  head  in  this  country.  We  changed 
cars  and  had  all  our  baggage  e  tamined 
at  Vintinelle,  on  the  way  here  today, 
and  everything  was  utter  confusion.  The 
train  was  to  leave  in  a  few  minutes, 
and  we  had  to  sign  our  tickets  and  get 
a  porter  to  carry  our  baggage  back  to 
the  train  One  kind  man  took  pity  on 
us  and  conducted  us  through  a  gate 
down  a  long  narrow  passage  and  into 
a  little  dark  room  where  there  was 
only  a  table,  chair,  pen,  ink  and  sand. 
We  signed  our  tickets,  and  then  we 
watched  him  carefully  sprinkle  sand 
over  the  writing  in  order  to  blot  it.  We 
could  not  get  hold  of  a  porter— they 
were  all  engaged — but  looking  up  1 
saw  a  "Cook's"  man  with  folded  arms 
leaning  on  a  railing.  I  told  him  that 
we  belonged  to  Cook's  party  and  want- 
ed help,  but  he  scarcely  moved  a  hand. 
We  finally  secured  a  porter  and  then 
had  no  time  to  spare,  so  I  begged 
"Cook's"  man  to  please  show  us 
through  the  rest  of  the  red  tape;  he 
only  pointed  and  told  us  to  go  through 
a  certain  gate,  down  a  hafl  and  through 
a  room.  I  could  stand  it  no  longer  so  I 
said:  "It's  your  business  to  help  us, 
you  must  go  with  us."  He  answered: 


Genoa  128 

"All  right,  then;  I'll  go  with  the 
baby, ' '  and  muttering  all  the  way  he 
went  with  us.  I  said  nothing  until  we 
had  reached  the  train  platform  then  I 
asked  him  "how  in  the  world  he 
thought  that  we  could  have  found  our 
way  through  all  that."  He  muttered 
again  something  about  babies  not  know- 
ing the  way,  and  left  us  to  find  a  com- 
partment ourselves.  One  of  the  train 
men,  however,  finally  found  a  place 
large  enough  for  us  and  our  luggage, 
and  we  had  no  further  trouble.  I  forgot 
to  mention  that  "Cook's"  man  was 
very  handsome  and  wore  a  swell  uni- 
form. I  don't  know  but  he  wore  gloves 
also.  We  met  some  of  the  "Kurfurst" 
party  at  this  hotel;  at  our  table  tonight 
there  were  ten  people — five  of  them 
from  Oregon.  We  met  for  the  first  time 
this  evening  Dr.  Pohl,  of  Portland;  she 
is  very  pleasant.  The  other  two  ladies 
we  have  met  quite  often. 

Mr.  Lorenz  has  been  so  kind  to  us, 
and  we  have  enjoyed  his  company  at 
our  table  very  much.  You  know  he  is 
the  music  publisher  I  told  you  of  and  is 
editor  of  the  "Choir  Leader,"  from 
which  we  have  sung  many  anthems.  A 
hymn  that  he  wrote  was  translated  into 
Arabic,  and  they  were  using  it  at  Mt. 
Carmel,  away  off  in  Palestine,  which 
was  a  pleasant  surprise  for  him,  al- 
though .his  compositions  are  used  every- 
where. He  was  formerly  a  minister. 
He  has  very  kindly  invited  us  to  visit 
him  and  his  family  on  our  way  home, 
but  of  course  it  will  be  impossible  for 
us  to  do  so. 

There  is  a  fine  memorial  statue  to 
Columbus  just  in  front  of  our  hotel  and 
that  is  probably  all  we  will  see  of  Gen- 
oa. We  took  a  walk  up  street  this 


12-4  Genoa 

evening  and  bought  a  few  little  souven- 
irs. We  also  heard  the  cathedral  chimes 
this  evening. 


FLORENCE 


LETTER  NO.  15. 


GRAND  HOTEL,   PORTA  ROSSA  AND  CENTRAL,   FLOR- 
ENCE, MAY  10,  1904. 


T  DOES  not  seem  possible  that  we 
left  Genoa  just  last  evening;  this 
has  been  such  a  long  twenty-four 
hours.  The  Hotel  Royal,  at  Genoa 
where  we  stopped,  is  just  at  the  station, 
so  we  had  no  trouble  in  getting  off  on 
the  right  train,  but  we  were  stopped  at 
the  gate  by  the  ticket  man,  who  said 
that  one  of  my  bags  was  too  large  to 
take  into  the  compartment  with  us  and 
I  must  register  it,  but  with  a  hint  from 
the  hotel  clerk,  a  franc  fixed  that  all 
right.  Just  think  of  it;  our  baggage 
was  handled  nine  times  from  Nice  to 
this  place!  Do  not  wonder  if  our  hair 
hao  turned  gray  when  we  reach  home. 
Two  nice  old  ladies  occupied  the  com- 
partment with  us,  we  had  quite  a 
comfortable  lounge  until  3:30  in  the 
morning-,  when  we  had  to  change  cars 
at  Pisa  and  wait  over  an  hour  for  our 
train.  From  there  on  to  Florence  our 
compartment  was  full  so  that  we  could 
not  sleep,  but  it  was  daylight,  and  we 
enjoyed  the  scenery.  From  Nice  to  the 
place  where  we  first  changed  cars  we 
traveled  first  class,  with  the  "nobility 
and  fools. ' '  This  was  not  our  fault,  be- 
cause the  second  class  tickets  were  :•.!! 


126  Florence 

gone.  A  nice  young  Englishman  told 
me  today  that  everybody  traveled  third 
class  in  England  and  they  pride  them- 
selves upon  their  fine  trains.  We  caught 
a  glimpse  of  the  leaning  tower  at  Pisa; 
in  fact  two  glimpses,  one  by  moonlight, 
the  other  by  daybreak,  and  a  little  later 
we  saw  the  sun  rise  golden  over  the 
beautiful  mountains.  We  passed  nu- 
merous vineyards  and  saw  the  peasants 
just  starting  to  work  in  them.  Trees  of 
different  varieties  are  planted  about  ten 
feet  apart,  and  the  grapevines  are  train- 
ed upon  these  and  festooned  from  one 
tree  to  another;  we  saw  this  also  in 
Naples,  only  on  much  taller  trees. 

I  was  struck  with  the  absence  of  the 
Italian  costume;  it  is  rarely  seen — only 
the  hoad-dresses  are  worn  in  the  fields. 
Wash  day  in  this  country  is  kept  no 
secret;  here  the  women  go  to  the  public 
stone  washtubs  and  pound  their  clothes 
to  cleanse  them,  then  dry  them  any- 
where. We  saw  the  streets  of  Naples 
filled  with  clothes  lines,  one  Friday, 
then  the  next  day  we  landed  at  Ville- 
franche  and  it  was  wash  day  there. 

Instead  of  shouting  ''All  aboard"  as 
is  done  in  our  country  when  the  train  is 
about  to  start,  they  ring  a  cow-bell  or 
blow  a  brass  horn,  then  the  engine  gives 
a  short  toot  and  iu  an  instant  we  are 
off,  safely  locked  in. 

Mrs.  Park  and  I  are  becoming  quite 
proficient  in  Italian  as  we  have  master- 
ed the  word  for  pillow,  which  is  "go-on 
Charlie"  (guan  chawlie). 

May  12th.— -Florence  was  a  great  sur- 
prise to  me  and  we  were  so  fortunate  in 
having  a  good  guide  there.  It  is  such 
a  great  art  center— more  mawterpieees 
MI  ;.:mitiry,  and  sculpture  are  there  than 
in  any  other  city,  I  believe.  Our  guide 
K:'S  an  artist  himself,  and  knew  the  his- 
tory of  every  work  of  art  so  that  we 


Florence  127 

were  more  than  fortunate  in  securing 
him.  Cook's  guides  were  all  engaged 
and  I  was  about  to  give  up  until  tho 
next  day,  when  this  man  was  brought  to 
me  by  a  guide.  He  has  quite  a  history. 
He  was  born  in  Florence  and  studied 
art  there,  was  married  and  went  to  Tex- 
as where  he  painted  and  ran  a  ranch  for 
ten  years;  at  the  end  of  that  time  he 
was  thrown  from  a  horse,  and  as  he 
lay  on  the  ground  was  bitten  by  a 
young  rattlesnake,  just  below  the  eye. 
After  six  months  of  suffering  he  recov- 
ered, but  is  totally  blind  in  one  eye  and 
the  other  eye  is  very  weak  so  that  ho 
had  to  give  up  painting.  He  came  back 
to  Florence  and  is  beginning  to  act  p.s 
a  guide.  We  had  him  with  us  the  first 
afternoon  we  were  in  Florence,  and  the 
next  morning  also.  We  visited  first 
the  Uffizi  Gallery,  and  the  first  rooms 
we  entered  were  filled  with  portraits  of 
famous  artists  painted  by  themselves, 
from  centuries  ago  down  to  the  present 
time;  they  were  so  interesting.  Then 
our  guide  took  us  out  into  the  long  ha'ls 
and  showed  us  art  from  its  beginning, 
almost — so  very  crude — and  then  on 
down  to  the  present  time.  He  then  se- 
lected only  the  master-pieces  in  each 
room,  explaining  them  fully,  and  it 
would  be  impossible  to  tell  you  about 
them.  We  then  went  to  the  Pitti  Pal- 
ace, to  visit  the  galleries  there.  They 
are  connected  with  the  Utiizi  galleries 
by  a  long  covered  hallway  and  bridge 
over  the  Arno  the  walls  of  which  are 
literally  lined  with  thousands  of  por- 
traits of  the  ancestors  and  friends  of 
the  Medici  family.  The  Pitti  Palace  is 
a  gallery  of  masterpieeces,  the  Madon- 
na of  the  chair  the  most  famous,  but 
our  poor  bo.dies  were  pretty  well  worn 
out  when  we  had  finished  with  them,  so 
our  wise  guide  called  a  carriage  and 


125  Florence 

took  us  for  a  drive  to  one  of  the  beau- 
tiful sections  of  Florence,  which  vested 
us,  and  landed  us  at  our  hotel  just  in 
time  for  dinner.  The  next  morning  <-.t  9 
we  started  out  again  with  the  same 
guide.  At  my  request  (the  day  befor)), 
he  took  us  to  a  place  where  I  could  ruy 
a  jug  of  some  kind.  He  was  a  good 
judge  of  decorative  work  so  we  bought 
a  few  little  things  in  Florentine  majo- 
lica ware,  very  inexpensive,  but  so 
pretty.  We  then  visited  a  beautiful 
church,  the  one  which  Michael  Angelo 
called  his  "bride;"  it  was  planned  by 
two  monks  find  there  is  a  strange  thing 
connected  with  it,  called  by  our  j»uide 
an  optical  illusion.  We  entered,  of 
course,  by  the  front  door  and  he 
took  us  straight  up  in  front  of  the  altar, 
turned  us  around,  and  then  asked  if  we 
noticed  anything  strange  about  the 
h.  We  answered  immediately  that 
it  seemed  a  third  shorter  than  it  looked 
from  the  door,  and  then  he  explained 
how  this  was  done,  or  rather,  he  let  us 
discover  it  for  ourselves.  About  half 
way  between  the  altar  and  the  door  Kre 
two  low  steps  crossing  the  entire  florr; 
in  front  of  these  steps  the  great  pillars 
are  much  closer  together  than  below 
the  steps,  but  from  the  door  this  it  not 
apparent  and  so  the  distance  seems  to 
be  increased.  There  are  wonderful  fres- 
voes  in  this  old  church,  and  many  inter- 
est in«  tombs.  We  next  drove  to  the 
i  ':uncr:i  <  'lub  of  the  citv,  where  I  wished 
to  inquire  about  the  Holland  oxh;bi- 
tion.  I  learned,  much  to  my  regret,  that 
it  would  not  open  till  June  1st. 

We  next  visited  the  Academy,  where 
we  saw  many  fine  things,  the  greatest 
of  all,  Michael  Angelo's  statue  "Da- 
vid;" it  is  of  heroic  size,  and  well 
placed  at  the  end  of  a  long  hall  <  f 
statuary.  I  think  the  Florentine  gal- 


Florence  129 

leries  are  better  arranged  than  any  I 
have  ever  visited.  Art  students  ore 
everywhere  copying  the  old  masters. 
It  will  give  you  an  idea  of  the  length 
of  time  they  some  times  have  to  wait, 
when  I  tell  you  that  a  young  artist  who 
was  copying  a  madonna  yesterday, 
signed  15  years  ago  for  his  turn.  I 
should  think  he  would  change  his  mind 
and  paint  a  picture  not  quite  so  popu- 
lar. The  students  are  granted  great 
privileges;  any  picture  they  want  to 
copy,  no  matter  how  large,  is  taken 
down  and  placed  in  a  good  light.  We 
visited  another  small  gallery  filled  with 
models  and  designs  of  the  great  cathed- 
ral of  Florence,  from  the  past  centuries 
down  to  the  last  one,  accepted  for  the 
facade,  which  is  quite  new.  Our  won- 
derful guide  has  made  a  study  of  archi- 
tecture also,  so  he  gave  us  the  history 
of  the  cathedral,  pointing  out  the  addi- 
tions from  time  to  time.  The  great 
cathedral  is  so  very  impressive,  the  ex- 
terior I  mean,  the  second  ^argest  in  the 
world.  Just  opposite  it  is  the  great 
Baptistry  (originally  the  Cathedral  of 
Florence)  where  every  child  in  Florence 
is  baptised  at  the  age  of  three  days  and 
over.  At  the  entrance  of  this  building 
are  the  famous  bronze  doors  by  Ghib- 
erti  of  the  15th  century.  In  the  last  gal- 
lery mentioned,  we  saw  Eobbia  's  fam- 
ous "singing  children,"  always  a  fav- 
orite subject  of  mine;  they  are  so  beau- 
tiful. 

After  we  left  this  gallery,  we  visited 
a  shop  or  two,  then  went  to  our  hotel 
anJ  settled  up  with  our  guide  and  with 
each  other,  which  was  not  easy  by  any 
means,  as  we  had  all  contributed  to  the 
morning's  expenses. 

We  ate  our  luncheon,  packed,  and  left 
on  the  3  o'clock  train.  While  we  were 
waiting  at  the  station,  two  large  parties 


13O  Florence 

of  Clark's,  from  the  Kurfurst  original- 
ly, came  and  took  possession  of  the 
place;  in  fact  the  train  was  so  much 
delayed  by  their  unexpected  arrival, 
that  we  reached  Venice  a  half  hour  late. 
While  at  the  station  we  spent  our 
time  greeting  old  friends,  and  watch- 
ing with  interest  a  bridal  party;  and 
what  should  be  our  fate  but  to  ride 
in  the  same  compartment  with  the 
bride  and  groom  all  the  way  to  Bo- 
logna! Our  good  or  ill  fortune  was 
shared  by  a  gentleman  and  his  wife 
from  Scotland  (very  pleasant,  congenial 
people)  and  all  went  well  for  about  five 
minutes,  when  the  smoke  from  the  tun- 
nels caused  the  groom  to  lose  all  inter- 
est in  life,  and  the  young  wife's  trou- 
bles began.  During  a  search  in  her  va- 
lise, (presumably  for  restoratives),  the 
bride's  bouquet  of  orange  blossoms 
came  to  light;  this  aroused  the  groom, 
and  together  they  enjoyed  a  few  bliss- 
ful moments  examining  boxes  of  wed- 
ding gifts,  but  alas!  this  was  of  short 
duration,  for  in  a  careless  moment  the 
bride  dropped  the  groom's  "bran" 
new  black  felt  hat  on  to  the  dusty  floor. 
The  words  that  followed  were  in  a  for- 
eign language,  but  intonations,  facial 
expressions  and  signs  are  the  same  the 
world  over,  and  we  all  pitied  the  poor 
bride  from  tho  bottom  of  our  hearts;  as 
for  the  groom,  he  nursed  the  injured  hat 
all  the  remainder  of  the  trip. 

The  second  half  of  our  journay  we 
traveled  with  some  interesting  people 
also;  in  fact,  we  spent  all  of  our  time 
weaving  a  romance  about  them,  but  it 
is  too  long  a  story  to  tell  here. 

I  must  tell  you  the  history  of  the  Red 
Doors  which  you  see  on  this  stationery. 
The  Porta  Rossa  Hotel  (meaning  red 
doors)  where  we  stopped  while  in  Flor- 


Florence  131 

enee  is  a  very  old  building  an<i  was 
used  for  years  as  a  custom  house,  up  to 
the  17th  century,  when  it  was  re- 
modeled, and  it  has  always  had  red 
doors.  Mrs.  Park  is  certain  that  it  was 
once  the  palace  of  a  princess,  and  sfter 
living  for  two  days  in  the  overwhelm- 
ing magnificence  of  our  apartment  T 
quite  agreed  with  her.  She  has  written 
Mr.  Park  of  the  frescoed  walls  and 
high  vaulted  ceiling  of  our  room,  the 
srreat  mirrors  in  gold  Florentine  frames, 
the  twin  beds  and  furniture  of  histori- 
cal periods  in  the  dim  past,  but  I  am 
not  certain  that  she  mentioned  the  -loor. 
This  could  not  be  discovered  except  for 
the  old-fashioned  knob,  as  it  was  a 
piece  of  the  wall  on  hinges  cut  right 
out  of  the  "scenery"  with  no  wood- 
work whatever.  I  am  so  thankful  that 
T  have  Mrs.  Park  away  from  there,  for 
she  was  growing  too  romantic  to  live 
with,  and  to  make  matters  worse  all  the 
hotel  clerks  behaved  fike  "knights  of 
old." 


VENICE 


LETTER  NO.  16. 


VENICE,  GRAND  CANAL  HOTEL,  ET  MONACO,  A.  Tl- 

cozzi,  PROPRIETAIRE,  LE  MAY,  13,  1904. 


ND  NOW  COMES  VENICE  !  It  was 
my  turn  to  feel  romantic  when  we 
reached  here  at  night,  took  our  own 
gondola  and  quietly  glided  over  the 
waters  to  our  hotel.  As  we  left  the  sta- 
tion and  I  settled  down  comfortably  on 
the  soft  cushions  I  remarked  that  I 
hoped  it  would  be  a  long  way  to  the 
hotel,  and  so  it  proved  to  be.  For  full 
half  an  hour  we  glided  along,  deftly 
rounding  corners,  passing  under  little 
stone  bridges,  now  in  darkness  and  now 
in  the  light  of  the  lanterns  which  were 
so  prettily  reflected  in  the  water.  As 
we  drew  near  the  Grand  canal  (on 
which  most  of  the  hotels,  including 
ours  is  situated)  the  sound  of  music 
reached  our  ears,  and  when  we  sudden- 
ly came  upon  it,  Venice  at  night  in  all 
its  beauty  burst  upon  us.  Everything 
was  brightly  illuminated.  The  gondolas 
occupied  by  the  musicians  were  deco- 
rated in  colored  lights,  and  all  was  re- 
flected in  the  water,  which  was  full  of 
movement,  and  the  effect  cannot  be  de- 
scribed. A  short  distance  on  the  Grand 
canal  and  we  reached  our  hotel.  We 
were  welcomed,  of  course,  but  not  with 
the  grand  air  of  Florence,  which  was 
disappointing.  We  were  lulled  to  sleep 


154- Venice 

by  the  singing  musicians  and  not  by 
horses'  hoofs  upon  stone  pavements, 
which  is  our  usual  lullaby.  And  speak- 
ing of  horses,  there  are  scores  of  people 
in  Venice  over  70  years  old  who  have 
never  seen  a  horse  and,  of  course,  none 
of  the  younger  people  have,  unless  they 
have  been  out  of  the  city,  for  there  is 
not  a  horse  in  Venice.  Another  strange 
thing  about  the  city  is  that  there  are 
never  any  drowning  accidents;  every - 
o:-"  can  swim. 

Yesterday  morning  after  breakfast 
we  hunted  up  Thos.  Cook  &  Son's 
office,  which  is  near  our  hotel  (at 
one  side  of  St.  Mark's):  ~e 
walked  there,  through  little  narrow 
streets,  and  on  our  wav.  of  course,  came 
upon  the  square  in  front  of  St.  Marks 
where  the  pigeons  arp  fed  bv  the  chil- 
dren and  tourists.  T  took  Mrs.  Park's 
picture  with  a  pigeon  eating  from  her 
hand.  Tt  is  indeed  a  curious  sight  to 
see  thousands  of  them  so  tame.  The 
old  Cathedral  of  St.  Marks  T  think  is 
beautiful.  T  don't  know  the  opinion  of 
architects — it  is  such  n  mixture  of  arch- 
itecture: wp  have  not  been  inride  vet. 
There  were  no  letters  for  us  at  Cook's, 
and  we  are  trving  verv  hard  to  be  con- 
tented without  them,  but  I'm  afraid 
that  we  are  making  faster  time  than 
vou  expected  and  so  the  mail  will  miss 
ni  all  the  wav  to  London.  We  have  our 
nrogram  all  marie  out.  We  are  spending 
another  dav  here  becausp  we  would 
rnther  have  it  than  at  Milan,  ns  there 
we  onlv  wish  to  get  the  remain- 
der of  our  tickets  (for  which  we  have 
an  order),  see  the  cathedral  and 
Leonardo  de  Vinci's  "Last  Supper." 
and  we  can  do  that  in  hnlf  a  dny  to- 
morrow and  leave  for  Lucerne  Saturday 
night,  reaching  there  Sunday  morning, 


Venice  135 

where  we  will  spend  the  Sabbath.  If 
we  had  an  extra  day  we  would  run 
down  to  Interlaken  from  there  but  we 
must  push  on  Monday  morning  and  take 
the  Rhine  trip  Tuesday,  spend  Thurs- 
day at  Haarlem,  Friday  at  The  Hague 
(that  is  the  day  of  their  street  fair), 
and  Saturday  afternooon  reach  Paris. 
We  will  leave  there  Tuesday  night  at 
the  latest,  leave  London  for  our  Scot- 
land and  Ireland  trip  of  three  days  and 
back  to  London  Saturday  night  where 
we  will  spend  the  remainder  of  the 
time.  So  this  is  our  program  if  our 
weary  bodies  are  able  to  carry  it  out. 
We  are'  tired  of  museums,  churches, 
etc.,  and  look  with  wonder  upou  our 
fellow  tourists  still  visiting  them. 

Yesterday  morning  after  we  returned 
from  Cook's  we  hired  a  gondola  for  an 
hour  and  a  half  at  a  franc  (20  cents)  an 
hour,  giving  orders  to  be  taken  through 
the  smaller  canals,  and  it  was  just  fine. 
I  enjoyed  every  minute  of  it.  Of  course, 
T  took  some  snapshots,  but  the  high 
point  of  our  gondola  was  in  the  way 
most  of  the  lime  an'd  the  gondolier 
could  not  always  turn  to  one  side  on  ac- 
count of  other  boats  passing.  They  are 
so  deft  in  steering  the  long  boats  with 
their  single  oar.  We  hired  a  guide  for 
the  afternoon,  but  he  was  almost  a  su- 
perfluous appendage,  for  the  galleries 
and  museums  were  all  closed  on  account 
of  the  holiday,  (Assumption  day)  which 
after  all,  was  fortunate  for  us,  for  we 
were  simply  too  tired  to  see  anything. 

Our  guide  took  us  first  to  a  Vmitian 
^lass  store  and  factory,  where  his  com- 
mission trick  failed  to  work,  as  we 
would  not  buy.  It  was  very  inf.eresting 
to  see  the  glass  being  spi: 
and  the  mosaic  patterns  being  worked 
out,  but  the  great  gaudy  chandeliers 


136  Venice 

and  mirrors  are  not  beautiful.  The  wood 
carving  done  at  the  same  place  is  inter- 
esting. We  took  a  ferry  to  see  the 
market,  which  amounted  to  nothing,  as 
the  greater  part  was  cleared  away. 
These  ferry  boats  run  up  and  down  the 
Grand  canal  very  close  together,  as  they 
do  in  London  and  Paris  and  were  crowd- 
ed all  day  yesterday.  We  passed  the 
boat  racers  in  their  white  uniforms, 
with  red  roses  in  their  caps,  and  wit- 
nessed one  race  from  the  ferry.  Later 
in  the  day  we  saw  from  our  window  a 
very  long  racing  boat  with  10  men  row- 
ing, all  standing.  From  the  market  we 
hired  a  gondola  and  went  out  into  two 
lagoons,  where,  looking  across  one  of 
them  we  saw  the  cemetery  of  Venice, 
on  an  island;  this  reminds  me  of 
the  gondolas,  which  are  always  painted 
black  with  black  funereal  draperies,  re- 
lieved only  with  brass  dragons  or  other 
ornamental  designs  at  the  sides.  I  en- 
quired of  the  guide  the  reason  for  this, 
and  be  said  that  after  the  great  plague 
of  1631  when  within  nine  months  40,000 
Veuitians  died  of  it,  the  govern- 
ment ordered  all  the  gay  gondolas 
painted  black,  and  black  they  are  to 
this  day  with  hardly  an  exception— 
my  only  objection  to  them. 

Venice  is  built  on  wooden  piles  and 
on  72  islands.  One  bridge,  a  span  over 
which  we  passed  yesterday,  was  built 
on  thousands  of  piles.  It  seems  that 
there  is  a  certain  kind  of  wood  which 
does  not  decay  in  sea  water. 

This  morning  we  went  again  for  mail 
and  on  business  to  Cook's  office  and  as 
far  as  the  former  is  concerned  were 
again  disappointed.  Mrs.  Park  return- 
ed to  the  hotel  and  I  went  in  search  of 
a  brass  and  copper  store  which  we  vis- 
ited yesterday  with  our  guide,  but  I 


Venice 137 

preferred  to  bargain  without  him  and 
save  the  commission.  I  bought  such  a 
pretty  old  brass  tray,  a  bronze  knocker 
(for  future  use),  and  a  small  copper 
pot,  and  I  am  so  pleased  with  all  three. 
After  our  luncheon  Mrs.  Park  took  a 
nap,  and  I  gathered  together  my  sketch- 
ing materials,  hired  a  gondola  and 
started  out.  I  selected  a  pretty  spot, 
dismissed  the  gondolier  and  started  in. 
I  was  not  without  an  audience  from  the 
first,  but  they  were  quite  useful  to  me. 
From  one  I  hired  a  chair,  another, 
unasked,  emptied  my  jug  of  water  and 
brought  me  some  fresh,  two  or  three 
others  shook  from  my  umbrella  the  dust 
and  ants  of  the  bridge,  another  brought 
me  some  refreshments,  and  still  another 
acted  as  critic.  At  the  end  of  two 
hours  I  called  a  passing  gondolier  and 
was  endeavoring  by  signs  and  a  mix- 
ture of  languages  to  tell  him  wnat  1 
wished  when  he  said:  ''Do  you  speak 
English?"  and  it  was  such  a  shock  to 
hear  my  own  language,  and  that  from 
a  gondoiier  that  1  just  leaned  back  and 
laughed.  He  was  as  good  as  a  police- 
man; for  half  an  hour  he  kept  the  chil 
dren  at  a  distance  while  i  sketched, 
then  on  the  way  back  to  the  hotel  in- 
sisted upon  taking  me  to  see  the  great 
furnace  where  tue  glass  is  melted.  He 
said  he  did  not  care  for  expenses  and 
he  wouldn't  charge  me  if  it  run  over  the 
hour,  ,so  1  went.  It  isn't  every  day 
that  one  gets  such  a  gondolier,  and  he 
was  so  very  polite,  "a  la  Florence." 
Venice  is  an  ideal  place  for  sketching. 
How  I  would  love  to  spend  six  mouths 
here,  it  is  simply  perfect.  Venice  must 
be  seen  to  be  appreciated.  I  can  not  tell 
you  about  it. 


MILAN 


LETTER  NO.  17. 

LUCERNE,  SUNDAY,  MAY  15,   1904 

E  AERIVED  here  this  morning,  but  I 
am  going  to  tell  you  about  Milan  first. 
We  left  Venice  at  8:20  yesterday  morn- 
ing, ran  into  a  "Kurfust"  party  at  the 
station  and  rode  all  the  way  to  Milan 
with  a  family  which  we  knew  wen.  The 
trip  was  without  incident  and  the  scen- 
ery was  fine  all  the  way.  Arriving  at 
Milan  we  took  the  'bus  to  our  hotel,  the 
Victoria  (centrally  located)  and,  al- 
though we  were  to  leave  that  night, 
hired  a  room  for  the  few  hours  at  25 
cents  each.  After  making  inquires,  we 
took  a  carriage  without  a  guide,  as  we 
had  made  up  our  minds  to  see  only  the 
Cathedral  and  Leonardo  de  Vinci 's 
famous  masterpiece. 

As  we  held  an  order  on  Cook  &  Son 
at  Milan  for  the  remainder  of  our  tick- 
ets, we  went  there  first  to  have  it  over 
with  and  to  enquire  for  mail.  They 
could  only  give  us  tickets  as  far  as 
Cologne  and  furnished  us  with  another 
order  on  their  office  there.  There  was 
no  mail,  and  now  we  can  scarcely 
hope  for  any  till  we  reach  London,  to 
which  point  I  have  ordered  it  all  for- 
warded. We  had  left  Cook's  and 
on  our  way  to  the  old  Monastery  of  St. 
Maria  della  Grazia  when  we  met  with 
our  first  accident.  Our  carriage  crashed 
into  a  street  car  which  w:>s  coining  to- 


14-Q Milan 

ward  us  at  a  pretty  good  speed.  The 
first  thing  I  knew  I  was  thrown  for- 
ward onto  the  front  seat,  Mrs.  Park 
the  same,  the  driver  fell  clear  to  the 
ground  rolling  over  and  over,  and  glass 
was  cracking  and  scattering  every- 
where. The  horse  was  frightened  and 
aa  some  men  ran  to  its  head  I  said  to 
Mrs.  Park:  "We  had  better  get  out;" 
so  we  did,  and  even  so  quickly  a  crowd 
had  gathered.  We  were  not  hurt,  but 
badly  shocked,  making  us  very  nervous 
for  the  rest  of  the  day.  When  they  saw 
that  no  one  was  seriously  hurt,  al- 
though the  driver  had  a  pretty  hard 
fall,  they  began  examining  the  carriage 
and  found  that  it  waa  unfit  for  use  un- 
til repairs  could  be  made,  so  we  had  to 
pay  our  man  and  hunt  another  carriage 
— a  double  expense  for  us — but  we  felt 
so  sorry  for  our  driver  and  were  so 
thankful  to  be  unhurt  that  we  left  the 
street  crowd,  that  had  gathered,  quite 
contented — two  lone  women  in  a 
strange  city  and  far  from  our  hotel. 
For  nearly  half  an  hour  we  hunted  a 
carriage  and  as  we  were  just  about  to 
despair,  our  time  was  so  limited,  we 
found  one,  drove  to  the  Monastery, 
paid  one  franc  each  admittance  and 
stepped  into  the  long  room  at  the  end 
of  which  is  the  large  fresco  of  Leonar- 
do deVinci's  "Last  Supper,"  one  of  the 
most  celebrated  pictures  in  the  world. 
It  is  very  beautiful,  but  so  very  badly 
damaged  that  some  of  the  figures  can 
scarcely  be  made  out.  It  is  the  only 
picture  of  importance  in  tie  room  and, 
just  think  of  it,  the  place  was  once 
used  as  a  stable  1  And  now  tourists 
come  from  the  ends  of  the  earth  to  see 
a  painting  which  for  so  long  a  time  was 
forgotten.  As  we  left  who  should  we 
meet  but  two  of  Clark's  parties,  I  mean 


Milan 14-1 

from  the  Kurfurst,  and  by  the  way  they 
all  have  "Cook's"  tickets  although 
they  are  called  "Clark's  Tours." 

We  visited  next  the  great  Milan  Ca- 
thedral, the  most  beautiful  church  I  was 
ever  in;  both  inside  and  out  it  is  grand. 
The  windows  are  so  rich  in  color  and  of 
such  beautiful  design.  The  great  col- 
umns inspire  one  with  awe,  and  while 
we  were  there  the  late  afternoon  sun 
streamed  in  throwing  a  beautiful  light 
over  all.  We  called  at  Cook's  again, 
dismissed  our  carriage,  and  after  secur- 
ing our  tickets  walked  back  to  our  ho- 
tel. After  supper  we  lay  down  until  10 
o'clock  and  in  half  an  hour  left  in  the 
'bus  for  the  station.  Once  in  our  com- 
partment we  piayeu  a  little  trick  on  our 
fellow  travelers  who  arrived  a  few  min- 
utes later.  We  turned  out  the  light  and 
fixed  ourselves  comfortably,  leaving  no 
space  except  at  our  feet  where  one  per- 
son could  sit  upright,  and  when  a  lit- 
tle later  one  traveler  after  another  pass- 
ed our  door  and  glanced  in  upon  two 
sleeping  women,  who  could  blame  them 
if  they  did  not  have  the  heart  to  dis- 
turb their  slumbers^  Later  on  in  the 
night,  however,  one  venturesome  man 
sat  quietly  at  my  feet,  otherwise  we  had 
the  compartment  to  ourselves,  which  we 
think  was  excusable  selfishness. 

About  12.30  midnight,  we  had  to  have 
our  baggage  all  examined  again,  and,  of 
course,  this  meant  that  it  was  all 
taken  from  the  train  into  a  room  in  the 
station,  and  it  was  difficult  last 
night  to  find  enough  porters  for 
all,  so  we  were  about  the  last  getting 
settled.  It  is  such  a  nervous  strain  on 
one,  especially  when  the  language  is  un- 
known, for  a  mistake  can  easily  be 
made.  But  last  night  I  met  my  ' '  Water- 
loo" in  the  shape  of  a  high  officer 


14-2 The  Alps 

told  me  that  I  must  register  my  large 
valise.  Money  would  not  work  that 
time,  as  it  had  twice  before,  so  I  had 
to  register  it  for  the  rest  cJ  the  trip 
and  when  I  claimed  it  this  morning  it 
cost  me  over  a  dollar.  Am  afraid  from 
now  on  that  I  will  have  to  register  it. 

I  slept  scarcely  any  last  night  and 
about  4  o  'clock,  as  it  grew  a  little  light, 
I  drew  the  curtain  and  looked  out  upon 
the  Alps!  I  felt  like  a  child  and  wanted 
to  scream  for  joy;  it  was  so  beautiful.  I 
soon  awakened  Mrs.  Park  and  from  that 
time  till  we  reached  Lucerne  we  gazed 
in  wonder  upon  the  beautiful  panorama. 
The  mountains  are  much  like  those  of 
the  White  Pass,  Alaska,  and  the  Rockies 
on  the  Canadian  Pacific  railroad,  but 
the  charm  here  is  in  the  contrast  with 
the  beautiful  little  villages  and  farms 
lying  all  along  the  foot  of  the  great 
snow-capped  mountains,  and  the  little 
houses  are  simply  ideal.  In  them  I  saw 
all  the  new  architecture  which  is  the 
rage  at  home.  And  the  lakes  reflecting 
tfie  mountains!  In  all  my  life  1  never 
saw  such  beauty!  How  I  wish  I  could 
describe  it  to  you.  1  regret  so  much 
that  we  cannot  take  the  time  to  go  to 
Interlaken  now  that  we  are  here. 

After  breakfast  this  morning,  we  un- 
dressed and  went  to  bed  ,and  how  good 
it  seemed.  This  is  such  a  quaint  little 
hotel.  On  top  of  each  bed  is  an  im- 
mense down  pillow  used  instead  of  a 
comforter,  and  I  tell  you  we  were  glad 
to  have  tiioiii  this  morning  for  it  was 
so  cold.  We  ate  our  breakfast  out  of 
doovs  on  an  open  veranda  in  the  sun- 
shine, and  such  butter  and  buns  and 
honey  I  never  tjvt»<l  in  all  i-iv  life.  We 
are  sitting  out  on  the  veranda  writing, 
and  it  ia  very  warm  now.  We  are  going 
for  a  walk  when  it  gets  a  little  cooler 
am!  may  run  across  an  English  church. 


LUCERNE 

LETTEK  NO.  18. 

MAINZ,  GERMANY,  MAY  17,  1904. 


MUST  tell  you  about  the  remainder  of 
our  Lucerne  experience.  Sunday  after- 
noon as  we  sta,rtecl  out  for  our  walk  we 
crossed  the  street  to  the  river  and  no- 
ticed great  crowds  rushing  about  ex 
citedly.  We  soon  saw  a  crowd  gathered 
on  the  end  of  the  bridge  just  opposite 
us  and  a  man  was  just  lowering  a 
grappling  hook  into  the  water.  He 
caught  something  in  it  and  as  he  drew 
it  up  we  saw  the  body  of  a  woman,  j.  ir 
full  ten  minutes  he  held  her.  down  in 
the  water,  then  they  brought  another 
hook  and  still  they  could  not  pull  her 
up.  Finally  a  man  waded  in  and  in  one 
minute  had  her  out.  Of  course,  she  was 
dead  then,  but  when  we  first  saw  her 
she  could  not  have  been  in  the  water 
more  than  three  minutes,  for  the  cur- 
rent is  very  swift  there  and  the  row 
boat  in  which  she  had  been  was  caught 
a  few  rods  up  stream  where  it  was  over- 
turned. We  heard  that  there  was  a  man 
arowned  too  but  did  not  know  the  par- 
ticulars till  a  little  while  neo.  when  we 
road  it  in  the  Paris  "N.  Y.  Herald." 
They  were  a  bride  and  groom,  just  mar- 
ried (three  weeks  ago),  on  their  wed- 
ding trip;  their  name  was  Carter,  of 
T>ods,  England.  Tt  made  such  an  im- 
pression on  us  that  we  had  to  constant- 
ly fight  it  from  our  minds,  especially  at 


Lucerne 


night,  and  we  were  so  sorry  that  we 
saw  it.  From  there  we  went  a  short 
distance  to  a  beautiful  forest  of  fir 
trees,  which  reminded  us  of  home,  and 
there,  in  the  stillness  where  we  heard 
only  the  singing  of  birds,  we  sat  down 
and  studied  our  Sunday  school  lesson. 
As  we  were  returning  to  our  hotel  jus't 
at  sunset  we  had  a  most  beautiful  view 
of  Lake  Lucerne  and  the  distant  houses. 
As  I  said  in  my  other  letter  we  con- 
cluded to  spend  another  day  there.  This 
did  not  give  us  time  enough  to  go  to 
Tnterlalcen  but  we  took  a  little  trip  on 
the  lake  Monday  (yesterday)  to  Flue- 
len,  a  very  beautiful  spot.  We  left 
Lucerne  at  8  in  the  morning,  spent  two 
hours  at  Fluelen,  where  we  wandered 
around  and  took  some  pictures;  took 
our  luncheon  in  a  pretty  little  garden, 
then  returned  on  the  boat  to  Lucerne, 
where  we  arrived  about  4  o'clock.  The 
scenery  all  the  way  reminded  us  so 
much  of  the  Columbia.  At  Fluelen  we 
met  the  two  Kurfurst  parties  on  their 
way  to  Lucerne  from  Milan;  we  shall 
not  probably  meet  them  again. 

On  returning  to  Lucerne  I  hunted  up 
Cook's  to  get  some  money  changed,  and 
came  back  over  a  quaint  little  old  cov- 
ered bridge  which  I  had  noticed,  and 
what  was  my  surprise  on  looking  up,  to 
see  two  old  oil  paintings  above  every 
beam.  I  inquired  about  them  and  found 
that  the  bridge  and  paintings  were  over 
600  years  old.  There  must  have  been 
over  100  paintings,  all  of  historical  sub- 
jects. After  resting  nearly  an  hour  I 
went  down  stairs  to  meet  two  young 
ladies  of  the  Kurfurst,  who  wanted  to 
go  with  us  on  a  street  car  trip  which 
we  were  told  was  fine.  I  waited  for  an 
hour  and  they  did  not  appear,  so  at 
6:25  I  started  out  alone,  as  Mrs.  Park 
was  too  tired  to  go.  I  knew  that  part 


The  Alps 


of  the  trip  was  a  lonely  walk  through 
the  forest  where  Mrs.  Park  and  I  were 
on  Sunday,  but  I  wasn  't  going  to  be  dis- 
appointed, so  took  the  street  car  at  the 
door  and  started.  I  rode  to  the  end  of 
the  line,  then  took  the  lift  (they  call 
it)  up  the  mountain.  I  could  scarcely 
keep  my  seat  as  I  went  up  (alone,  ex- 
cept for  the  motorman),  for  the  view 
which  was  before  me  cannot  be  de- 
scribed. On  and  on  we  went,  clear  to 
the  top  of  the  mountain,  and  when  the 
man  opened  the  door  to  let  me  out  he 
smiled,  as  much  as  to  say,  '  '  In  all  your 
life  have  you  ever  seen  anything  to 
equal  it  I"  I  answered  with  gestures, 
which  were  understood.  Really,  it  is 
impossible  for  me  to  tell  about  it.  The 
Alps  almost  encircled  me,  (fully  tv,-o- 
thirds  of  the  horizon  being  visible  irom 
where  I  stood),  and  nestled  at  their 
feet  were  beautiful  lakes,  and  on  the 
borders  of  these  I  counted  twelve  cities 
and  towns;  then  nearer  at  my  feet  were 
the  green  hillsides,  the  apple  trees  all 
in  blossom  and  the  birds  singing  so 
sweetly.  I  fear  that  it  was  too  late  for 
pictures,  as  the  sun  was  setting,  but 
nevertheless  I  used  more  than  a  dozen 
films.  "Rvery  now  and  then  I  find  myself 
dreaming  about  it,  seeing  it  all  over 
again.  I  stayed  as  long  as  1  dared, 
knowing  that  I  had  a  walk  before  we, 
and  a  very  long  one  it  proved  to  be.  I 
went  first  through  the  golf  links,  which 
are  beautiful;  I  believe  there  are  no 
finer  in  the  world  and  I  was  just  read- 
ing about  them  in  the  Paris  Herald 
this  evening.  Then  I  entered  the  forest 
and  for  fully  fifteen  minutes  I  walked 
and  ran  before  I  reached  the  "lift" 
which  took  me  to  the  street  again.  I  was 
not  frightened  as  I  remembered  that  I 
was  '  '  fleet  of  foot,  '  '  but  I  did  not  meet 
a  living  soul  and  heard  not  a  sound 


146 Main* 

save  the  birds.  J  reached  the  hotel 
at  10  minutes  of  8,  and  supper  was 
nearly  over,  but  I  told  the  landlady  that 
it  was  her  fault,  as  she  said  that  it  was 
a  10-minutes'  walk  and  T  walked  and 
ran  as  fast  as  I  could  for  nearly  half 
nn  hour. 

We  went  to  the  station  this  morning 
with  our  luggage  in  the  hotel  'bus,  and 
when  we  unloaded  found  the  fifth  piece 
of  our  luggage  missing  (Mrs.  Park's 
suit  case),  so  the  'bus  was  sent  back 
after  it  and  the  hotel  porter  brought  it 
to  the  train  just  before  we  started, 
which  was  ten  minutes  before  the  time 
pven  us  by  "Cook's";  that's  the  way 
things  are  done  in  this  country.  We 
had  our  luggage  all  removed  to  the  sta- 
tion at  Bale  and  examined  by  customs 
officials,  a  performance  which  so  far 
has  amounted  to  nothing,  as  not  once 
have  they  examined  the  contents.  Soon 
after  starting,  a  high  official  came 
through  the  car  and  collected  50  cents 
each  from  us  because  we  were  on  a 
special  train,  called  a  Train  de  Luxe. 
We  had  noticed  the  handsome  furnish- 
ings so  were  not  surprised  when  we 
were  asked  extra  fare,  as  Cook's  tick- 
ets gave  notice  in  their  rules.  It  was 
a  through  fast  train,  with  a  maid  for 
each  car,  and  we  had  a  whole  compart- 
ment to  ourselves  all  the  way,  for  which 
we  were  very  thankful,  as  it  was  very 
warm  and  we  just  made  ourselves  com- 
fortable and  took  naps.  Arrived  at  the 
station  here  at  Mainz,  our  porter 
took  our  luggage  off  in  one  direction 
and  motioned  us  to  go  away  off  in  an- 
other, which  we  reluctantly  aid,  and 
when  we  reached  the  front  of  the  im- 
mense building  where  our  path  led  us, 
our  porter  and  baggage  could  not  be 
found.  Leaving  Mrs.  Park  to  guard 
our  hand  baggage  1  started  out  in 


Mainz  147 

search  of  both,  but  could  find  ne!!1  t. 
I  then  appealed  to  an  English-speaking 
porter  and  he  said  that  the  man  had 
taken  it  to  our  hotel,  ami,  sure  enough, 
T  remembered  that  he  had  asked  the 
name  of  our  hotel  as  all  of  them  do,  but 
I  had  forgotten  that  we  were  in  a  coun- 
try where  the  railroad  norters  take  lug- 
gage to  the  hotels  from  the  station  in 
little  hand  carts;  hitherto  the  porters 
would  not  step  outside  the  station,  with 
one  exception.  We  found  our  luggage 
at  the  hotel,  but,  as  that  domicle  had 
lately  changed  hands,  the  manager 
would  not  accept  Cook's  coupons,  so  we 
called  a  carriage  and  went  bag  and  bag- 
rage  to  try  another  hotel.  We  landed 
at  this  one  (where  we  were  told  Cook's 
coupons  would  be  accepted),  but  they 
also  refused  them,  so  we  concluded  to 
take  a  room  and  breakfast  anyway,  and 
,we  found  them  very  kind,  indeed,  try- 
ing in  every  way  to  make  our  short  stay 
pleasant.  The  hotel  is  right  on  the 
bank  of  the  Rhine  and  this  evening  we 
took  a  little  walk  up  the  river  and  lis- 
tened for  a  while  to  a  fine  band  con- 
cert in  a  park  just  a  block  from  here. 


THE  RHINE 

LETTER  NO.  19. 

THE  HAGUE,  HOLLAND,  FRIDAY,  MAY  20,  1904 


HE  DAY  we  spent  on  the  Rhine,  which 
now  seems  so  long  ago,  proved  to  be  a 
very  pleasant  one  for  us,  as  we  were 
with  two  Kurfurst  young  ladies  and  to- 
gether we  read  the  legends  of  the  Rhine 
which  made  the  old  Castles  we  pnssed  so 
frequently  all  the  more  interesting.  The 
day  was  cloudy  and  very  cold,  a  disap- 
pointment to  many,  but  to  me  the 
clouds  were  a  great  relief.  I  think  the 
Rhine  is  very  interesting,  principally 
on  account  of  the  old  castles,  but  as 
far  as  natural  scenery  is  concerned  our 
own  Columbia  surpasses  it. 

When  we  reached  Cologne  we  went 
right  to  our  hotel,  only  a  short  distance, 
then  left  immediately  for  Cook's,  as 
we  held  another  order  for  tickets  on 
that  office.  We  had  just  left  there  when 
Mr.  Schlosser,  William  Brown's  cousin, 
came  hurrying  up  to  us,  asking  if  we 
were  the  Salem  ladies.  He  had  been  to 
our  hotel  and  they  had  sent  him  to 
Cook's  after  us.  We  made  use  of  an 
interpreter  at  the  office  and  Mr.  Schlos- 
ser very  kindly  asked  if  we  would  like 
to  go  for  a  drive.  Of  course,  we  were 
obliged  to  refuse,  as  our  stay  was  so 
short,  and  we  just  had  time  to  see  the 
Cathedral  before  supper.  He  went  with 
us  to  the  Cathedral,  only  a  block  dis- 
tant, and  purchased  tickets  for  us  so 


13O The  H»g\ie 

that  we  might  see  also  the  treasures  of 
the  Cathedral,  and  we  appreciated  his 
kindness  very  much.  When  we  found 
that  our  stay  in  Cologne  would  be  so 
short  we  wrote  Mr.  Schlosser  from  Lu- 
cerne, telling  him  not  to  trouble  to  meet 
us,  for  we  were  afraid  that  Mr.  Brown 
had  written  him  that  we  were  coming. 
The  "Dom"  (cathedral),  as  it  is  called 
in  Cologne,  is  very  grand  indeed  and 
needs  to  be  described  by  one  who  has 
made  a  study  of  fine  architecture,  so  I 
will  not  attempt  it.  The  two  great 
spires  can  be  seen  for  miles  on  the 
Ehine,  towering  above  everything;  but 
what  a  pity  that  such  an  edifice  must 
be  encroached  upon  by  other  buildings. 

The  next  morning  at  Cologne  we  had 
a  few  minutes  for  shopping,  then  left 
for  Holland,  and  after  we  had  passed 
the  first  windmill,  I  began  to  feel  at 
home.  Dear  old  Holland,  I  love  it  as 
much  as  ever. 

We  came  right  through  to  The  Hague, 
wi'iting  ahead  for  our  mail  to  be  sent 
there,  care  of  Cook's,  but  imagine  our 
surprise  when  we  found  that  they  had 
no  office  here  nor  at  Haarlem,  so  we 
are  going  to  write  the  postmaster  at 
the  latter  place  to  forward  our  mail  to 
London.  As  soon  as  I  opened  the  dour 
of  this  hotel,  where  I  spent  two  weeks, 
four  years  ago,  Mrs.  Zuur,  the  owner, 
greeted  me  by  name  and  in  a  few  min- 
utes handed  me  a  letter  saying  that  it 
had  been  there  a  week.  It  proved  to  be 
Harry's  wedding  invitation  and  a  note 
from  Joe,  the  first  news  since  Rome; 
but  the  taste  only  made  us  want  more 
and  we  have  been  homesick  ever  since. 
Yesterday  we  reached  here  about  4 
o'clock,  so  we  went  to  the  shops  before 
supper,  bought  a  few  souvenirs  and 
concluded  that  Holland  had  better 
things  for  tourists  than  any  place  we 


ScKeveningen  131 

had  visited.  But  I  was  saving  my 
money  for  the  great  market  of  Friday 
(today),  as  I  had  planned  our  trip  to 
be  here  on  that  day  and,  of  course,  I 
had  great  visions  of  brass  and  copper. 
The  first  thing  this  morning  we  took 
the  street  car  for  Scheveningen  and  by 
much  coaxing  I  persuaded  Mrs.  Park 
to  climb  the  stairs  and  sit  on  top,  so 
we  had  a  fine  view  all  the  way  out.  We 
were  on  the  beach  nearly  two  hours,  and 
it  was  so  interesting  to  watch  the  fish- 
ermen launch  their  boats.  One  young 
Dutch  boy  followed  me  around  half  an 
hour  asking  me  if  I  was  going  to  take 
a  picture  of  "me  f adder's  skip."  We 
almost  came  to  blows,  and  he  tried  to 
make  me  give  him  something,  just  be- 
cause, as  lie  expressed  it,  I  had  ' '  lots 
of  money. ' '  I  took  hold  of  his  arm, 
not  very  lightly,  showed  him  my  Ameri- 
can flag  and  threatened  "policee,"  af- 
ter that  he  was  more  respectful.  Far- 
ther down  the  beach  I  was  leveling 
my  camera  at  a  boat,  when  a  handful 
of  wet  sand  came  from  some  place 
straight  into  my  shutter,  of  course, 
plmost  rriv ;•.;«•  it.  It  took  me  half  an 
hour  to  take  it  all  apart  and  clean  it, 
and  you  may  believe  I  hau  an  audience. 
The  old  Dutchmen  were  sympathetic 
and  scolded  the  boys,  and  bye  and  bye, 
when  Mrs.  Park  came,  it  was  just  too 
funny  to  hear  her  tell  the  bystanders  in 
such  a  quiet,  sympathetic,  hurt  tone  of 
voice,  the  injury  done  the  camera,  all  of 
which  was  in  English  and  not  a  word 
did  they  understand;  then  the  old 
Dutchmen  talked  back  at  her  in  their 
language,  so  sympathetically. 

When  we  reached  the  hotel  we 
found  the  two  young  ladies  who 
had  taken  the  Ehine  trip  with  us, 
here.  T  had  given  them  the  name  of 
the  hotel,  so  after  dinner  we  all  went  to 


152 TKe  Hague 

the  great  market  together.  There  was 
only  one  brass  and  copper  booth,  as  it 
was  a  Jewish  holiday,  so  I  aid  not  have 
much  choice;  however,  I  bought  a  few 
things.  As  I  told  Mrs.  Park  before  we 
reached  here,  "we  are  likely  to  run 
into  a  holiday  at  any  time  in  Holland," 
and  the  Jews  are  the  very  people  who 
have  the  brass  shops  in  town  and  they 
were  all  closed  today,  and  tomorrow  is 
their  Sabbath.  Just  this  evening  though, 
I  found  two  shops  not  far  from  the 
hotel,  and  one  at  least  will  be  open  to- 
morrow. It  is  just  filled  with  fine  old 
brass,  so  if  I  charter  a  freight  car  to 
bring  my  purchases  home  do  not  won- 
der. It  is  very  late  and  T  will  have  to 
continue  Holland  in  my  next.  The 
queen  has  just  left  The  Hague  so  we 
will  get  to  see  her  palace  tomorrow. 


PARIS 

LETTER  NO.  20. 

PARIS,  MAY  22,  1904 


E  ABE  here  in  gay  Pans  and  consider 
ourselves  fortunate  in  having  a  roof 
over  our  heads.  We  arrived  at  11  last 
night,  took  a  carriage  and  drove  to  the 
first  hotel  on  our  list  ,as  usual.  They 
were  "full  up,"  as  they  say,  and  coulu 
not  take  us  in,  so  we  drove  on  to  the  « 
next  one;  they,  too,  were  compelled  to 
refuse  us  and  by  that  time  we  began  to 
feel  homeless  indeed,  but  we  ordered 
our  good-natured  coachman  to  make  an- 
other trial,  and  we  brought  up  here 
(Hotel  de  Londres  et  de  Milan),  tak- 
ing the  very  last  room  they  had,  the 
family  bedroom.  We  decided  last  night 
that  we  would  move  today,  but  changed 
our  minds  this  morning  when  we  found 
that  we  were  in  such  a  central  location 
—  very  near  Cook's  office  and  between 
the  Avenue  de  1 'Opera  and  Jardin  des 
Tuileries— and  then  our  bed  was  so 
comfortable,  with  its  soft  pillows,  down 
comforter,  and  linen  sheets  trimmed 
with  broad  bands  of  lace  insertion,  but 
we  hope  that  we  have  not  robbed  the 
family.  You  know  the  French  people 
do  not  believe  in  outdoor  air.  but  we 
insisted  that  we  must  have  some  in 
our  room,  so  the  servant  worked  away 
nt  the  windows  but  could  not  open 
them  until  he  had  brought  a  step  ladder, 
and  even  then  I  dreamed  tluit  I  was 


15-4- Paris 

smothering  in  the  night,  and  drew  the 
curtain  at  the  side  of  our  bed  clear 
back  before  I  awakened.  I  trust  that 
T  will  reach  home  before  I  take  to  walk- 
ing in  my  sleep.  We  inquired  this  morn- 
ing and  found  that  Cook 's  office  was 
open  for  a  few  hours,  so  we  went  di- 
rectly there  for  mail,  but  again  we  were 
doomed  to  disappointment,  for  it  was 
open  only  for  a  good  scrubbing,  and  we 
could  not  get  waited  upon,  but  we 
learned  that  tomorrow  was  a  holiday 
and  the  office  would  only  be  open  from 
9  till  11  and,  of  course,  all  the  stores 
will  be  closed  too.  We  had  planned  to 
do  a  little  shopping  besides  sightseeing 
tomorrow,  but  now  I'm  a>-mid  we  can 
do  neither  to  any  extent.  I  trust  that 
the  photographic  salon  will  be  open  to- 
morrow, then  we  will'  have  all  of  Tues- 
day for  the  Louvre.  I  want  Mrs.  Pans 
to  see  Napoleon's  Tomb,  Eiffel  Tower, 
Manufactory  of  the  Gobelins  (tapestry), 
a  cemetery,  and  other  things  which  may 
be  seen  in  driving  about  the  city,  but 
we  will  not  have  time  to  go  to  Versail- 
les and  Mrs.  Park  says  she  is  tired  of 
palaces,  anyway.  We  walked  from 
Cook's  down  the  Avenue  de  1 'Opera, 
across  the  Louvre  court,  then  down  the 
river  to  the  Notre  Dame  and  you  may 
believe  we  were  tired.  We  heard  the 
last  15  minutes  of  the  service,  which 
v»'as  just  what  we  wanted,  as  it  was 
principally  music.  We  had  a  good  seat 
and  sat  still  till  most  of  the  people  had 
gone,  and  just  at  the  end  o^  the  service, 
while  the  congregation  was  dispersing, 
the  choir  sang  and  a  youiig  boy  with  a 
most  beautiful  voice  took  the  solo.  I 
enjoyed  that  more  than  anything.  The 
organ,  too,  was  fine;  it  thundered  at 
both  ends  of  the  church.  We  took  a 
(jarriage  back  to  our  hotel  as  we  did  not 
understand  the  street  cars  and  boats, 


Holland  \SS 

and  besides  we  were  actually  too  tired 
to  walk  over  to  the  bridge.  We  have 
just  had  our  luncheon  and  when  we  fin- 
ish our  letters  we  are  going  to  rest  the 
remainder  of  the  afternoon.  We  want 
to  go  home  ' '  most  awfully, ' '  but  we  are 
still  level  headed  enough  to  know  that 
we  can't. 

Now,  I  will  tell  you  about  the  rest 
of  our  experiences  in  Holland.  We  four 
(the  two  young  ladies  and  ourselves) 
had  an  early  breakfast  yesterday  morn- 
ing and  while  the  three  were  getting 
their  wraps  on  I  went  to  a  brass  store 
(the  one  I  had  found  the  evening  be- 
fore), made  a  good  bargain  and  trium- 
phantly returned  with  two  large  pieces 
of  old  brass— a  fern  pot  or  something 
of  the  kind  on  legs,  with  three  handles 
at  the  sides,  and  a  bellows;  the  latter 
article  you  must  acknowledge  is  not  a 
foolish  purchase,  for  one  of  your  favor- 
ite maxims  is  "Time  is  money"  and 
our  fireplace  has  had  more  time  than 
money  spent  on  it.  Speaking  of  old 
things  reminds  me  of  the  furniture  at 
the  Marichal  de  Turenne  where  we 
stayed.  Such  beautiful  old  mahogany 
pieces!  The  table  in  our  room  was  BO 
fine  that  I  spoke  of  it  to  the  niadamo 
arid  she  laughed  and  said  that  BO  many 
quests  had  spoken  of  that  taJale,  and 
then  the  old  brass-pan  candlesticks  in 
every  room!  Madame  had  us  write  in 
her  album;  she  is  such  a  motherly  soul. 
She  wished  to  be  remembered  to  Papa 
aud  Joe,  also  Otto  Wilson.  The  Queen's 
Palace  was  open  yesterday  to  visitors 
for  the  first  time  this  season,  so  we 
bought  our  tickets  of  entrance  and  were 
the  first  persons  in  the  palace  since  the 
Koyal  party  left.  An  oflicial  took  us 
all  through  the  public  and  private 
rooms,  which,  of  course,  were  very  beau- 
tiful and  filled  with  presents  from 


136 To  Paris 

kings,  queens  and  popes.  The  paintings 
were  interesting  also.  Just  as  we  four 
left,  a  large  party  arrived,  and  we  con- 
gratulated ourselves  on  being  early.  As 
we  left  the  palace  it  began  to  rain,  so 
we  reluctantly  countermanded  our  order 
for  a  carriage  to  go  into  the  country, 
and  after  visiting  the  Eoyal  Gallery  in 
another  part  of  the  city  we  returned  to 
our  hotel.  The  Hague  gallery  has  some 
fair"M)s  paintings — among  them  "The 
Anatomy  Lesson,  "  by  Rembrandt,  a 
Madonna  by  Murillo,  "Paul  Potter's 
Bull"  and  many  fine  things  by  Bem- 
orandt.  Directly  after  luncheon  we 
drove  to  the  station  and  left  for  Paris, 
and  from  Brussels  on  we  four  had  a 
compartment  to  ourselves.  Mrs.  Park 
will  always  have  cause  to  remember 
that  trip,  especially  the  borderland  of 
each  country  we  entered.  At  The 
Hague  she  had  purchased  some  innocent 
looking  ware,  quite  a  large  piece  of  it, 
in  fact  a  "vazz"  (it  was  handsome 
looking  enough  to  be  dignified  by  that 
name  instead  of  the  common  word 
vase).  Well,  she  could  not  pack  it  with- 
out buying  another  valise  and,  as  she 
had  already  bought  two  on  this  side  of 
the  water,  she  concluded  that  she  would 
have  it  nicely  packed  in  a  box  and 
carry  it  in  her  hand.  She  bought  a 
shawl  strap  at  60  cents  to  put  around 
it  and  clung  to  it  through  thick  and 
thin  till  we  reached  the  border  of 
Belgium.  There  a  customs  officer  pas- 
sing through  the  train  caught  sight  of 
th*>  new  package  and  strap  and  asked 
whose  it  was  and  what  was  in  it.  Mrs. 
Park  answered  a  "vazz, "  and  then  she 
was  "finished"  (as  they  say  from 
Palestine  to  Paris).  She  was  ordered 
out  of  the  car  with  it,  while  I  stayed  in 
to  hold  the  train,  and  after  15  minutes 
she  returned  still  smilinsr.  but  with  the 


Customs  137 

following  story:     She  had  hunted  up  six 
custom   house   men   hoping  to   find   one 
who    could    speak   English    so   that   she 
could  explain   the  contents  of  the  box, 
but   failing   in   this   she   had   paid   two 
francs   duty   and   came   back   with   the 
box  still  unopened.     We  all   concluded 
that  such  a  thing     must     not     happen 
again,  so  we  put  our  heads  together  and 
with   Mrs.   Park's   enthusiastic   consent 
evolved   a   plan   whereby  we   could   de 
ceive  those  most  dreaded  officials  at  our 
next   encounter.     We  took  our  steamer 
robe  and  wrapped  it  all  around  the  box 
into  a  different  shaped  bundle,  then  put 
the  shawl  strap  around  it,  lifted  it  into 
the  rack  over  our  heads  and  threw  over 
one  end  of  it  our  shawls  and  capes.    We 
thought  it  was  secure,  so  you   can  im- 
apine  our  dismay  at  the  borderland  of 
France,  when   not   only   one   officer  but 
three,    came    to    our    compartment    and 
searched  everything    till     their     hands 
struck  that  box.    Of  course,  it  had  been 
reported    and    it   must   be   opened.       I 
shall  never  forget  Mrs.  Park's  appeal- 
ing looks  and  tone  as  she  stood  there 
and  said  "Isn't  there  one  of  you  men 
who  can  speak  English?    Why  it's  only 
an      inexpensive     'vase'      (notice     the 
change)   and  I  don't  want  it  opened." 
But  the  man  who  had  his  hands  on  the 
box  drew  forth  a  dagger  (not  an  ordin- 
ary pocket  knife  by  any  means,  at  least 
it  seemed  so  to  us)  and  heartlessly  cut 
the  string     of     that  package  in  three 
places  while  the  other  officers  stood  by 
with  sober  faces,     and     our     traveling 
companions  from     the     other     compart- 
ments filled  the  hall  way  and  looked  on 
with  more  than  common  interest.     The 
lid   of   the  box   was  nailed   down,   but 
with  the  same  fearful  intrument  it  was 
pried   off,  and  with     hand:*     trembling 
with  excitement  the  head  officer  lifted 


158 


Customs 


the  packing.  Only  one  glance  he  gave, 
accompanied  with  the  most  disgusted 
' '  Ugh ! ' '  you  can  imagine ;  then  out  he 
walked  amidst  the  smiles  of  everybody, 
and  the  box  gave  us  no  more  trouble. 
Of  course,  you  can  understand  that  thev 
thought  it  was  some  very  valuable 
ware,  and  Mrs.  Park's  innocence  only 
made  them  more  suspicious. 

We  expect  to  leave  here  Tuesday 
night  by  Dieppe  and  we  will  then 
reach  London  Wednesday  morning  and 
start  that  day  for  Scotland. 


BRADFORD 


LETTER  NO.  21. 

MIDLAND  HOTEL,  BRADFORD,  ENGLAND,  WEDNES- 
DAY, MAY  26,  8:.?0  P.  M. 


E  are  spending  the  night  hero  :it  !'.r-ul- 
ford  where  we  arrived  at  4:30  this  after- 
noon. I  came  to  see  the  Photographic 
Exhibition,  as  it  was  an  important  one, 
and  we  did  not  lose  any  time,  for  we 
had  to  leave  London  too  late  for  the 
Melrose  Abbey  train  of  today.  This 
citv  is  only  about  half  an  hour  from 
Leeds,  where  we  left  the  main  track 
and  we  will  return  there  in  the  morning 
nnd  take  up  our  journey  into  Scotland 
and  Ireland.  We  will  reach  Melrose 
early  tomorrow  afternoon  and  leave 
there  at  6  for  Edinburgh,  then  take  that 
beautiful  trip  by  coach  and  train 
reaching  Glasgow  at  4  o'clock  Fridav. 
From  there  we  were  undecided  whether 
to  take  Ireland  or  not  as  it  meant  a 
dav  off  of  London  sight  seeing,  but  we 
both  wanted  to  see  Ireland,  so  wo  de- 
cide'd  to  cross  over  to  Belfast  on  Fri- 
dav night  by  boat,  then  go  by  train  to 
Dublin  Saturday  where  we  will  spend 
the  Sabbath  and  reach  London  on  Mon- 
day afternoon.  You  can  imagine  thnt 
this  took  quite  a  little  planning  and  all 
in  an  hour's  time  after  we  reached 
London  this  morning,  for  we  had  to 
leave  there  at  11:30  in  order  to  do  it, 


160 Paris 

and  they  told  us  at  Paris  that  it  would 
be  impossible,  but  when  two  women 
make  up  their  minds  to  do  a  thing 
even  the  time  tables  are  turned  and  we 
had  such  an  obliging  clerk  at  Cook's  to 
help  us  out;  however,  when  he  had  fin- 
ished with  us  he  was  trembling  so  that 
he  could  scarcely  write.  The  American 
"rush"  was  too  much  for  Rm. 

All  this  time  we  were  standing  with 
our  mail  unopened  in  our  hands,  for 
Mrs.  Park  had  gotten  the  mail  while  I 
started  in  on  the  tickets  and  I  began  by 
telling  the  man  that  we  had  to  catch 
that  11:30  train  and  from  that  moment 
his  natural  breathing  stopped.  I  really 
felt  sorry  for  him  but  in  the  end  we 
thanked  him  profusely  and  Mrs.  Park 
said  some  nice  words  to  him  which 
acted  as  a  restorative. 

We  did  not  see  the  scenery  for  the 
first  20  miles  of  our  journey  for  we 
were  buried  in  those  letters  and  I  read 
all  of  Mrs.  Park's  and  she  read  all  of 
mine;  we  had  a  regular  feast. 

Let's  see,  the  last  letter  I  wrote  you 
was  at  Paris,  Sunday  afternoon.  Well 
we  did  nothing  more  that  day  but  rest, 
then  Monday  morning  Mrs.  Park  took 
the  Cook's  drive  with  our  two  friends 
and  as  she  was  in  such  good  company 
I  concluded  that  I  could  leave  her 
and  go  elsewhere.  I  had  taken  the  same 
drive  four  years  ago  with  papa.  T 
first  hunted  up  the  "Photo  Club  de 
Paris"  and  there  learned  that  the  Pho- 
tographic Salon  was  being  held  in  the 
Petit  Palais.  When  I  reached  there 
both  the  Petit  and  Grand  Palaces  were 
gay  with  streamers  and  posters  with 
the  word  "Salon"  in  large  letters,  so  I 
took  the  Grand  Palace  first  and  what 
wa&  my  surprise  and  delight  to  learn 
that  the  great  yearly  Salon  (of  paint- 


Louvre  161 

ings)  was  on— had  been  open  a  few 
days  only.  Well  I  was  there  from  10 
till  2  o'clock  and  had  a  thoroughly 
good  time  and  even  then  there  was  one 
full  department  I  did  not  see  and  I 
simply  walked  through  the  great  cov- 
ered court  where  all  the  beautiful 
marbles  were.  After  taking  luncheon 
in  the  building  where  I  sat  watching 
the  streams  of  people,  (it  was  a  fete 
day)  I  crossed  over  to  the  Petit  Palace, 
to  the  Photographic  Salon  and  there  I 
stayed  until  it  closed  at  6  o'clock.  As 
I  paid  my  franc  and  entered  I  picked 
up  one  of  the  catalogues  which  were  for 
sale  near  the  door  and  in  my  best 
French  asked  the  girl  if  the  American 
work  was  listed  in  it,  she  answered  yes, 
so  I  bought  one  and  started  in.  .You 
can  imagine  my  surprise  when  I  found 
that  two  of  my  pictures  were  hung  and 
catalogued.  I  did  not  recognize  them 
by  their  French  names  at  first  but  soon 
puzzled  out  "Still  Life"  and  the  other 
one,  "The  Edge  of  the  Cliff,"  the  girl 
found  for  me. 

I  think  Mr.  STieglitz  did  not  tell  me, 
just  for  a  surprise.  The  American  work 
was  splendid,  ahead  of  everything,  as 
usual,  and  it  was  the  first  real  Pho- 
tographic Salon  I  had  ever  had  the 
pleasure  of  visiting.  The  American 
work  I  saw  today  I  thought  was  even 
better. 

Tuesday  morning  we  four  went  to 
the  Louvre  where  we  hired  a  guide 
just  to  show  us  the  masterpieces  of 
sculpture  and  painting.  They  were  the 
same  that  I  saw  four  years  ago,  of 
course,  but  they  grow  more  beautiful  to 
me  every  time  I  study  them,  especially 
the  famous  Venus  de  Milo  and  tin- 
Winged  Victory.  The  galleries  are  al- 
ways full  of  students  copying  and  it 


162 The  Channel 

was  very  noticeable  that  the  Paris 
copies  were  not  so  good  as  those  at 
Florence.  Monday  night,  Miss  Loomis 
of  Pasadena,  California,  (one  of  the 
two  young  ladies  I  mentioned)  and  I 
went  to  the  Grand  Opera.  It  was  the 
initial  performance  of  "The  Son  of  a 
Star"  and  the  place  was  Jerusalem,  in 
Hadrian 's  time  as  nearly  as  we  could 
make  out  the  French,  and  when  the 
stage  was  filled  with  Arabs,  Jews,  and 
even  donkey  boys,  we  could  easily  imag- 
ine  that  we  were  back  in  Jerusalem. 
The  singing,  of  course,  was  fine  and  the 
colors  beautiful.  We  decided  to  go  in 
five  minutes;  went  in  our  traveling 
clothes.  Onr  hotel  was  only  about  four 
blocks  from  the  opera  house  and  we 
reached  home  after  12.  I  had  not  had 
my  hat  off  since  breakfast  that  morn- 
ing. Yesterday  afternoon  we  went 
shopping,  or  rather  tried  to,  but  we 
were  so  tired  and  there  were  such 
crowds  that  we  did  not  buy  anything 
but  came  home  and  packed  and  left 
right  after  supper  for  London.  That 
Dieppe  trip  is  always  such  a  hard  one 
and  the  boat  was  crowded  last  night, 
but  I  ran  ahead  and  secured  two  good 
berths  so  we  had  a  little  rest.  It  is 
really  a  funny  sight  to  see  so  many 
women  sleeping  on  shelves  one  above 
another  almost  up  to  the  ceiling. 
Mrs.  Park  gave  me  most  heartfelt 
thanks  for  selecting  a  lower  berth  for 
her.  We  had  an  exceedingly  smooth 
voyage  and  only  a  few  were  sick.  One 
"cranky"  woman  had  the  maid  get  ev- 
erything ready  for  her  as  she  was  sure 
she  would  be  dead  before  morning  and 
she  went  to  sleep  before  the  boat  start- 
ed, fairly  groaning,  but  we  heard  no 
more  of  her  and  you  may  be  sure  the 
maid  rlid  not  waken  her  till  we  had 


The  Channel 


safely  reached  shore.  One  of  our  young 
lady  friends,  Miss  Arbuckle  of  New 
York,  sailed  from  Cherbourg  today. 
Miss  Loomis,  the  other  one,  will  remain 
on  the  continent  a  month  longer.  We 
were  sorry  to  part  with  them. 

Thursday,  May  26.  —  We  are  now 
spinning  along  on  our  way  to  Edin- 
burgh and  I  will  mail  this  letter  when 
we  reach  the  main  line  near  Leeds. 
Leeds  seems  to  be  a  very  great  manu- 
facturing place  —  nothing  but  smoke- 
stacks and  smoke.  London  as  usual  was 
foggy  and  smoky  when  we  were  there, 
but  England  in  the  country  is  as  beau- 
tiful as  ever  —  so  pretty  and  home-like, 
The  hawthorn  hedges  are  all  in  blossom 
hut  it  is  too  early  yet  for  the  red  pop- 
piea. 


GLASGOW 


LETTER  NO.  22. 


HOTEL  BALMORAL,  GLASGOW,  FRIDAY  EVENING, 
MAY  27 


an 


E  arrived  here  at  4:30,  took 
hour's  drive  about  the  eitv 
had  our  supper  and  are  now  mak- 
inr'  ourselves  at  homo  in  tho  nlvn«;- 
ant  little  drawing  room  of  thf>  hotel 
until  10  o'clock,  when  we  leave  bv  train 
and  then  take  the  steamer  about  an 
hour  later  for  Belfast.  Ireland,  where 
we  arrive  very  early  in  the  morning; 
™.'o  will  not  have  to  l^ave  the  steam- 
er until  we  take  the  trnin  fr>r  Dublin 
about  8  o'clock  so  we  will  have  nn  un- 
broken rest.  There  is  one  thinor  verv 
remarkable  about  this  hotel:  it  has 
reallv  good  paintings  and  pictures  on 
its  walls.  T  think  the  proprietor  must 
be  a  retired  art  collector.  Our  tea  was 
doublv  pnjoved  because  a  fine  marine 
view  hun<?  opposite  us  on  the  wall.  When 
out  driving'  we  saw  the  municipal  build 
irises,  the  srrounds  where  the  great  Ex- 
position was  held  years  ago  and  th" 
fine  college  so  splendidly  situated.  T?ut 
"Edinburgh,  where  we  stopped  over  last 
night,  is  certainly  the  most  beautiful 
city  we  have  yet  entered  and  we  saw 
so  little  of  it,  just  a  drive  to  and  from 
the  hotel.  Sir  Walter  Scott's  monu- 
ment there,  is  really  fine,  and  what  is 
so  uncommon  it  has  the  right  setting 


166  BanKs  and  Braes 

with  plenty  of  space  around  it. 

Before  we  reached  Edinburg  we  stop- 
ped off  at  Melrose  and  were  out  at  the 
Abbey  nearly  three  hours.  What  a 
fine  old  ruin  it  is!  No  wonder  that  Sir 
Walter  Scott  was  inspired  by  it!  We 
saw  his  favorite  seat,  a  heap  of  stones 
in  the  middle  of  the  Abbey.  It  began 
to  rain  while  we  were  there,  so  we 
spent  the  last  hour  just  outside  the  Ab- 
bey gate  in  the  custodian's  little  shop, 
where  we  bought  some  Scotch  souven- 
irs. I  found  there  a  beautiful  book  of 
old  Scotch  songs  with  the  music,  some- 
thing that  I  have  long  wanted,  BO  I 
bought  it;  it  is  bound  in  silk  "Gor- 
don" plaid.  The  book  has  only  been 
out  a  short  time.  The  nice  olcl  lady 
there  gave  us  some  purple  heather  in 
blossom  and  was  so  kind  to  us  in  many 
ways;  in  fact,  we  find  that  all  the 
Scotch  people  have  great  kind  hearts 
and  we  are  both  proud  of  our  Scottish 
ancestors.  The  whole  country  looks  so 
thrifty;  nothing  is  rundown.  The  Scotch 
broom  is  in  blossom;  we  see  it  every- 
where—  such  a  pretty  note  of  color.  But 
we  did  not  really  see  Scotland  till  we 
reached  Aberfoyle  at  about  11  o'clock 
this  morning,  the  most  beautiful  spring 
morning  you  can  imagine  I  There  we 
took  a  coach,  mounted  to  the  high  seats 
by  a  ladder  (safely  and  gracefully  ac- 
enmplished  by  Mrs.  Park)  and  settled 
ourselves  for  a  drive  of  eight  miles 
over  the  Scotland  hills  covered  with 
"heather,"  past  the  "banks"  and 
"braes,"  with  the  "craigs"  on  either 
side,  and  later  following  the  little 
"burn,"  on  the  banks  of  which  the 
black-thorn  grew.  The  ' '  bracken ' '  was 
just  springing  up  all  over  the  hillsides 
and  the  "bla'  berry"  bushes  were 
Such  a  beautiful  green.  The  mountains 


LocK    tVatrine  lt>7 

were  blue,  with  soft  lights  and  shadows, 
and  the  birds  (the  Plover  among  them) 
were  singing,  oh  so  sweetly.  It  was  all 
so  peaceful  and  beautiful  that  we  were 
very  happy  in  the  enjoyment  of  it,  but 
wished  so  much  that  those  we  loved 
could  be  with  us  and  enjoy  it  also.  We 
had  the  whole  eoach  (seating  twenty 
persons)  and  the  driver,  to  ourselves 
and  you  may  be  sure  we  asked  that 
good-natured  Scotchman  questions  just 
as  fast  as  we  could  think  of  them.  In 
answer  to  my  question  if  it  had  rained 
there  the  day  before  he  answered  yes, 
that  there  had  been  quite  a  ' '  thunder 
plump; ' '  this  has  been  a  favorite  quota- 
tion between  us  ever  since  and  it  is  so 
expressive  that  we  are  thinking  of  in- 
troducing it  in  Oregon  as  the  latest 
slang.  Another  word  which  amused  us 
very  much  a  gentleman  used  in  the 
following  sentence:  "Just  over  there  is 
a  bonnie  place  where  the  people  go  in 
the  early  spring  when  they  have  spring- 
lets,"  meaning,  as  we  say,  "spring  fe- 
ver." At  the  end  of  that  beautiful 
drive,  enjoyed  to  the  fullest  extent  and 
without  a  particle  of  dust,  we  dis- 
mounted on  the  bank  of  the  beautiful 
"Loch  Katrine"  made  so  famous  by 
Sir  Walter  Scott's  "Lady  of  the 
Lake"  and  took  the  steamer  (named 
for  that  great  poet).  The  ride  was  de- 
lightful and  we  remained  up  on  deck 
all  the  way  across.  We  passed  the  beau- 
tiful "Ellen's  Isle"  and  many  other 
places  made  famous  by  Scott.  At  the 
other  end  of  the  lake  we  took  another 
conch,  still  larger  than  the  first  one, 
with  four  horses.  The  driver  and  his 
guard  (a  young  boy)  were  dressed  in 
red  coats  and  the  coach  was  painted 
the  same  color.  This  was  a  beautiful 
drive  also,  very  near  the  high  moun- 


16)8  Ireland 

tains,  some  of  them  snow  capped;  but 
the  first  drive,  I  think,  showed  us 
more  of  the  typical  Scotch  scenery  for 
we  saw  so  much  heather  and  on  the  last 
drive  we  saw  very  little  of  it.  The 
heather  was  just  beginning  to  blos- 
som. How  I  should  love  to  see  the  hills 
all  purple  with  it;  it  is  a  little  early  yet 
for  that.  We  saw  a  great  many  sheep; 
they  live  all  winter  on  the  heather.  At 
the  end  of  our  second  drive  on  the  bor- 
der of  Loch  Lomond  we  took  dinner  at 
a  hotel  there,  and  such  appetites!  There 
are  some  beautiful  falls  just  at  the  side 
of  the  hotel  and  as  we  had  a  little  time 
to  spare  we  went  on  the  rocks  below 
them  and  then  climbed  up  to  the  bridge 
which  was  above  them.  Our  second 
boat  ride  began  at  this  place— have  for- 
gotten the  name  of  it — where  we  cross- 
ed the  beautiful  Loch  Lomond.  We 
could  not  stay  on  deck  this  time  for  we 
were  going  against  the  wind  but  enjoy- 
ed it  from  the  cabin.  At  the  end  of  the 
lake  we  took  the  train  for  Glasgow  and 
we  felt  that  we  had  seen  quite  a  bit  of 
Scotland.  Cook's  man  in  the  office  at 
London  told  us  to  take  this  trip  and  we 
feel  very  grateful  to  him  for  suggest- 
ing it. 

I  have  been  writing  the  latter  part  of 
this  in  our  room  iu  the  hotel  at  Bray, 
Ireland,  a  quiet  little  town  where  we 
came  yesterday  in  order  to  spend  the 
Sabbath  here.  It  is  right  on  the  coast, 
just  a  half  hour  from  Dublin.  The  sea 
was  very  smooth  the  night  we  crossed 
an(J  we  slept  all  the  way.  Just  after 
breakfast  on  the  boat  we  took  the  train 
for  Dublin  and  reached  there  at  10:30 
that  morning.  It  looks  just  like  any 
other  large  city,  the  people  too,  and  we 
only  saw  a  few  "Pats"  and  "Bridg- 
ets." We  came  down  here  to  Bray 


Ireland  169 

hoping  to  see  more  of  real  Irish  life  but 
we  were  disappointed  again  and  so  we 
are  beginning  to  think  that  Ireland  is 
only  a  myth  and  that  we  are  still  in 
England.  The  country,  though,  is  very 
beautiful  with  the  little  white  cottages 
and  green  hedges  and  just  now  the 
"furze"  hedges  are  in  blossom— a  very 
bright  yellow. 

As  we  left  Belfast  we  saw  a  strange 
sight,  acres  and  acres  of  linen  bleaching 
on  the  grass;  it  looked  just  like  fields 
of  snow  except  that  it  was  all  in  long- 
shaped  patches. 

The  vehicles  here  in  Ireland  look  so 
strange  to  us.  Of  course,  the  cabs  are 
like  any  other  carriages,  but  the  Irish 
jaunting  car  is  the  most  common  of 
till;  it  is  on  two  wheels  with  seats  at 
the  sides,  no  cover  and  nothing  in  front 
of  the  occupant.  It  is  drawn  by  one 
horse.  As  yet  I  have  not  been  able  to 
persup.de  Mrs.  Park  to  try  one  with  me. 
Carriage  hire  is  so  reasonable  every- 
where that  we  take  advantage  of  it 
frequently.  I  wonder  why  prices  are 
so  high  in  our  country.  People  would 
use  carriages  instead  of  street  cars  if 
prices  were  the  same  as  in  Europe  and 
the  drivers  would  make  more  money,  I 
am  sure.  We  attended  morning  service 
at  the  little  Methodist  church  here,  and 
w>  heard  a  good  sermon.  Nearly  all 
the  hymns  were  familiar,  too,  which 
made  us  feel  quite  at  home.  A  large 
poster  was  hung  in  the  vestibule  giving 
notice  of  a  lecture  in  Dublin  on  Tues- 
day evening  by  Francis  E.  Clark,  the 
father  of  the  Christian  Endeavor  organ- 
ization. We  almost  laughed  out  in 
church  when  the  minister  made  the  fol- 
lowing announcement:  "Dr.  John  Park 
will  address  the  C.  E.  Society  tomorrow 
evening  on  'Life  as  Seen  in  America' 


170 Ireland 

during  his  sojourn  there  among  friends 
in  1903."  We  should  like  very  much 
to  hear  that  lecture,  just  to  know  what 
others  say  about  us. 

Did  I  tell  you  that  we  had  "scons" 
and  tea  at  Melrose?  We  did  not  aee  a 
single  Scotch  highlander  costume  until 
today  and,  of  course,  that  was  in  Ire- 
land. The  great  kindness  and  true  po- 
liteness of  the  Scotch  and  Irish  people 
are  very  noticeable  especially  among 
the  hotel  people.  Even  the  French  po- 
liteness cannot  equal  it.  We  are  made 
to  feel  that  we  are  conferring  a  favor 
every  time  we  ask  one.  We  will  be 
sorry  to  say  good-bye  to  them  in  the 
morning.  Just  one  more  letter  before 
we  sail  and  maybe  not  that  for  we  will 
be  exceedingly  busy. 


LONDON 

LETTER  NO.  23. 

DAMPFER  KAISER  WILHELM  n,  MONDAY, 
JUNE  6. 


\T,Y  one  more  day  and  we  are  due  in 
New  York!  This  part  of  our  trip  has 
passed  so  quickly,  although  a  good 
share  of  it  was  spent  in  our  berths.  The 
second  day  out  we  missed  two  meals  in 
the  dining  room  but  that  is  all;  how- 
ever, it  has  been  a  rough  trip  and  we 
have  felt  better  lying  down,  so  by  thia 
time  we  have  had  a  good  rest  and 
plenty  of  sleep.  This  is  a  fine  boat,  one 
of  the  largest,  I  believe,  and  we  have  a 
very  nice  room,  about  the  center  of  the 
boat  just  above  the  dining  room.  The 
steward  told  me  the  other  day  that  it 
was  a  $500  room— think  of  paying  $500 
for  six  days!  It  is  an  outside  room. 
Some  of  the  suites  of  rooms  above  us 
are  $2,000  and  $1,500.  I  do  not  know 
how  low  they  run.  All  of  the  ' '  Kur- 
fursters"  were  entitled  to  first-class  re- 
turn tickets.  Mrs.  Park  and  I  are  alone 
this  time  and  we  are  enjoying  it.  The 
last  day  we  were  in  London  it  rained 
and  I  had  all  my  shopping  to  do  for  I 
had  simply  run  out  of  clothes.  Mrs. 
Park  intended  to  spend  the  day  in 
sightseeing  but  we  w«nt  on  a  few  er- 
rands in  the  morning  and  she  got  so 
wet  and  she  had  to  return  to  the  hotel, 
order  a  fire  and  go  to  bed  while  her 
clothes  dried.  I  stayed  down  town  all 


172  Home-ward  Bound 

day  till  5  o'clock,  when  I  returned  to 
the  hotel  and  had  tea  then  started  out 
again  at  6  o'clock  to  Cook's  on  busi- 
ness, inquired  again  for  mail,  then  I 
went  on  down  town,  gathered  up  my 
purchases  that  required  altering,  just 
as  the  stores  were  closing  at  1  o'clock, 
returned  to  the  hotel  at  8:30,  ate  a  late 
dinner  and  then  packed.  So  that  is 
about  all  that  we  saw  of  London,  ex- 
cept a  two  hours'  drive  that  we  took 
early  in  the  morning,  stopping  only  to 
see  Westminster  Abbey.  Of  course,  I 
had  seen  some  of  London  before,  but 
was  so  sorry  it  rained,  on  Mrs.  Park's 
account;  however,  nothing  could  have 
hired  me  to  change  my  sailing  date  and 
I  am  sure  Mrs.  Park  felt  the  same. 
That  was  only  the  second  time  that 
rain  had  interfered  with  our  plans. 

The  next  morning  we  were  up  earl/, 
for  we  had  to  leave  the  Waterloo  sta- 
tion for  Southampton  at  9:25  on  the 
special  steamer  train  and  we  were  a 
little  anxious,  as  a  cab  strike  was  on, 
and  sure  enough  our  hotel  man  stood  at 
the  door  and  blew  his  whistle  for  near- 
ly ten  minutes  before  he  had  any  re- 
sponse and  then  we  were  fortune  te 
enough  to  get  a  double  carriage  and  1 
tell  you  we  and  our  baggage  filled  it; 
we  each  had  three  pieces.  As  it  was, 
we  had  no  time  to  spare  for  we  had  to 
chase  after  the  man  who  had  the  spc 
cial  tickets  before  we  could  get  the  re- 
duced fare  and  then  we  had  to  check 
our  luggage — yes,  actually,  they  check- 
ed it,  free,  and  we  did  not  have  to  see 
it  again  till  we  reached  our  state  room. 
However  I  looked  it  up  at  the  dock  to 
be  sure  that  it  was  all  there.  It  is  to 
be  hoped  that  the  good  work  will 
spread  on  that  continent.  It  wns  r^.i'y 
quite  a  shock  to  find  that  our  luggi>;e 


Svinday  at  Sea  173 

was  all  there  and  free  at  that.  When 
the  porter  told  us  '• "  the  lug- 

gage we  simply  stared  in  dumb  aston- 
ishment and  he  went  on  to  explain  tint 
he  would  give  us  a  number  and  paste 
one  on  our  grip  to  match  it.  As  we 
walked  in  a  dazed  condition  and  almost 
luggageless  to  our  compartment  we 
still  thought  that  we  were  dreaming  :.f 
the  distant  past. 

In  some  of  the  districts  of  London 
not  a  carriage  was  to  be  had  and  some 
of  the  "Kurfursters"  had  to  walk  for 
blocks  and  carry  their  luggage  in  order 
to  get  a  seat  in  a  'bus.  You  know  when 
every  seat  is  taken  in  a  'bus  they  will 
not  let  another  person  on.  Persons  fie 
not  allowed  to  stand  as  in  our  country; 
it  is  the  same  in  Paris  also.  But  we  had 
a  strange  bit  of  London  experience  be- 
fore we  pulled  out  of  the  station.  Al- 
though it  was  early  in  the  morning  it 
became  as  dark  as  night  and  •,< 
confusion  there  till  three  large  arc  elec- 
tric lights  were  turned  on.  And  that  is 
the  condition  in  which  we  left  London, 
in  darkness.  That  reminds  me  that  j: 
Edinburgh  at  10  o'clock  at  night  it  wa 
so  light  that  I  could  tell  the  time  t'roi>, 
a  clock  two  blocks  distant. 

Yesterday,  Sunday,  was  a  busy  day 
for  us,  for  at  the  eleventh  hour  the  Kur- 
furst  delegation  decided  to  have  morn- 
ing services  and  Sunday  school  in  the 
first  cabin  and  a  service  at  4:30  in  the 
second  cabin  uining  room.  Mrs.  P--rk 
was  the  Sunday  school  teacher,  elected 
unanimously,  and  we  had  Sunday  school 
in  the  children's  dining  room.  There 
are  about  sixty  "Kurfursters"  o-i 
board  and  about  half  of  them  were  in 
the  class— the  other  half  were  sick.  F 
sang  a  solo  at  both  morning  iin-l  ufl  T 
noon  church  services  and  also  a  duett 


174-  Declaration  Lists 

with  a  young  lady,  so  that  required 
practice,  of  course.  Dr.  Bell,  of  San 
Francisco,  preached  a  splendid  sermon 
in  the  morning  and  in  the  second  cabiii 
there  were  several  good  speakers  ant1  a 
song  service. 

Now,  I  think  it  is  about  time  to  tell 
you  that  I  am  seated  at  the  dining  ta- 
ble next  to  Mr.  Johnson,  my  good  doc- 
tor, and  it  was  just  a  "happen-stance" 
too.  At  the  first  meal  Mrs.  Park  and  I 
were  seated  among  strangers  but  at  its 
close  we  learned  that  the  "Kurfurst- 
ers"  were  all  together  in  a  corner  of 
the  dining  room  so  the  steward  kindly 
gave  us  new  numbers  at  one  of  those 
tables  and  we  had  hardly  taken  our 
seats  at  dinner  whei  along  came  Mr. 
Johnson  and  sat  down  beside  me.  We 
have  three  other  nice  gentlemen  at  our 
table,  and  the  four  of  them  have  kept 
us  laughing  at  every  meal,  especially  if 
we  were  inclined  to  paleness;  they 
saved  their  best  stories  for  such  occa- 
sions and  Mr.  Johnson,  doctor-like, 
watched  every  symptom.  Last  evening 
we  had  a  kind  of  a  reception  in  our 
room.  We  filled  the  couch,  the  lower 
berth,  the  doorway  and  the  floor.  We 
all  told  our  experiences  at  Jerusalem 
and  other  places  and  were  unaware  of 
the  lateness  of  the  hour  until  a  neigh- 
bor came  to  the  door  and  told  us  that 
a  sick  lady  near  was  not  especially  en- 
joying our  "  hilarity  "— she  didn't  just 
say  that  in  so  many  words  but  I  fear 
that  word  comes  near  expressing  it. 

Today  we  have  been  making  out  our 
"  declaration  "  lists  to  give  to  the  cus- 
tom officials  in  New  York,  but  it  all  de- 
pends upon  the  man  we  get.  I  know 
the  one  I  had  before  considered  all  my 
brass  as  trash  and  I  trust  that  T  may 
again  have  just  s*uch  an  unappreciative 


Captain's  Dinner  173 

individual,  for  my  trunk  is  simply  full 
of  brass,  copper,  and  green  jugs.  We 
will  surely  have  an  exhibition  of  our 
things  for  the  benefit  of  our  intimate 
friends,  and  let  not  Mr.  Park  hope  for 
better  things,  for  his  wife  has  brass 
too  (and  really,  come  to  think  of  it,  I 
believe  she  has  acquired  some  in  anoth- 
er sense  aljo,  but  not  enough  to  cause 
alarm). 

How  good  it  did  seem  to  have  U.  S. 
coin  again;  when  the  purser  gave  me 
in  change  a  handful  of  quarters,  dimes 
and  nickles,  for  the  first  time  in  my 
life  I  took  real  delight  in  the  mere  sight 
of  money  and  T  .just  held  it  in  my  hand 
and  looked  at  it.  T  smiled  and  the 
purser  smiled  too;  he  understood. 

The  captain's  dinner  this  evening  was 
n  very  grand  affair.  It  is  the  custom,  on 
some  lines  at  least,  to  give  a  Captain 's 
dinner  the  last  night  at  sea,  and  the 
dinner  this  evening  was  certainly  splen- 
did. The  dining  room  was  docorated 
in  wide  heavy  sashes  of  red,  white  and 
blue  moire  silk  and  garlands  of  artifi- 
cial autumn  leaves;  each  table,  too, 
wag  beautifully  decorated  with  a  cen- 
terpiece made  of  macaroons  and  filled 
with  flags,  bon-bons,  etc.  The  dinner 
was  similar  to  the  one  we  had  on  the 
Kurfurst  until  we  came  to  the  ice- 
cream course  when  the  lights  were  sud- 
denly turned  out.  Just  then  the  or- 
chestra began  to  play  a  march  and  two 
large  W's  (for  Kaiser  Wilhelm)  one  at 
either  side  of  the  stairway,  blazed  forth 
in  red  electric  lights  and  at  the  same 
time  little  miniature  light-houses  all 
over  the  dining  room  were  illuminated. 
Then  came  the  procession  of  waiters, 
headed  by  the  young  boys  in  uniform 
and  sashes,  every  waiter  carrying  a 
Japanese  lantern,  balloon-shaped  and 


176  Captain's  Dinner 

held  high,  except  about  every  third  one 
who  carried  a  silver  tray  in  the  center 
of  which  was  a  white  or  pink  hollow 
block  of  ice,  with  a  candle  inside  and 
arranged  around  it  were  little  Japanese 
ladies  of  ice-cream,  carrying  parasols. 
This  course  was  called  on  our  menu 
card  "transparent  ice  cream."  The 
waiters  marched  around  the  dining 
room  several  times,  about  a  hundred  of 
them,  T  should  guess,  then  separated  for 
their  tables.  It  was  a  very  pretty  sight. 
The  evening  wound  up  with  a  concert 
given  by  the  orchestra  assisted  by  a 
violinist  and  a  reader  from  New  York, 
and  that  wag  all  very  good.  There  was 
also  another  reader,  who  was  so  poor 
that  she  broke  up  the  concert,  for  ev- 
erybody left.  She  asked  to  be  placed 
on  the  program,  presenting  photographs 
of  herself  also  testimonials. 

We  expect  to  have  only  two  more 
meals  on  this  fine  old  ship;  we  have 
certainly  enjoyed  our  voyage  and  it  has 
seemed  very  short.  We  will  soon  reach 
the  shores  of  our  beloved  country,  never 
more  dear,  and  then  this,  the  most  en- 
joyable trip  of  my  life,  will  be  all  in 
the  past. 

New  York,  June  12.— I  must  tell 
you  of  my  final  experience  in 
getting  my  trunk  and  souvenirs 
which  I  had  sent  ahead  by  the  Kurfurst 
to  be  stored  in  bond  in  New  York. 
When  we  landed  last  Tuesday  we  had 
no  difficulty  with  our  luggage  at  all, 
as  we  had  a  very  courteous  customs  of- 
ficial and  the  examining  ordeal  was 
soon  over  with,  and  no  duty  to  pay. 

trtieile  met  me  at  the  dock  and  when 
we  finished  with  the  officer  we  crossed 
over  to  the  city,  and  Mrs.  Park  went 
to  Brooklyn  with  her  friends.  Wed- 


Cxiatom*  Officers.  177 

nosday  morning  we  met  by  appoint- 
ment on  lower  Broadway  to  gee  about 
getting  our  trunks  out  of  storage,  only 
to  find  that  they  had  been  removed 
just  two  days  before,  and  were  now 
in  the  handa  of  the  customs  appraisers, 
and  that  we  could  not  pet  them  for  a 
week  or  ten  days.  This  was  bad  news 
for  we  needed  our  clothing.  We  then 
had  to  sro  to  a  broker  on  Broadway 
(Wells  Fargo  &  Co.)  and  leave  the 
matter  in  their  hands,  as  there  are  cer- 
tain legal  forma  necessary  and  much 
time  and  worry  can  be  saved  by  en- 
gaging a  broker  to  represent  one.  To 
my  agreeable  surprise,  Tom  'phoned  me 
on  Friday  morning  to  come  down  to 
the  appraisers  office  on  Christopher 
street.  T  found  the  man  he  told  me  to 
ask  for,  and  T  trembled  in  his  presence, 
for  the  sight  that  greeted  me  in  that 
room  was  enough  to  un-nerve  any  pil- 
grim. OHve  wood  from  Jerusalem  Ori- 
ental rugs,  brass,  etc.,  were  emptied 
out  of  the  trunks  all  over  the  floor,  and 
not  by  the  owners  either,  Tom  had 
caught  them  just  in  time,  they  had  not 
yet  opened  my  trunk,  and  I  had  a  full 
list  with  price  of  everything  my  trunk 
contained,  so  my  man  sat  down  beside 
me  and  we  went  over  it  together.  He 
had  to  believe  me  for  T  had  my  little 
account  book  to  prove  that  mv  list  was 
right.  Everything  went  smoothly  until 
we  reached  the  rug,  and  when  T  could 
not  tell  him  the  size  of  it  he  though 
he  would  have  to  unpack  it.  T  told  him 
that  it  was  in  the  very  bottom  of  the 
trunk,  so  then  he  told  me  to  guess  at 
the  size.  We  settled  on  3x5  (which 
proves  to  be  the  exact  size)  and  then 
he  ordered  my  trunk  clciso<l  .-md  lorkol. 
and  I  was  so  thankful  for  not  a  tiling 
was  touched.  My  troubles  were  not 


1 7ft  Customs  Officers. 

yet  over  however,  for  he  then  ordered 
me  to  go  to  my  brokers  and  have  them 
send  their  man  over  to  the  custom 
house  on  Wall  street  to  meet  the  ap- 
praisers messenger  with  the  official  re- 
port on  my  trunk.  Wells  Fargo 's  man 
was  already  there,  so  I  had  to  go  over 
alone  and  when  the  messenger  arrived 
a  few  moments  later,  I  found  my  name 
was  not  in  hia  list),  so  had  to  wait  an 
hour  and  a  half  for  the  next  messenger. 
I  went  out  to  lunch  and  when  I  return- 
ed my  messenger  had  arrived.  He  warn- 
ed me  that  according  to  law  every  ar- 
ticle in  my  trunk  was  dutiable,  as  the 
trunk  was  now  in  the  government's 
hinds  and  came  under  the  regular  im- 
porting laws,  but  there  was  just  one 
man  WHO  could  waive  the  duty  and  we 
were  now  on  the  way  to  his  office.  I 
felt  pretty  nervous  when  that  gentle- 
man came  into  the  office  after  we  were 
seated.  He  made  me  feel  very  com- 
fortable (?)  by  telling  me  that  the 
only  "Kurfurster"  ahead  of  me  had  to 
pay  $75  duty.  However,  after  what 
soemed  an  awfully  long  time,  and  all 
questions  had  been  satisfactorily  an- 
swered, he  signed  the  paper,  after 
which  it  was  taken  to  another  official 
for  final  signature,  and  all  was  over 
and  no  duty  to  pay.  My  express  and 
brokerage  fees  were  $3.50. 

Wednesday  morning  after  I  met  Mrs. 
Park  and  we  had  attended  to  our 
trunks  we  separated  (a  most  "tender 
and  touchin'"  ordeal)  to  meet  later 
on  at  home  in  Salem,  still  the  dearest 
spot  on  earth  to  us. 

MYEA  A.  WIGGINS. 


